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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/09/2021 in Posts

  1. We recently had a customer who converted to a Multi Tune and after converting the vehicle the cruise control would just flash (on the dash) when trying to engage cruise control. The way to get it to not "flash" was to start the car with the brake on. Here is an extract from the workshop manual that states they should all do this: Now this is not what the original car did but resetting it back to stock and this behaviour was still happening. The resolution for this is to reset auF2648 back to the stock value. We found it had been changed from 3 which works on a MK1 to a 1 which
    3 points
  2. The first revision is being reviewed at the moment. Still a few months off but we will let everyone know when it is available. I would say its over the halfway complete mark now though.
    2 points
  3. Mitch I believe I've been talking to your mate a about your car. Multi tune white FG yeah? If so you'll need the workshop version of pcmtec to licence the multi tune OS. Inbox me if need be bud.
    1 point
  4. Decel doesn't matter, so just leave it as is and don't worry about it.
    1 point
  5. I've got an auto and use rolling antilag all the time. I use it to launch the car too. I don't use a rev limiter at all, I use -20 timing in the launch tune after the rpm I want it to activate ie; 2250rpm onwards, for launching on a stock converter, and set the entire fuel map in the launch tune to 0.75 lambda. I've set my desired boost to 17psi and the wg table to whatever will be close to 17psi. It will cut the boost after 17psi according the the over/underboost settings so either import them to the launch tune or adjust your launch tune desired boost accordingly. It can push
    1 point
  6. That is a manual in neutral. It is not going to work the same in an auto or if you are in gear doing a rolling launch.
    1 point
  7. Depends on the cams. Basically anywhere you are getting aircharge going out the exhaust making the airflow model non linear. The only way you will know is via datalogging and seeing how the standard ve model falls over with large overlap.
    1 point
  8. It should be linear once on boost. You only need to manipulate it in the vac zone. Everything below 101 kpa or 14.7psi is off boost.
    1 point
  9. Doesn't a turbo flapper mod compensate / correct for this by smoothing out the boost and ironing out random peaks? Short of that, if it's knocking anywhere in the range, isn't that something you can just tune out by pulling timing? Many people run factory NA injectors (and fuel pump) at the same rwkw levels you are chasing without any problems. Also many guys run 7 - 9 pounds no problems. I've seen people complete the conversion, but then be unable to start and run properly with the 4 bar map sensor installed. They had to re-fit the stock one and cruise to a tune shop. I must
    1 point
  10. I highly recommend checking these guys out for some paid training if you want to learn more to start following this stuff as injectors are just the start of it, it gets more complicated as you go in deeper. We will also be offering training material this year and hopefully an in person training course. This will be via DSR Performance in VIC https://calibratedsuccess.com/ https://thetuningschool.com/
    1 point
  11. So another update... This morning I hooked up a 35psi boost gauge and with the desired boost at 25, it was running over 35psi. With the desired boost at 26 it went over 40psi. I came home, removed the signal pickup for the knock box from the boost sensor signal wire and it seemed to fix it. It was a needle pickup so maybe it had earthed out on something? Just by removing that, the car went back down to 25psi, albiet with funky wg control. A few runs up and down the road to fix the wg duty etc and it seems to run 25psi most of the way up. Since I had tuned it and scaled the
    1 point
  12. You're asking for a free tune here. No please, no interaction, no punctuation, all caps and your other posts aren't much better. There is an entire farken thread about it that you're posting in. Learn some forum etiquette and it'll take you a long way buddy.
    1 point
  13. On drag cars or on the dyno depending on your gearing and rpm limit, you may find a speed limit is occurring. There are two methods to disable the speed limit. Method 1 (maximum speed of 255 kph) For standard gearing and the 6 cylinder, this is usually sufficient. For the V8s spinning to 7-7.5k, you may need method 2. This method assumes the VID block is enabled (it is by default). auF0389 Activate/Deactivate VID Block Parameters for Final Drive/Tire etc = Enabled If the VID block is enabled the following scalar is used to determine the speed limit. Speed_lim
    1 point
  14. When you do an engine swap and leave the NA ABS module (or vice versa) and have a turbo calibration in the PCM you will normally get a permanent ABS/DSC fault. If this occurs I have a theory on a possible way to fix it without swapping or reprogramming the ABS module. This is not tested or verified, but it is worth experimenting with. There are two configuration words which are sent via canbus to the ABS module. auF2531 Encode calibration of engine configuration This flag is broken down into the following bits Upper Half Byte 0x10 = NA 0x20 = Turbo Charged
    1 point
  15. ok so i hit the trans button a few times, i have done this before but this time my computer was actually online...it connected and downloaded ZF-DMRs then they appeared. so it seems i can see the ZF stuff now. but does bring about my new issue. it seems to be ignoring the 1 to 2nd change...even at the lowest of throttle it wont go into 2nd untill its over 2krpm. the rest seem to work when you change them. strange
    0 points
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