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That’s ok if the hardware isn’t ABU-212 or ABU-242. They don’t have the IO for the clutch switch so cruise will never work.

Not a problem mate & whilst I don't mind a beer, I don't expect anything. Have a beer for me

I followed the wiring from the shifter into the passenger footwell and there is continuity after the grey plug that goes into the main wiring harnesses. There is no continuity from the interior plug into the main wiring harness plug under the bonnet. I ran some speaker wire from the plug in the footwell into the plug under the bonnet and it upshifts. Obviously the break is somewhere under the dash or in the engine bay. I should have investigated this while the engine was out 2 weeks ago but I didn't. I'm just going to run another piece of wire for now, be farked digging into the wiring when there is so much stuff in the way. Thanks for the help Bill, pm me your address if you want some beer.

The wiring from the ZF6 connector goes to the C20 connector which is the large main engine wiring loom connector, passenger side of the engine. It's not uncommon to find broken wires here or near the ZF connector. Image is FG but the wiring location is the same. Wire colours may differ From the C20 connector, it goes to a connector in the passenger footwell. It's also not uncommon to find this section of wiring loom has rubbed through on the aluminium AC pipe near the passenger shock tower. If water has made it into these connectors, there'll be corrosion on the connector pins. It's rare to find any broken wires in the cab, but it's possible. The territory manual I have for SY doesn't have wiring diagrams for the ZF6, only BTR so is not useful. The FG manual shows the ute wiring loom goes directly from the passenger footwell to the shifter whereas the sedan shows an additional connector beside the passenger seat that may be accessible if the foot scuff plate is removed. I wouldn't go searching for this one unless there was an issue between the footwell & shifter. I've run out of time to get more images, but it gives you a starting point.

Thanks mate, I'll check it later when I get a chance.

Check continuity between tip+ at the shifter & pin 5 at the TCM connector. Tip- is pin4. Check the pin isn't pushed back in the ZF connector & the TCM pin isn't damaged. Wiring damage near the connector is possible too. Sorry for the poor quality wiring diagram. I had to zoom out further than I wanted before being able to snip the image.

Just realized there was a previous post about xspurt, can't believe i didn't see it. Thanks Bill for the below 🙂

Yeah thanks @Plumbs, I will have a play with this over the weekend. Funny you mention Bathurst, I grew up in that area. If you ever get a chance to go for a cruise I recommend going from Lithgow out past Lake Lyell and then west along the Tarana Rd, some great corners and also a quiet dead straight bit that is almost 3km long I remember going out to the pine forest out near Oberon and stealing Christmas trees with my Dad in his XF ute, three speed auto column shift with a bench seat. I guess that the transmission in that thing was the father to our BTRs.

Awesome, Thanks Plumbs

I solved the issue by populating the table as attached. I can't very well explain why, but this is what it took to make it follow the commanded downshift speeds.

Hi Mate , the 0 Collum is the oil temp correction. So the first 2 collums are just stock . Then I just played with it from there . But I got it shifting fast enough without breaking the suspension or our necks . More positive numbers equals more slip . More negative numbers means quicker shifts. From what I have seen . ( I’m no expert lol). my opinion, even if you have a built box , you will still destroy it just as quick especially Na turbo conversion strategy as it’s tuned for comfort not 800 foot pounds and 400 kws. So getting the above right between neck snapping and comfort is important. Like I said above . If we could have the s5 global tied into driver demand/ load v load retard on the gear changes , be a perfect world . Mucking with the s5 globals seems to be a compromise. bear in mind my wife’s daily ( which I’m barely allowed to drive as just loves it so much!) is living on 10 psi from my dyno butt says depending on outside air temp . Is 380 rwhp in 35 deg ish to what feels like 450 in the really cold winters of about 4 deg c (10 psi e 10) ! The pcm really wacks in the timing and 15 psi is just nuts ! I’m scared of breaking the drive line not the motor. Motor is barely breaking a sweat ! I just spent nearly 6 k rebuilding the rear end due to the torque and also the nick snapping gear changes. So be warned. But the build has far exceeded all my expectations and my Wife loves it and the big block like v8 power/ torque combined with the 10-11 lts / 100 km fuel economy. It was a very hard road at first making mistakes and being upped by a worried wife eg are wasting lots of money and end up failing! But we got there ! It’s an awesome car that’s drives beautifully now ! Ps we also drove it Bathurst last year fully loaded even with firewood for camping ! Love it !

^^^Do this so you understand what is happening. It will also explain why you can't feel a difference, after you have a think about it.

Putting 8000 in the shift lock table will keep the converter unlocked for most of the gears. That value will still let the converter lock up at 7000rpm in 5th and 5500rpm in 6th, so on the off chance you will be actually going this fast and want the converter unlocked still, you should use a lightly higher number. An OSS of 8000 is 312kph in a awd zf territory, so unlikely it will need a higher number than that. Click on the vehicle speed tab in the unit converter, then you can adjust the values to see how different OSS numbers affect when the lockup comes on in regard to RPM etc.

Just an update, I got the s5 globals well …. Perfect ! After a lot of trial and error. I probably should post a pick of my s5 table ? When I get time if people want me too?

High numbers.

Hi Mate , gone back to normal life now plumbing etc ! I don’t want to comment as I’m now quite rusty! Would take time to brush up to reply! Sorry 😞. But the btr box is doing everything it should when changing under boost and is as perfect as I can get it . Also the motor is still going strong . Drove it to Airlie Beech last year . Regards Graham.

Hey man I'm doing a manual conversion on my ba xr6 and was wondering what parameters you changed to get it to drive out of limp home mode?

I'm pretty sure I've figured this out. What I learned is that the downshift tables aren't treated the same in the logic in various drive modes. I was able to get the downshift speeds vs pedal position to do what I want but the values needed in the base table are drastically different from reality. I have to use much lower OSS values to get the desired shift points.

There are several ways to change tune and ethanol select in the Ford 15+ family (Mustang/F150/Explorer etc) with the PCMTEC MultiTune Custom Operating System. With the engine off. Accessories on (You will see a dash sweep, and then the previously selected tune/blend content, note you do not have to wait for this to finish) Engine off Cruise control on (press once) Press Cancel (now in tune edit mode) Press +/- to go from 1000 rpm, 2000, 3000, 4000 (base tune, tune 2, tune 3, tune 4) Press Cancel (now in ethanol/blend select if you have it enabled) Press +/- and you will see the speedo change from 0-100 (or 85 depending on your max value). Press cancel again to return to tune edit mode or press cruise on/off to exit edit mode. At any time wait 10 seconds (configurable via auF100029) for it to time out, or press cruise control off to exit edit mode. All adjustments are made immediately. With the engine running. Accessories on (You will see a dash sweep, and then the previously selected tune/blend content, note you do not have to wait for this to finish) Engine on Cruise control off (press once) - Note this is so that your cruise control still functions as per factory when the engine is running Press Cancel (now in tune edit mode) Press +/- to go from 1000 rpm, 2000, 3000, 4000 (base tune, tune 2, tune 3, tune 4) Press Cancel (will exit tune select mode) At any time wait 10 seconds (configurable via auF100029) for it to time out, or press cancel/cruise control on to exit edit mode. All adjustments are made immediately. Adjustable launch rpm setpoint For launch control adjustment (engine can be running or not running) select tune 1 (1000 rpm) press - (now in rpm select) Now press +/- to adjust the variable RPM launch setpoint (if it is enabled). Press Cancel to get back to tune select mode and re-select the tune you want. Now if you want to be able to trim your blend/fuel whilst the engine is running we have a timer that allows you to do so. Previously this was 60 seconds by default (it is now 0.5 seconds), this allows you to dial in user flex and look at short term fuel trims if you are not confident on what is in the tank. During this time frame you follow the "engine off procedure". As this is not intuitive for most people (especially as most customers do not require this) we have since changed the timer to 0.5 seconds by default effectively disabling it by default. If you want to re-enable this functionality (perhaps for demonstration purposes) you can reconfigure these timers to all be larger. Eg: auF100029 Maximum time to leave the RPM displayed after last tune change with engine running This is how long the tune/blend ratio is displayed before it times out and exits. Default is 10 seconds. auF100034 Maximum allowed time to change tune and fuel after the engine is running This is how long you can use the "Engine off" procedure with the engine running to dial in user adjustable ethanol content. Default is 0.5 seconds Note: If you do not want the tune to change immediately when selecting it you can set the following scalar to 1. This will then only change the tune when tune edit mode is exited. This may be desirable if you have something in tune tune 4 but do not want to tune 3 to activate momentarily whilst you scroll through the tunes to select it. auF100048 Confirm Tune On Exit (default 0) Launch Control Engine on Press and hold the cruise on/off button. This will activate the momentary launch control map whilst the cruise control button is held down. When it is released it will revert back to the map previously selected. If you have variable RPM launch control enabled it will also activate the variable RPM launch setpoint. By default this is soft rpm limit however it can be changed via various methods to be a hard cut or our soon to be released anti-lag spark retard/spark cut As the launch map is simply a momentary map enable slot it can be used for anything. In turbo cars we find it most commonly used for rolling antilag or overboost (boost scramble). Eg you set up a retarded spark timing table in this map that pulls timing drastically to assist in turbo spool, usually dumping fuel, changing VCT timing etc. Or simply make it a copy of the "full boost" map and allow full boost to be achieved whilst the button is held down and only then. For non turbo cars or cars that are drag raced and need a consistent launch, that is when we use the variable RPM launch control where it will hold the RPM at a variable setpoint (like the factory setup but without all the button pressing to enable it). In a manual car the factory launch control may be sufficient and not necessary. Simply using the rolling anti lag setup is a very effective "launch control" to get off the line with maximum boost, especially on cars with larger turbos that need assistance. There are some guides for the Ford Falcon here, you can use similar principles with the maximum cylinder pressure timing map in the ecoboost motors. In automatic cars setting up the anti lag with a spark hole as described in the guide above (depending on how far the standard stall converter will slip) is a great use. You can see several videos of it in action. We have seen a 4L turbo 6 with a GT3582 make 27psi in neutral with this technique. Note There are many other Custom OS features that can be configured under the CustomOS System Configuration -> CustomOS Cluster Configuration navigation tree. These allow you to adjust debounce timers to tweak how long the cruise control buttons have to be pressed, how many rpm/kph/mph each step is and min/max limits for various functions.

PCMTec got me sorted on this as it was the Anti Tamper in the Whipple OS that was causing the issue. After them supplying a fix for it I was able to re-assemble the tune with the CustomOS for CAN flexfuel and everything worked out great. Thanks again

Custom Operating System training videos are now available. There will soon be a written guide to accompany these videos.

It's part of what a community is about, helping each other.

I looked at your log and it shows you are out of injector. It could be that you're out of pump and have kept adding fuel into the SD tables which has maxed out the injectors. Depending on which parts you have on hand will decide what you do. You should verify the fuel pressure as it will tell you whether the pump is out. If the pump is fine you need more injector, if the pump is out you need a better pump. If the problem persists after replacing a pump that is out, you need more injector. To verify fuel pressure you can chuck a fitting into the fuel feed, if your car is all stock then perhaps between the fuel filter and the steel pipe or even in the quick connect fitting to the fuel rail. You could run the return line into a jerry can and if it stops coming out when the car is going flat out on the dyno, it's safe to say the pump is out. There are more ways to do it, that's just a couple of ideas. Also you should be targeting around 13:1 or possibly mid 13s for na on E85, same applies to 98, you will be losing heaps of power running it into the 11s. Where it makes the most power is where you set it. You don't keep it rich for safety, that only applies to turbo cars. To keep things safe, you set the timing where it should be to prevent knock, which isn't applicable with na and E85. Even a 1000+hp turbo car will want to run around 12.3:1 on E85. I looked at your timing curve and it is more suited to 98 octane. With E85 you can add timing until it stops making power. You might find the opposite happens at very low rpm, it might actually prefer a bit less than stock. For this reason you don't just add a global 6 degrees, although you certainly could. Anyhow there's something to think about, check the fuel filter too/first, as they tend to block up after a couple of days when you first switch over to E85.

Yep, I'm tuning the BTR in my 2007 SY Territory which I've just installed a built FG turbo engine into. Diff ratio has been changed from 3.73 to 3.23. You need to change the axle ratio in the axle table, however this won't automatically correct the gear changes. In the shift/lock schedule you also need to scale the transmission shift points. You'll need to reduce the table by ~ 0.85 and see test drive to see. A word of advice. The performance shift table is not the performance shift table. Try adjusting either of the Shift Schedule Towing/Towing Cruise Mode tables to adjust the transmission when in SSS mode. Did you know the PCM for the BTR can also allow the engine to make the 'farting' noise during gearshift? Having reviewed a lot of A4 tunes from various places it's no wonder the BTR transmissions had such a high failure rate. Their programming was completely wrong.

Some testing for some ear candy. 45deg overlap sounds mint, but still cannot get the revs to drop nicely when coming to a stop in drive GOPR0153_1543638459562_high_1.mp4