Leaderboard

Finally worked out what the lockup columns mean. Couple of assumptions. Steady state driving, and unlock values are lower than the values in the lock area. Case 1, unlocked, accelerating If already unlocked, the M lock column is the actual OSS speed that the converter will start to apply. Under light load it will reduce slip to 0 not long after. Under heavy load it will modulate pressure to have the TCC gradually locked up by the time the OSS gets to the value in the H column. Quite smart to look ahead like it does. Case 2, locked in 2nd, accelerating, shift to 3rd The value in the L column interacts with the previous gear. For example if the 2-3 shift is carried out at 1000 OSS and we are in second gear locked up and the value in the 3L column is 1200, the TCC will unlock after the shift to 3rd then re-lock when the 3M OSS value is hit. If the 3L column is 800 the TCC will remain locked throughout the shift. Leaning towards the conclusion that we need to have the L column matching or lower than the respective shift OSS. A bit tricky with all the shift tables. But something to keep in mind if modifying shift points, the L column in the TCC schedule may need to be adjusted as well. If this is set wrong it can cause the impression of a shift flare. The improper TCC settings will show on the log as; TCC locked, shift & partial or full unlock, immediately lock. I'm thinking out the loud, the trick with the TCC settings is getting the converter to flash up to help build boost, then when the boost is coming up, get the TCC to start its lock progression ultimately ending with it fully locked before peak torque to help make it live a little longer. This will take a combination of the lock and unlock settings to not upset the cruising areas of the TCC table so it can remain locked up for economy.

A bit off topic but some interesting info. The new euro standards (In china they are already doing this) will require lambda 1.0 at ALL times. This includes extended WOT power runs, you cannot rely on enrichment for power anymore in china, same will happen in the US and Europe soon. One benefit of this is it will mean easy power gains for the aftermarket but it does also prove it can be done. From the calibrator I was speaking to they said the engine generates about 10% more heat at lambda than your typical WOT enriched cooling lambda, coupled with a particulate filter (like the diesel ones) that they are now running in china they had to do a few things for reliability. Bigger radiator, more cooling passages around the cylinder walls, higher temp valves and a different catalytic converter design. They also have a lot of cooling failsafes to pull the throttle back etc to stop things melting.

Yes it's highly recommended to make the car go open loop and rich much sooner with more boost. Otherwise you can get even 10psi at part throttle if you are towing and be running 1.0 lambda.

Direct injection rather than port injection helps with cylinder temps too.

Yep they can make a couple of hundred rwkw at 14.7:1 afr if you don't adjust it. If the timing is safe it won't detonate but it will introduce a lot of heat into the combustion chamber and surrounding areas. If you were towing for a long time with those unfavourable conditions, you would likely destroy your cat, o2 sensor and anything else that is close to the exhaust, which will be glowing red after a while.

If the car has E85/98 multiple fuel tunes that are switched via the cruise control, he simply need to change the selected fuel back before starting the car, this is remembered unless the battery is disconnected for a period of time which I imagine they would have disconnected when doing the welding. There is a video showing the process here Steps are, ignition on engine not running, turn on cruise control. Press resume, press + and speedo will flick to 85kph (e85), press - and it will flick back to 0 (e0/98) to select the correct fuel. Press resume again then press +/- to select the tune, this depends on what the tuner has set up, usually its low boost, boost by gear, high boost, ghost cam etc.

Smoke test the intake for leaks. What is your idle spark? If its below ~10 degrees you likely have an intake leak which would explain your rev hang etc and also your deadspot (no timing). Check torque sources to make sure you aren't in a limp mode or torque reduction mode. Check DTCs Check fuel pressure.

Check your email

If you are pegging your tmap you will be slightly lean even if the wideband doesn't show it, there is no doubt about it. To use the switch over logic you simply install a 4 bar boost sensor, we recommend Ti Performance and Independent Motorsport as they will both supply you with offset + slope values so you don't have to stuff around calibrating it. The IAP going to 29.8 is because it would have gone into failure mode (29.8 is 101kpa eg atmospheric). We HIGHLY recommend you leave the standard overboost logic so that if this does occur the vehicle goes into a limp mode or at least pulls wastegate duty cycle. This may save your engine if you have a boost control failure.

The knock sensors pick up false knock and also miss real knock. Use it for safety only, do not attempt to tune MBT with them. You need a professional knock setup to do that. Things like broken engine mounts, lose intercooler pipes banging on the motor etc can all cause false knock. Log the sensors against each cyl individually to see if it's just one sensor!/cyl, if it is you could have a faulty injector etc.

Direct injection means you can spray at tdc as well which is great for avoiding detonation.

Ok update . After backing off timing in the .8 to 1.0 to force the pedal more towards the floor . To force the desired lamda under partial boost . so under 3-6 psi , AF would be 14.3 at about 25 % peddle. Move peddle a fly spec more and then it would go to about 11.8 which was what I was commanding . I was worried about burning out exhaust valves ect ! I found aufo476 which is the fuel base TPs Axis . Disclaimer I’m learning so I don’t know how to say it correctly but I get the gist of it . So for the pros I may get things jumbled. So see how I go ? This fuel base tps seems to be the tps calibration . In the Na tps axis it’s totally in my opinion, incorrect for boost as Ad count doesn’t even come in till 300! And cell 3 was only being read ( if I’m correct!) So boost was spooling but only around stoic AF . Ok for NA but not for boost . so I looked up the xr6t stock file and just copied. well hey presto problem fixed ! I’ve now put timing back in below boost and a little bit above . So hope this helps !

Hi All , been mucking with my Wife’s Territory. I’ve got it tuned to 14 psi . Pretty much the limit of the NA btr box with 365 k on the box . Motor has 10 k on on it after rebuild . I was watching Bobby McBoost utube Chanel and he had his car set to retarted spark on decel and made some cool backfires ! so I wanted to do the same on my test mule , aka the Wife’s shopping trolley! Bit of a recap . So I’m a plumber, built a turbo Barra in my shed with 2 Nd hand rods and turbo pistons (3r 23 aa rods). I hand ported an fg head with Fg cams , the usual cam springs , head studs and oil gears . Stuffed the first build with ring gaps being cut wrong . Learnt how to do it properly and rebuilt again! Now , 20 thou top ring , 22 thou bottom ring . 2nd time used a proper cutter and only cut one side ( watch tube !) . 1000 cc injectors into an fg NA manifold. Ok so I flashed pretty much -5 on decel and got some nice crackles on 98 and a few pops , which be quite interesting at night ! Going to go another-5 to see what happens and that will do . As you reportedly can blow mufflers apart ! So easy does it ! Bobby bloke , mentioned also about delaying fuel cutoff in fuel cut costing? I haven’t worked that one out yet . So if anyone knows , please chime in ! regards Graham. Ps so wrapped with my tune . Have tuned the btr box and have it just sweet and just getting the fuelling right has taken must be nearly 50 flashes ( including gearbox) . Something that is just impossible in a 2 hour tuning session. Especially for an odd bod Na conversion. The b series Na pcm is sort of at its limit at 14-16 pound with the limited 1.2 timing table mho.

Yes it does as its currently listed under development. It will get categorised in 2.x hopefully!

My factory t56 ba mk2 also only has 5 gears defined but compared to a 5 speed manual strategy the 5th gear min/max was a bit bigger so cruise control thinks gear 5/6 is just in gear 5

It doesn't affect the VCT settings AFAIK. BF na & XR6T have independent VCT & use the same auF12646 settings as BA na & XR6T. BF F6 uses the same setting as BA F6.

The auF12646 "OIL PRES LO OPEN Switch" is a parameter that's set to 0 if you're using an F6 cluster or set to 1 for na & XR6 turbo. If you have the wrong setting, or simply swap the cluster for the wrong type, the oil light will stay on.

Also for customers who need support ASAP the fastest way to get in contact with us is via our support portal. We have 5+ people who get notified when a ticket comes in so we can action it as soon as possible. https://www.pcmtec.com/contactus

The welding bit is what he should be worried about.

Thanks very much for that incredible info. Much appreciated ROLAND

This is correct, assuming injectors are stock and the car has no modifications that would affect VE (eg standard turbo, standard camshafts) then you should be able to simply change the commanded lambda to affect the fueling. If you have started modifying things and you find the commanded lambda does not match the measured lambda via your wideband. Then you need to start modifying the fueling (injector slopes) and airflow (speed density) models. If you have modified the vehicle then read the following forum threads. Injector slope scaling: Speed Density Open Loop / Closed Loop Fueling You need to be aware that these engines only have closed loop fueling at stoichmetric 1.0 lambda. Eg at idle/cruise. Outside of these conditions the engine runs open loop. That means if anything changes (eg fuel pump runs out of flow, you change the VE of the engine eg camshafts ) the car will no longer run the commanded AFR and you will need to correct the mechanical issue or modify the appropriate model in the software (eg injector fueling model or airflow speed density model). If you are a workshop then we can point you in the direction of someone who can provide paid training. Otherwise the best way is to post on the forums and read all the HOWTO Guides. I also recommend purchasing a wideband and an analog input cable so you can datalog your actual AFR vs your commanded AFR. Once you have tested this on the street you need a dyno to test it safely at wide open throttle. There are many dyno operators who will hire out there dyno at a per hour rate, there are even some mobile dyno operators who will come to you.

It is similar in that it is a key challenge exchange, but that is about it. What is your goal? Depending on what it is I might be able to point you in the right direction time permitting. There is a lot of extra stuff to stop replay attacks, it also performs some kind of checksum on the responses. The actual alg looks similar in that it is some kind of XOR type of encryption. It looks like a multi part exchange that has a few more steps than the security unlock. We have disassembled the PCM to a high level, but none of the other modules. So to fully emulate it you'd need to do the BCM as well. But I can get some ideas about what the PCM side is doing from the work we have done to date.

Thanks for updating us all. The info you’ve provided is very thorough & will no doubt save a few headaches for others 👍🏼

another good point for ZF conversions is the reverse lights, if you dont have them connected the trans selector will flash on the dash and presumably be in error mode, as it produces a TCM error code. P1910 or p1911 or p1912 trans has two wires for reverse lights, both connect to the activation point on the relay. if your like me and were in a rush, you can simply wire in a resistor and it will think its connected.

Allright that was a bit of a rollercoaster, but a big shoutout to everyone trying to help me in PM (Bill, Yoda, Nigel). Played with a lot of ZF settings that basically had no affect on the issue. The logs show the shift prevention active and eventually found the brake flag was doing the same thing as the ESP flag. Originally tried to do silly things like reduce the max esp time and so such, but it didn't change anything. The car had no brake switch connected and it was turned off in the PCM. In forscacan the brake log actually shows as off... but the ZF seems to do its own thing, possibly in a brake light failure mode? I stupidly tried to test the brake light, by turning it on and grounding out the wire and feeding it power - forscan just allways showed it on. Infact when the brake switch was turned on in the pcm forscan would allways show brake ON. that sorta wasted some time. Nigel basically told me to wire up the brake switch correctly, as it will do sanity checks and expect Ground and +12 inputs. So after wiring in the nissan brake switch, forscan was still showing BOO:ON but the ZF log would mimic the brake pedal with the brake flag. its worth noting here you cannot use the cruse control brake and brake switches tied together as they get reversed inputs and the cruse has a small dead zone - so you need to change to a falcon brake switch. With the ZF seeing brake, the holding 1st gear issue was gone and it changed gears as expected.

These tables here. Enter a more negative torque reduction number and that will increase the torque reduction/fart when the shift occurs. Make sure you are using the correct table for the shift, you can log the engine torque reduction to confirm.

Without a smoke test you may never find the air leak. I would not continue your diagnosis until you find one.

yes sir. got that one.

I had this issue in a converted gu patrol, I'll see if I still have the zf file so you can compare if you like. I don't remember how I sorted it as it was afew years back 😅

Spark at 2 degrees suggests you have a fairly severe intake air leak. The car will also likely overheat in summer like this. Sometimes leaks become worse when the engine torques over if the engine mounts are stuffed, as one side will pull on all the ancillaries and make the leak much worse temporarily. Being a BA it wouldn't surprise me if there were multiple small leaks.

hi bill, im chasing an issue where my zf holds 1st gear...so i played with the E trans setting, turning it off... ive driven the car a couple of times since and noticed no change. what changes were you hoping for?

change to a turbo map sensor. change fuel pressure to 4bar turn on turbo logic, change map sensor, import spark load map from a turbo/ lower your spark/tune it corectly. i would also change valve springs. as a minimum.

Yes it is. Make sure it's set to high priority by right clicking on it. 300rpm sounds about right. In low gears the rpm will rise so fast the pcm can't stop it quick enough so there is a deadband setting which is about 150 rpm. Depends on the rate of acceleration as to how far it can exceed it. Set the fuel cut lower if you don't want it getting that high.

Yeah sweet. The trans was stock with just a tune and a bigger oil cooler. It handled it fairly well and for a long time, all things considered. It recently broke the input shaft but should have it sorted in a few weeks. There is a thread here where I fairly extensively document the build and progression from about 370awkw to 711awkw.

Yeah you gotta have some overboost protection or you might just hit 45 in the mid...ask me how I know

You can disagree with tuner lock as much as you want but if you do such a thing you'll be hurting our top customers. This isn't a hobby for them, it's their lively hood, it is what pays their bills, some of them have million dollar loans for dynos and sheds, this would mean less revenue for them and hence less revenue for us. This means less R&D funds for us to continue building cool software like the multi tune and our new datalogging package. Can I make a suggestion. If you have enough time to even consider something like this maybe put it towards learning to tune or something else with a positive outcome for the Australian tuning community.