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  1. Well we all start somewhere don't we... This is a simple way of looking at it; Think of the slope numbers as how big the ecu thinks the injector is. For the sake of making it easy, lets assume both slopes are the same number. If you make them 100 the ecu will run an afr of 14.7 for example. It wont actually be that afr but lets just say it is. If we make the slope number smaller, the ecu thinks the injector is smaller and will open the injector for longer which will run richer. So there is one way of thinking about how the size of the slopes work. The rea
    3 points
  2. The first revision is being reviewed at the moment. Still a few months off but we will let everyone know when it is available. I would say its over the halfway complete mark now though.
    2 points
  3. Also we have invested a large amount of money into producing some training material and a tuning guide which will have an accompanying in person training session available in VIC which we hope will be available this year. This has taken us years to find someone capable of doing this which also has the availability to deliver on it. It is very hard to find people who can do this job and are willing to take it on. The reason we haven't had anything available to date is not from lack of trying, we just literally could not find anyone to hire to develop it.
    2 points
  4. I've got an auto and use rolling antilag all the time. I use it to launch the car too. I don't use a rev limiter at all, I use -20 timing in the launch tune after the rpm I want it to activate ie; 2250rpm onwards, for launching on a stock converter, and set the entire fuel map in the launch tune to 0.75 lambda. I've set my desired boost to 17psi and the wg table to whatever will be close to 17psi. It will cut the boost after 17psi according the the over/underboost settings so either import them to the launch tune or adjust your launch tune desired boost accordingly. It can push
    1 point
  5. That is a manual in neutral. It is not going to work the same in an auto or if you are in gear doing a rolling launch.
    1 point
  6. Depends on the cams. Basically anywhere you are getting aircharge going out the exhaust making the airflow model non linear. The only way you will know is via datalogging and seeing how the standard ve model falls over with large overlap.
    1 point
  7. It should be linear once on boost. You only need to manipulate it in the vac zone. Everything below 101 kpa or 14.7psi is off boost.
    1 point
  8. It is already available here: https://forum.pcmtec.com/topic/235-howto-disable-or-reset-zf-6-speed-long-term-adaptive-learning-kam/
    1 point
  9. Before you go flashing an F6X tune into your Territory, check out the "HOWTO: ABS Re-programming". There's a lot of useful information there and some specific to the Territory & the different ABS systems that will likely change your mind about flashing the F6X tune in. You would be better off comparing the F6X calibration with yours & copying over relevant differences. If you think you'll want to tune the ZF, get the professional version or you'll wish you had later on. Have a look at the pricing, the professional version will show you what you get on top of the enthusiast versio
    1 point
  10. I'll give you an example. You spend 1mil buying a workshop. Then you spend 500k on a dyno, sound proofing, external exhaust, tools and then drop 300k a year on maintenance and employees. You then buy a brand new test car and spend months of R&D tuning it, taking it to the track, blowing the motor after testing the limits. More tuning and R&D until you know how far you can push the limit of the motor. Maybe a few hundred k of R&D and you start charging 1.5k for tunes. This Includes mechanical inspection and all the prior knowledge you learnt. Joe blow down the road who h
    1 point
  11. There are no training guides for workshop edition owners. For the most part they already know how to tune so don't need training. Support is generally limited to technical issues, although there have been numerous write-ups in the forum that are extremely helpful and would be a reason shops want it kept private. If you want to learn how to tune you need to understand how everything works and that's years of mechanical knowledge right there. Then there is the software specific side of it which is fairly easy to work out when you've done it before. If your car is already
    1 point
  12. You'll find the speed source setting is incorrect in the PCM for the vehicle. The BA uses 2 different ABS systems. The first is a 3 channel system for ABS equipped vehicles & a 4 channel system for ABS/TCS equipped vehicles. I wouldn't expect that the calibrations would be in any way compatible which rules FORScan out as an option for fixing your issue. I believe you'll have 3 options.....I'd go with option 2 if you have the original PCM Option 1. licence the PCM & change the speed source setting to match the original PCM.....there may still be other differences in the c
    1 point
  13. Sorry folks i have found them now, still trying to get my head around everything, so much going on in this software its awesome!
    1 point
  14. hey JPM. thanks so much for writing back. i have decided to let a professional handle it, the fella im going to take it to.. he has tuned a few of these things, his going to road tune it. (495) im currently looking to buying a BA falcon with a 4 speed in it.. i cant come to blow up the BF if it comes to that.. (if it was to happen, back to the drawing board MKII BF lpg motor with valve springs an E85) i have picked up some 550cc injectors for 50 bucks (to be flow tested) if they are shit ill just bin them. regards to the ECU,wiring harness an boost controller. i 100% agree with y
    1 point
  15. Xr6t runs less compression. You will blow it up in literally minutes if you use that tune. Na+T needs knock ears to tune it properly as it will be very knock limited. Are you planning on purchasing knock ears, a wideband and some method to log fuel pressure? The na box will also blow up with any decent torque behind it.
    1 point
  16. Shouldn't need any drivers installed for the DLP cable as we embed the usb/serial driver in the pcmtec installer.
    1 point
  17. 1. No engine braking. When down shifting I get no engine braking. (The revs increase but road speed stays about the same). Having read this forum I understand that L/100 should read 0.0 when on deceleration but I get around 4-5L/100 depending on RPM. Sounds like DFCO (decel fuel cut) is either disabled or more likely it is not working due to excessive load (air leak is the most common cause). If the car is tuned I would advise returning the tune to stock and see if it goes away. If it is not tuned then you have a mechanical issue and I would smoke test the inlet. Not all tuners hav
    1 point
  18. So another update... This morning I hooked up a 35psi boost gauge and with the desired boost at 25, it was running over 35psi. With the desired boost at 26 it went over 40psi. I came home, removed the signal pickup for the knock box from the boost sensor signal wire and it seemed to fix it. It was a needle pickup so maybe it had earthed out on something? Just by removing that, the car went back down to 25psi, albiet with funky wg control. A few runs up and down the road to fix the wg duty etc and it seems to run 25psi most of the way up. Since I had tuned it and scaled the
    1 point
  19. You're asking for a free tune here. No please, no interaction, no punctuation, all caps and your other posts aren't much better. There is an entire farken thread about it that you're posting in. Learn some forum etiquette and it'll take you a long way buddy.
    1 point
  20. Just thought I would give yous a little update and give you some more information on shift patterns as it may help some of yous out. After having a look at the standard ZF tune that comes in my FG F6, FG XR6T and a FG GT that I recently had a play with, it appears that Drive and Performance modes shift patterns are constant between the three of them, so if "x" shift pattern was a drive mode on the F6 it was also a drive mode on the GT & XR6T and same as performance modes. The difference I found was that shift pattern 35 through to 38 on the GT are Limp modes. The table below is shift
    1 point
  21. For the racer out there you should look at Shift Pattern 27: This is the manual shift mode. The 8000 are the output shaft speed that effectively stops the car shifting gear. From this you will see the car will down shift but not up shift gear. So if you want to go to the drags you can alter the 8000s to a speed you want the car to shift. It is not precise so you will have to work on it for your own car. The aim is to use this table to either get the car to shift automatically at the optimal point or give you a safety net so the car will shift automatically if you don't get you
    1 point
  22. ok so i hit the trans button a few times, i have done this before but this time my computer was actually online...it connected and downloaded ZF-DMRs then they appeared. so it seems i can see the ZF stuff now. but does bring about my new issue. it seems to be ignoring the 1 to 2nd change...even at the lowest of throttle it wont go into 2nd untill its over 2krpm. the rest seem to work when you change them. strange
    0 points
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