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Darryl@pcmtec

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Darryl@pcmtec last won the day on July 31 2022

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  1. Hi OneFastt. At this stage if you want to tune the vehicle and retain the Custom OS features you will need to purchase the full product and get "approved" to do multitunes. We are looking at a couple of products for future release(s) that may suit your requirements but currently PCMTec is focusing on the PCMTec ProTuner release.
  2. With respect to the max voltage setting for the boost sensor you will need to set it above 5.0V if you want to disable this safety feature. You can calculate what the pressure is but I seem to remember tha 4.2 volts on a standard sensor is a boost pressure of about 18psi. Regarding the coil packs, genuine work best. I know of quite a few ZF transmissions with broken input shafts due to the wrong coil pack being used. I had non genuine coil packs in my car once and the cuts they caused very extremely violent (genuinely scary) and I can see why they would break a transmission. I can't remember the error code that was thrown.
  3. Hi Sean Livingston, I have seen this before and I would recommend you fix those fault codes. Don't waste your time until these errors are resolved. It sounds to me like a wiring issue. Can bus errors like these will cause all sorts of FMEM modes. Given you have fitted a new turbo look for a plug being pulled out or damaged. If the car has a ZF check the round plug on it for a pushed out pin. It is not uncommon for the PCM connectors to come loose as well so try and see if the plug is loose or not locked in. You need the CAN bus (OBDII communicates over it as well). Also check auxiliaries like the alternator as the modern ones have a CAN bus signal wire going though them (smart alternator). Speed Control command switch high also shows faulty wiring/short in the steering wheel cruise control. This is from the internet: Let us know how you get on.
  4. Hi hjtrbo, As a bit of background on the tuner lock when you say "Most customers are very loyal to there tuner for the life of that vehicles ownership" is not our experience at all with Ford vehicles. I believe it is true for Holden cars but we see many customers shop around and get the tune done again. The issue you have sounds like it is remote tuning and that your workshop wont invest the time to do that, purely a business call by them. You could ask another tuner who is willing to do that or even leave the tune unlocked so you could do it yourself (there will be one near you). Further you can negotiate with your original tuner to get the tune sent to another tuner and we will transfer the licenses from one tuner to the other if they agree. We could facilitate this if you want. We do not unlock tuner locked cars for many reasons. There is an interesting story where the coroner/police asked us to unlock a tune and we could not without a lot of work and a court order. Much better for them to find the original tuner and negotiate with them what was done. Another fun one is that some have tried to move a flex tune to another vehicle, good time waster that one is if you like bricking vehicles I fully understand your frustration. Roland and I started PCMTec for this exact reason, I had to do 130kms across town every time I needed a tune changed and then it was only once in a few months. Fortunately my tuner said he would show me how to tune and I could purchase another product and start. This was the beginning of PCMTec for me. A multi tune is quite protected, I can take over your support ticket if you want and see what we can do.
  5. Hi John, If you use the factory turbo TMAP sensor then you only need to enable Turbo Logic via auF0281 and the sensor will automatically be scaled correctly. The factory turbo sensor is a 255KPA sensor so it will support about 21lbs of boost
  6. We recently had a customer who converted to a Multi Tune and after converting the vehicle the cruise control would just flash (on the dash) when trying to engage cruise control. The way to get it to not "flash" was to start the car with the brake on. Here is an extract from the workshop manual that states they should all do this: Now this is not what the original car did but resetting it back to stock and this behaviour was still happening. The resolution for this is to reset auF2648 back to the stock value. We found it had been changed from 3 which works on a MK1 to a 1 which works on a MK2. auF2648 is the Hardware Configuration of the Brake Switches and can be found under the "System Switches" Navigator entry:
  7. Hi Rusty, for PCMTec customers with the Workshop version there is a procedure we show them that allows them to reset the adaptive learning. I will let others answer the second method.
  8. Hi Andy, Yes it is still the cable we recommend. Don't get the clone as they usually work for a few times and then fail when writing the flash which can often leave the car "bricked".
  9. That is the table, 8000 is a speed it will not reach so it wont shift. Lower it to the point you want and it will shift. You will need to experiment with it as well as there are bigger errors in the lower gears and you have to put it lower to achieve your shift point.
  10. Shift up, no. Shift down it will at, approximately, the specified Output shaft speeds
  11. Here is the background information on STFT and LTFT in the logger: STFT will be the commanded lambda that the vehicle is commanding. Unless under open loop fuel control the vehicle will be bouncing this around from lean to rich to cycle the catalytic converter enable it to operate correctly. LTFT is a better measure of how well the fuel system is working. As the LTFT tends to 1.0 it means the area where this is happening (RPM and Load) has good data (Injector data, speed density, ...). Below 1.0 it is richening the mixture and above 1.0 it is leaning the mixture. LTFT will be useful when the vehicle is in closed loop fuel control and is a good measure of the tune configuration. Don't get too tied up with getting the values below 2% as that is where you will struggle to get below unless you have a perfectly matched set of injectors (most are within 5% of their rated and actual flow). Now the % question might be covered with an upcoming release of the logger which has Histograms (and other really cool features). I will raise a support ticket to investigate further.
  12. Puffwagon, as a quick test without the engine running turn on the ignition and check the readings of the two sensors. They both should read the same value and it should be around 100 Kpa depending on altitude. With the engine running you could load it up a bit and check other readings as well, just keep it below the voltage switch point.
  13. Nice. My 4.2 volts was for the boost sensor, the tmap max volts seems to be 4.9 on the cars I have looked at.
  14. PuffWagon, it has been a long time but I thought I made the MAP switch point 4.15V and just below the factory MAP max Volts for the reasons you state. I remember the original 4.2 volts was awound 18.5 psi. I agree the max volts should be set to something over 5.0.
  15. Hi PuffWagon, Can you help me with your 4 bar Bosch Settings as they are way off from what I have and would cause under-reading of boost. Here are the settings I have: Lets change this to start with and see if we get in line. With respect to: "The highest I saw was 46 absolute or something so I figured that it was getting data from the 4 bar boost sensor" the 46 "Hg is roughly the 23psi you may be seeing.
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