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Everything posted by Darryl@pcmtec

  1. We recently had a customer who converted to a Multi Tune and after converting the vehicle the cruise control would just flash (on the dash) when trying to engage cruise control. The way to get it to not "flash" was to start the car with the brake on. Here is an extract from the workshop manual that states they should all do this: Now this is not what the original car did but resetting it back to stock and this behaviour was still happening. The resolution for this is to reset auF2648 back to the stock value. We found it had been changed from 3 which works on a MK1 to a 1 which
  2. Hi Rusty, for PCMTec customers with the Workshop version there is a procedure we show them that allows them to reset the adaptive learning. I will let others answer the second method.
  3. Hi Andy, Yes it is still the cable we recommend. Don't get the clone as they usually work for a few times and then fail when writing the flash which can often leave the car "bricked".
  4. That is the table, 8000 is a speed it will not reach so it wont shift. Lower it to the point you want and it will shift. You will need to experiment with it as well as there are bigger errors in the lower gears and you have to put it lower to achieve your shift point.
  5. Shift up, no. Shift down it will at, approximately, the specified Output shaft speeds
  6. Here is the background information on STFT and LTFT in the logger: STFT will be the commanded lambda that the vehicle is commanding. Unless under open loop fuel control the vehicle will be bouncing this around from lean to rich to cycle the catalytic converter enable it to operate correctly. LTFT is a better measure of how well the fuel system is working. As the LTFT tends to 1.0 it means the area where this is happening (RPM and Load) has good data (Injector data, speed density, ...). Below 1.0 it is richening the mixture and above 1.0 it is leaning the mixture. LTFT will be
  7. Puffwagon, as a quick test without the engine running turn on the ignition and check the readings of the two sensors. They both should read the same value and it should be around 100 Kpa depending on altitude. With the engine running you could load it up a bit and check other readings as well, just keep it below the voltage switch point.
  8. Nice. My 4.2 volts was for the boost sensor, the tmap max volts seems to be 4.9 on the cars I have looked at.
  9. PuffWagon, it has been a long time but I thought I made the MAP switch point 4.15V and just below the factory MAP max Volts for the reasons you state. I remember the original 4.2 volts was awound 18.5 psi. I agree the max volts should be set to something over 5.0.
  10. Hi PuffWagon, Can you help me with your 4 bar Bosch Settings as they are way off from what I have and would cause under-reading of boost. Here are the settings I have: Lets change this to start with and see if we get in line. With respect to: "The highest I saw was 46 absolute or something so I figured that it was getting data from the 4 bar boost sensor" the 46 "Hg is roughly the 23psi you may be seeing.
  11. Well done Beer That is what you would do for drag racing to ensure you never miss a gear change/put a safety margin so that the trans will catch a miss. Now I suspect you may find that this will not stop kick down for example if you try a launch in second on some cars. We have not worked out why this happens (two identical territories both with 77DA, one would kick down from 2nd to 1st on launch, the other would not). There is a work around for this but it is only available in the Workshop version of the PCMTec Editor and completely disables kick down. I worked with Stathi from IMS to r
  12. Hi Dolan, can you check that all the tables and scalars you are editing are all in units of psi. The desired boost table by default is in units of inches of mercury (inHg) which is about double the PSI value.
  13. The code to do the injector cut (gear fart/shift burble) is only in the FGs and it is not in the BF.
  14. Sam, I just rechecked and 11 kpa is 3.2483 like you said. Pressure differential would be 87.409 => Slope 19.424, back feeding and Offset => 1.607 Good spotting.
  15. The Enthusiast version does not have access the Custom OS features like boost by speed. Assuming the tune has not been tuner locked, you will need Professional to open the file (some editing is allowed) and Workshop version to change the Custom OS features.
  16. HACCKAC is a manual calibration. You can use the Calibration tools to download it, save it and compare it against the auto tuner. You can also import the licensing information and VID from the HACCKAB file read and flash that in to the car without using extra credits (all HACCK calibrations will be licensed as long as you import the licensing information from the vehicle). The diff ratio will need changing but at least you will see it fixes the issues.
  17. My understanding is the BF loom has the wires for the manual like the clutch switch. You will need to check the clutch switch is plugged in. Also if the car still has the auto loom then you will need to ensure the CAN wire that goes though the ZF has been connected. Have a look at this post for the wiring requirements:
  18. clutch input is not in the FG auto loom, you need a manual loom to get that working or you can leave the auto calibration in and change the tune. see:
  19. Conversions can be difficult. A few questions: Do you know if this car has a manual writing loom replacing the auto loom? Does the cruise control work? Do you know why the person doing the conversion stuck with an automatic calibration but did not fix auF2193? Personally I would never turn the torque module switch off (auF0260) , this will cause all sorts of issues and may be something to do with the throttle hang. Datalogging the Clutch Flag, Brake Flag, Neutral and reverse switches and see if they work will be a great help as well.
  20. With version 1.23 we will move the remaining "rapier transmission" parameters out of the development section and put them into the "ZF 6HP PCM Parameters":
  21. @Superb I have added the extra parameters you require to the Enthusiast and Professional packages. Download the latest 1.22 from the web site and you should be able to log these now.
  22. Hi itcy, I had a car that was tuned elsewhere and it did the same thing. First point of call is to check your injectors are dialed in properly. Mine was sitting around the 270rwkw and it went to about 320rwkw on the baby turbo at 14psi.
  23. haha, I agree. Unfortunately the motor trade wrote the specifications for J2534 specifically for Windows and then developed all the software based on that specification.
  24. To clarify using bootcamp and running Windows native works fine. I did this on my Mac a few years ago. Doing anything in a VM environment was where the drivers had issues so we decided not to support it (as well as the reasons @Roland@pcmtec mentioned). Simply partition the disk and boot Windows native.
  25. License is on a user/account basis so you will need to license the file to edit and flash it using your your account. Having said that and assuming the tuner who did the original tune did not tuner lock it you can read the tune out and edit it without licensing it. The changes you make will be stored in the file and can be shared with other PCMTec users. When you want to write the updated file into the vehicle the vehicle must be licensed.
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