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trav1s last won the day on March 12

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  1. I was asking how you would tackle the issue, if it came into your workshop as I'm curious.
  2. So just curious, if you ran into this issue, you'd disable the knock sensor from pulling out timing, put your aftermarket detection gear, start ramping timing until safe. Would you then desensitize the knock sensor as now you know it isn't picking up any knock and be done? or leave it disabled?
  3. I understand the importance of proper knock detection and is awesome using headphones (Adaptronic ECUs come standard with 3.5mm jack) but I've tuned plenty of powerFCs which solely use knock the sensor and can confirm they work a treat, same with the Link ECUs. Guess that's not the case with these here? figured they'd be better with the donut style knock sensor, if it's just a case of the knock sensor needs to be desensitized, that's an easy fix, it's usually what I do with the Link ECUs too, rule out background noise which I guess that's what I'm facing with this. Obviously headphones or aftermarket knock detection is the way to go, not denying that.
  4. Just waiting to get some time with the car, he's been a bit busy so haven't had a chance to fiddle yet, will update as soon as I get a chance, hoping for tomorrow. Is yours a BA as well?
  5. Yeah that's right, that's why I put 4-6 degrees on boost, because I know it's 100% not knocking on that timing with 11.8AFRs. I'll still attempt to pull the 10 degrees out of the rest of the map though.
  6. He does have bigger injectors to put in, so I’ll stress to do that sooner rather then later. In the mean time, I’ll attempt to pull 10 degrees out of the whole map and report back. Thanks for your help Roland.
  7. Not to sure how old the motor is, AFRs ares solid. I've had it running basically 2-3 degrees (in the spark map) @ WOT 10psi and it'll pull timing into the negatives, don't have a dyno to test unfortunately, I just do road tunes.
  8. Evening fellas, Got a BA XR6 turbo that I'm tuning, stock apart from cooler and intake. Doing a log on the spark PID and the Spark adder average for all cylinders, I find soon as it's on any kind of boost, it pulls timing out. I've made both BLK and the MBT both the same, adjusted the lambda correction table etc, I've got really conservative timing until I sort this out (4-6 degrees @ 10psi) so I know it's gotta be false knock. I've confirmed it's the knock retarding the timing as I 0'd out the knock scalars and it no longer pulled timing. Just wondering if anyone has come across something like this? Usually I would just turn the sensitivity of the knock sensor down until the false knock is gone but just curious if anyone has ran into this before. Cheers,
  9. Basically, the 500 load cell is your WOT fuel, like Roland said, once it hits around 590AD counts, the computer thinks your at WOT. So .87 lambda would be around 12.7AFR then it dips down 11.8AFR @ 5k RPM, then 11.0AFR at the top end. Please someone correct me if this isn't the right information.
  10. This helped me out with my conversion, hall effect sensor on the back wheel using the studs. Chose hall effect sensor but still wouldn't work, found this thread and applied this setting. Boom worked straight away, thank you so much good sir.
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