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Puffwagon last won the day on September 20

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  1. Direct injection rather than port injection helps with cylinder temps too.
  2. Yep they can make a couple of hundred rwkw at 14.7:1 afr if you don't adjust it. If the timing is safe it won't detonate but it will introduce a lot of heat into the combustion chamber and surrounding areas. If you were towing for a long time with those unfavourable conditions, you would likely destroy your cat, o2 sensor and anything else that is close to the exhaust, which will be glowing red after a while.
  3. Nah I didn't do anything else with it. I ended up running another wg spring and maxing the turbo out like that. I had a wg reference line come off while messing around with it, made 45psi in the mid and broke a rocker arm as a result. If the motor wasn't built it would have broken a rod or piston too.
  4. Yeah sweet. The trans was stock with just a tune and a bigger oil cooler. It handled it fairly well and for a long time, all things considered. It recently broke the input shaft but should have it sorted in a few weeks. There is a thread here where I fairly extensively document the build and progression from about 370awkw to 711awkw.
  5. Stathi does have a parameter file, maybe they just didn't have it on hand? Send them an email, let them know you bought it from them and they should sort you out. If you get stuck I'll give you the file they gave to me. It's not very hard to work out how to scale it so you can always figure that out and get it working the way you want. It didn't blow my motor as it is built but it did break a rocker arm tho. I routinely run 35 to 40psi and so far haven't had many issues. I swapped out the mls head gasket for an athena gasket but apart from those 2 things the engine has been going strong for over a year now.
  6. Yeah mate I got it downloaded but I need to wait a while before I can use it cos my trans is cactus. Won't be long tho!
  7. Yeah you gotta have some overboost protection or you might just hit 45 in the mid...ask me how I know
  8. The datalogging shows 257kpa cos that's where the stock tmap maxes out. The tmap is the one in the manifold and the boost sensor is the one in the pipe. You only need to swap the boost sensor and then you can use the custom os to swap it at 3.5V or whatever. Have you got a built motor? A stock one won't like 25psi very much.
  9. I'm happy to run (petrol scale) 12:1 to 12.3:1 up to about 30psi/600kw and try to get it at 12:1 above that. You make more power at 12.5:1 but repeated runs on the dyno or road isn't the best idea for cylinder temps. I would back out of a run if I saw 13:1 or a sustained period above 12.5:1. Again there is a 10 to 20kw difference when running richer or leaner. Road tuning should really be done conservatively and care should be taken with a stock motor when deciding how fast to ramp in the boost.
  10. You really need a dyno to figure out if you're getting more power or not. You should be getting about 15 to 20rwkw per degree of timing and about 10 to 15rwkw per psi. It sounds like you are pretty much swapping your timing for boost and seeing no difference. On E85 I ran about 17 degrees of timing at 25psi on a built motor with that turbo and it made 495awkw.
  11. How soon is soon and how excited out of ten should I be?
  12. Stab the pickup into the coil wire and use that instead, in my experience it works a lot better. Also be careful sticking a probe into your map/boost sensor. I had issues with the boost sensor not reading properly causing it to run up to 15psi more than commanded.
  13. That's pretty cool. I reckon I'll have to give it a try one day.
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