Puffwagon

Cheers mate.

I followed the wiring from the shifter into the passenger footwell and there is continuity after the grey plug that goes into the main wiring harnesses. There is no continuity from the interior plug into the main wiring harness plug under the bonnet. I ran some speaker wire from the plug in the footwell into the plug under the bonnet and it upshifts. Obviously the break is somewhere under the dash or in the engine bay. I should have investigated this while the engine was out 2 weeks ago but I didn't. I'm just going to run another piece of wire for now, be farked digging into the wiring when there is so much stuff in the way. Thanks for the help Bill, pm me your address if you want some beer.

There is continuity between the zf plug and the main connector on the upshift wire. I guess I'll be looking between the shifter and the other side of the connector.

I had a check, there is continuity on pin 4 but nothing on pin 5. I guess I'll take the centre console out and pull the carpet back to find exactly where the loom goes through the floor. Asking a perhaps obvious question, does the shifter wiring go straight to the trans?

Thanks mate, I'll check it later when I get a chance.

What's up everybody?! My territory wont upshift via the shifter in manual mode. It will downshift however and will go in and out of performance mode. It is an AWD 6 speed, the box is a zf6 hp26 hybrid. All other automatic functions work fine. There is a circuit board attached to the shifter, the shifter has a magnet in it and the magnet passes over sensors to tell it when it goes from park to r, to n, to d and over to performance mode. In the performance mode side there are 2 sensors, one to upshift and one to down shift, obviously when you move the shifter it triggers a sensor and it shifts. If I earth the performance pin it will light up performance mode on the dash and if I earth the downshift pin at the same time it will go into first. If I earth the upshift pin nothing happens. The wiring fucks off through the floor under the centre console and I suppose it goes up to the pcm or maybe straight to the tcm? I'm wondering where is the best place to check for continuity? I've cleaned the fark out of the zf plug etc. It was working when I bought the car and stopped working after I flashed the trans. It now has a different trans in there, I've tried a different shifter circuit board and I've looked for anything obvious in the tune that did it. I can't put the box back to stock as it is from a different car and will go into limp mode if I flash the stock TCM file into it. I think it is a coincidence about the flashing thing but worth a mention in case anyone has come across it before. There's a high 5 and a 6 pack of beer in the post for whoever nails it lol. Thanks for the help 😁

^^^Do this so you understand what is happening. It will also explain why you can't feel a difference, after you have a think about it.

Putting 8000 in the shift lock table will keep the converter unlocked for most of the gears. That value will still let the converter lock up at 7000rpm in 5th and 5500rpm in 6th, so on the off chance you will be actually going this fast and want the converter unlocked still, you should use a lightly higher number. An OSS of 8000 is 312kph in a awd zf territory, so unlikely it will need a higher number than that. Click on the vehicle speed tab in the unit converter, then you can adjust the values to see how different OSS numbers affect when the lockup comes on in regard to RPM etc.

This same questions was asked elsewhere and @Whiteford replied that it was possible and a significant upgrade.

Ah ok, I thought you were tagging the anti lag when you didn't want to. Off the top of my head you can search for "speed control", it will switch the cruise control system on or off. I'd have to compare your tune to see anything more.

See above

You generally want your cruise control to be working between 1600 and 2000rpm. There is no need for anti lag to be working in this rpm range. To fix your problem, you will adjust the launch tune borderline knock table. Make it have the same timing as your usual driving tune up to 2750rpm or so. After there you can have it set to your desired anti lag timing. This will mean you can turn on the cruise control at the usual cruising rpm without it changing the ignition timing.

Yep that's the theory. You could change the injector slope or bump up the fuel pressure for extra fuel too, it will work but it's not how you should tune.

Change the base map and adjust the lambda spark correction to account for the timing offset. Rather than frig around doing it that way, spending a hundred dollars plus on fuel to tune it, just buy a 4 bar boost sensor and be done with it.

I've got a you beaut suggestion, Add a tick box on the write screen for resetting the zf6 trans adapts. I ain't no coding guru but if the box was checked then you'd flash ZF02859 from two to zero, ignition cycle, then flash it back to two.

I also checked if you can find the reset scalar with enthusiast and it found it so I guess you can do it with any version. I'm not looking at the differences now but a lot of the time the axis will be different so the values look different, even tho they are the same if the axis were the same. Gimme a couple of strategy codes you're looking at and I'll see if I can shed some light on it.

It appears you can only load engine related maps with the table trace.

Yeah mate no worries, good luck with it.

I don't know if you need the workshop version, you can search for that scalar and see if you can find it. I'll check tomorrow. Changing the areas you think need adjusting by a few psi won't hurt anything. If it is only a pressure issue on decel downshift, you should be able to have it sorted easily enough. Decel with injectors off is the top row of the shift map, it has negative torque. Decel with the injectors partially on would be the row under it etc. You can log where the engine runs through a map with the map trace function. I haven't tried it with a trans map but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Another thing I'll check tomorrow. Don't get overwhelmed with it tho, it could just be 4 to 6 cells in 3 separate maps that need adjusting.

Yes the temp offset is just an adder or subtractor to the gearbox pressures. It's just not changing it by much when you get close to operating temp ie 60C to 100C. The reason it is zero there is because that is where the trans is operating, so there is no need for it to adjust the pressure. You could have it zero at these temps or you can fine tune it to have a little bit of influence there, it doesn't matter. To answer the question directly, you can put 0.7 there if you want, it is entirely up to you and how you want your car to operate. Nothing bad will come of it if that is your concern. 5% is probably a good place to start, you won't need to change any of the really cold stuff or really hot stuff, it is pretty much already tuned. You need to log how hot your trans is so you know where to make changes. Usually when you're tuning something, you will get it up to operating temp, tune everything so it works how you want it to, then you will do it again from cold and adjust all of the temp correction settings afterwards. This is the same for engine coolant temp, intake air temp, trans temp and any other temp you can think of that will affect the operation of the engine or trans. You can reset the adapts with this method, you might find that all of the adjusting you've done so far will be changed but the option is there anyhow. It might fix the clunk that you're having. Read through that thread anyway, there is some more info on how to get the trans to relearn quicker.

I would rather change the table that is causing the issue but it's not the only way to do it. If I couldn't get it to work by changing the table then I would look at the temp offset. Up to you how you approach it, if the car drives fine after the change then it's not wrong. It might be fixable with the temp offset, it would just do a global change at that temp so you might end up with other areas that need fixing. This is a modified temp offset table that I have for a built trans. It's worth noting that this will be adding pressure. If your car was working better when cold, maybe it does need more pressure rather than less pressure. Stock is 0 at 40C, 60C and 100C, this one has a bit more pressure at 100C, so at operating temp of 70C or whatever it will interpolate between 60 and 100 and give you a bit more pressure. Lol you can round those numbers up to 1 or 2 decimal points, I just copy pasted it. -30 10.8778303189874 -20 9.42745294312245 0 8.70226425518995 10 4.35113212759498 25 2.90075475172999 40 1.45037737586499 60 0 100 0.725188687932496 110 1.45037737586499 130 2.90075475172999

Look in the ZF trans pressure downshift section. Oncoming pressure is the pressure applied to the gear you're shifting into. Offgoing pressure is the pressure used to hold the current gear you're in. ZF00609, ZF00626 and ZF00634 are shift pressure oncoming for the downshift. Lower them by 5% at a time in the area it's clunking. Here is a bit of a read about it https://forum.hptuners.com/showthread.php?36986-Concise-definition-of-oncoming-offgoing-pressure-and-clutch-volume

Howdy folks I've noticed that changing the speed density maps to richen the afr also changes the load, even tho the boost level remains the same. Obviously this changes many other things that are load dependant such as ignition timing, trans pressures etc, when we're just trying to change the afr. I can see why the load might change, as we're actually adjusting the airflow numbers, not fuel delivery numbers, which changes the afr as a by product. I've tuned a couple of cars which have had the fuel pump running out. Adding fuel to the SD map will keep the injectors open longer which in turn will richen the afr, despite the fuel pressure falling. This is only an interim fix and you can't rely on a failing pump to deliver constantly predictable fuel pressure. I started this topic to ask a question that I worked out the answer for as I typed it out. Rather than delete it, I may as well post it to help others that run into the same scenario.

So there's a restriction up top then. A bigger TB will likely make a difference in that area. Not really an issue for a daily driver but a reasonable mod for the person who wants the absolute most out of it.

If you want to see if your TB is a restriction, you log MAP and see if it holds 100kpa or falls down at the end to less than 100kpa. No restriction will hold the same amount of vacuum, some restriction will be more vacuum ie less than 100kpa. My VN V8 through the stock intake manifold drops to 85kpa up top, a very clear restriction.