Puffwagon

Looks like that's a possibility hey. With how complicated it is for a beginner to swap everything over or refudge it so to speak, I wouldn't want to recommend any one single change without someone available to ensure the engine stays at least as safe as it is. As we both know a 20% reduction in fuel from a stoich change isn't something you would do without the corresponding slope changes implemented at the same time. Thinking back on other posts, I understand why some tuners would rather say nothing at all on the forums, it's not for their hip pocket, it's a matter of giving people info they may use incorrectly and in turn damage their engine.

I'm on mobile now (until I fired up the laptop) so yerp This part was for Graham... I adjust injector slopes in the driveway then fine tune it on the road. Use the open loop switch to force it into open loop, have the entire base fuel table set to 0.82, now you can adjust the slopes to get 0.82 on the gauge. You can stall it up enough on the brake to get into the high slope so it's a fairly quick and easy process. After that, put it back into closed loop, put the base table back and check it. A few 4000rpm runs up and down the road is all you need to verify the slopes. You can verify the low slope with the fuel trims after you switch it back to closed loop, there are other factors that can change the afr reading but let's stick to what we're talking about. The "loop" in open and closed loop refers to the feedback circuit, in this case we're talking about the O2 sensor. Open loop has no feedback, closed loop has feedback. I only mention that cos you had it back to front. And for the rest of the post, the high slope for those injectors was around 105 lb/hr but I am sure I was chasing a low fuel pressure at the time so yerp, the data was only good for that setup at that time. I also note that your dead times are about 10% lower than what I was using so this will affect the slopes. The method I described up top is very easy to do when you know how to navigate the PCMTec software and understand what I'm talking about. As a start, watch your fuel trim in the log and see where it is. At idle you want it less than 5% and at cruise about the same. A little bit more doesn't really matter but if you're seeing more than 10% it's time to address it. It's not the end of the world to have 10% trims but you will be able to get it better than that. With time you'll get it down to a couple of %. I know that probably doesn't sound very simple and for that I too apologise. There's isn't much simple to tuning etc unfortunately.

Best thing to do is ask questions on the forum man. There quite a few people who know a fair bit of stuff and then I wont have to answer a million questions lol. Some days I just need a blank wall and a full beer to stare at with nothing car related 😅There's plenty of specific info on the how to sections of the forum. It's a long process to become good at anything really, so read up, smash the google search for anything and everything and when you get stuck, post up and you will have that little bit extra that someone might be able to help with. I'll explain one thing tho, the A/C WOT disable time is to switch the aircon off while you floor it. It gives that little bit extra power and doesn't flog the A/C compressor too hard. The stock value is 12s which it pretty much what a stock car will do in the 1/4 or very nearly. If you have it switch on at 6 seconds like yours is, it will be right at the top of second gear, revving it's tit's off, then the A/C compressor will engage. The clutch in the A/C compressor won't like that much and the compressor will go from 0rpm to 6500rpm nearly instantly. It'll stress the compressor, it'll stress your serpentine belt, it'll wear out the belt tensioner and idler pulley quicker, it'll add wear to your harmonic balancer and it'll slow your car down when you're trying to go flat out. Moving it up to 14s is a much better idea than halving it, even leaving it stock would be fine. Last but not least, as long as you are aware what the timer is set to you can drive your car accordingly for best mechanical sympathy. If it all seems a bit much you can get a decent tune around the 1k mark which should have you pretty well sorted.

Haha cheers Graham, dunno about being one of the best tho. The borderline knock map is stock. Due to the other issues around boost control, I kept my commentary to a minimum, so didn't elaborate on things that weren't tuned or dangerous. You're right tho, once it is ironed out the timing will need addressing to compliment the rest of the tune and the vehicle mods.

There are multiple issues there that need addressing in the tune. In order from top to bottom; Your A/C WOT disable time should be longer, leave it stock. Your CFC delay is miles too long. It's wasting fuel running it like this. Even just a few seconds is enough to blast a fat flame when you lift off the throttle. You have an engine light come on for your fuel level sender, you normally wouldn't touch this. Your fuel base startup delay is 3 minutes, this can stay stock. Your stoich value is 12.64, likely this is a typo from whoever tuned it, it should stay stock for 98 fuel. The injectors aren't scaled correctly. You have MAF fuel trim updates on, no reason to have it on. The closed loop O2 temp has been altered, there is no reason to have this changed. You can force open loop differently if this was the intended outcome. The PATS switch is off, no reason for this. The torque module is switched off. The torque requestors are set up so you can stall up the car on the brake, be careful not to snap your tail-shaft, the FG's do this. Your engine speed at stall has been changed, this can stay stock. The speed limit has been changed for no VID block yet the VID block is enabled. Your boost control isn't setup for your new actuator. I haven't mentioned every tuned thing cos some things have very little effect. To answer the title of the thread, no the tune is not safe and the car should not be brought onto boost or driven hard until it is fixed.

Let's keep in mind most people are paying for install and tuning. If the cost exceeds aftermarket options, there is no incentive to keep the stock pcm.

Mine doesn't go into limp mode from the converter slip. The only time I had it go into limp mode was making the maximum shift time too short. Halving the numbers seems to work fine, having less than 800ms in the 10C cell you're nearly guaranteed it'll go into limp mode after a short amount of time.

I have a modified factory converter to suit the 6r80 input shaft and has a much higher stall speed than stock. Because of this and also the amount of power the engine makes I run the converter fully unlocked as much as the tune will allow. I don't want to smoke the converter clutch either. With that in mind I remember that the stock TC settings have the converter lock up a lot of the time and I think this might have some effect on the relearn. It might be worth running the stock TC settings for the relearn process, then swap to tuned TC settings afterwards.

Thanks for that Bill, I'll give it a whirl after Xmas

What does someone need to learn and how long to learn it before they'd be any good as an intern?

I can try that. There are various methods used to relearn a zf box. I'll give them a try over the coming weeks. Schnellefullzeit means fast fill time or quick fill time. This is the other thing that reset.ZF_Adaptation procedure.pdf

Worth a mention, before my trans was rebuilt with many an aftermarket part, it was stock and survived over 900awhp for months. It did slip every now and then and eventually broke the input shaft. When it was rebuilt I only got a few weeks of driving on it before an engine failure. Now it has only had a couple thousand km on it so the previously mentioned numbers are likely remnants from the stock box. Anyhow I'll update the numbers over time so we can see what it does.

Yes it has. I just reflashed the PCM and TCM cos I had an update for my engine tune. Apart from being a dumbass and turning the key off when the TCM started writing, causing me to use recovery mode, it all fixed up and the E clutch still has the negative value there. Something that is likely as important in this process is the adapt times that are there. Mine were different previously, went to 0 with the reset and has a number on only the B clutch now. I'm going for a several hundred km drive this weekend so will have some data after that.

The E clutch adapt changed at 750 seconds into the drive

I knew about the adapt range temp beforehand from a previous conversation with hjrturbo. I checked the adapt temps yesterday, it is between 60C and 90C, my trans sits around 80 when warmed up. I just finished up a 26km drive with mixed driving, the E clutch adapt went to -46, the rest stayed at 0. Before the drive they were as below; A= 330 B= 60 C= -197 D= 148 E= 107

Stock value is 2. I set it to 0, flashed the TCM and adapts had returned to 0. I started the car and adapts stayed at 0. I then returned ZF02859 to 2, flashed the TCM, started the car and adapts stayed at 0. Went for a quick drive, not enough to get it up to temp and the adapts were still at 0 went I got home. Built trans, not much wear, only drove it gently cos built motor running from cold, trans didn't feel much different. I'll take it for a longer drive later and see what happens.

Boost error is how far off the target boost you are and will always be there, except at idle. It's a number that constantly changes, it isn't a changed state of the pcm. It will either be a negative number or a positive number and due to the nature of a closed loop system it will vary from your target a small amount once it is spooled up. Log boost error and you will see a large error before it spools up, then less as it reaches the desired boost.

I was also thinking along the lines of cam timing, it is easy soften the power ramp quite significantly. Make things more linear they are less likely to spin the tires.

Those ZF tables look interesting, it would be hard to do decent testing without a dyno tho. The towing scalars also seem worth a look.

It's all relative, my car is awd with big sidewalls so I'm pretty sorted for traction. Because you're operating over a large boost range you can probably just pull timing out of the map where it's running 14psi, then just have it at full timing in the bottom row. Dunno why I didn't think of that before. Edit: it is a good idea tho and that's why we see that feature in aftermarket ecus.

Building boost after a shift wasn't the issue you initially raised. That is an entirely different conversation which I'm sure many of us would like to have. Using timing instead of boost to limit power over the range you're describing isn't a good idea. Going from 14 to 24psi on E85 can be as much as a 300kw difference with a barra. Timing is worth about 25kw per degree so you're looking to remove 10 to 14 degrees to limit the power. Given that you are running between 16 and 18 degrees of timing you'll end up with uncontrollable boost levels due to the antilag effect the timing will have. It will create a lot of heat, be very inefficient with fuel, it'll feel doughy af to drive and isn't how a street car should run. Dedicated drag car yes, street car no. Having a combination of timing and boost control per gear is what you want. Due to the other options available for traction I doubt we'll see that developed. Would be cool if it was tho. Let's assume for a minute you don't want to change your tyre and wheel combo for something that has more sidewall and hence more grip, you don't want to change your actuator and install a 4 port solenoid and in general don't want to spend money or physically change anything. You can keep your traction control enabled, you can probably use some torque control in those earlier gears which would literally pull timing and close the throttle and you can use some throttle control aka don't floor it everywhere. I'm on mobile now, I'll fire up the laptop later and see if there is something in there for you. What strategy are you using and is it custom os?

Use a 4 port boost controller then you can run very low and very high boost. It's as easy as connecting 2 wires for the solenoid and using an actuator with a vacuum source on either side of the diaphragm.

Not very long, it's a tube and fin cooler so they cool down pretty fast. Probably 30 seconds or less. It will only raise from 30C to 45C with a 4th gear pull on about 38 to 40psi. Lower boost levels aren't anywhere near as bad as that.

Also it's not just for the hot days, when you start cranking up the boost you will see a significant intake temp rise just over the course of a single 4th gear pull, unless you have a massive intercooler. For the sake of adding an anecdote here, my 1000hp rated plazmaman cooler will go from 30C to 70C going flat out from 1st gear to the end of 4th gear and on the dyno have seen it remove 6 degrees of timing when heat soaked.

Yep pretty sure I said the same thing to someone the other day. Do a run and then let the IC cool back down to 25 to 30c before readjusting the timing.