Puffwagon
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Posts posted by Puffwagon
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Everything is easy when you know how 😉
It's something I've thought about doing just to have the data for it.
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Check your target idle is a reasonable number, generally you can get away with 650 in neutral and 650 in gear with large cams. From there check that your idle airflow numbers in gear and neutral are also reasonable. An easy way to get it very close is to highlight the entire (stock) column and multiply it by 1.1 aka 10%. You can repeat this process one more time if needed. Add another 5% just under your target idle area if the revs want to drop too low when pulling up to a stop. This will get you very close.
Have a look between the middle and the bottom of your borderline knock map on the far left columns, there will be some negative numbers there. It looks like you are touching those load/rpm points and having the car run negative timing. This can show up as a dead spot when you initially touch the throttle from a stop. It can be worse with the ac on and you may need to use more than half throttle to get the car out of those areas, just to get it to move. If there are negative numbers there, make them all 8 degrees. This will help with the idle staying stable.
To answer the obvious, if your idle air error is miles off then you should adjust it to get it closer to 0. If it is out a lot then it will want to either idle high or low for a second or two and will affect the ignition timing which makes it worse. The car should be dead smooth when changing from park to drive etc, if there is a rpm jump then the idle target and idle airflow need adjusting. Fyi mine is out anywhere from 0.01 when hot up to 0.15 when cold and I have no issues with codes or limp mode etc.
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Glad to hear it was a simple fix.
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Ah gotcha, yes I see now this is posted in the US section. I was talking about the ZF6hp26 if anyone was wondering.
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42 minutes ago, engineermike said:
in 3rd gear it will show clutches B and F as having lots of slip, and in 4th it will show B and E as having slip
Third gear uses A and B while fourth uses A and E. There is no F clutch, there is only A through to E. There is also the torque converter clutch which is referenced in the power flow diagrams, however this is tunable so the point is somewhat moot.
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No worries, haha next time I'll actually read and remember the post properly
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Ok I didn't look at the temp gauge and I didn't read the first post properly. I can see it starts fine but then stalls after a short amount of time. I would start by making all of auF0028 zero, this should lower the rpm when it starts and might be enough to stop it having a dtc.
The reason it will want to light up the rears is because the torque control module is switched off. Switch it back on and the tip in retard part of the tune will work, this removes timing so the car doesn't go nuts every time you touch the throttle.
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I'm not at the desktop now but I'll compare your hot start part of the tune with the video when I get a chance tomorrow. Pretty sure there was a 400rpm adder in there but can't remember which one it was off the top of my head. I only really looked at why it wouldn't cold start, I'll have another look regarding the raised rpm post start.
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It's one of those things that you have to spend the time getting right. It'll seem like nothing works for a while but it does come good when the tune is right. It might take a week of cold start adjusting if it's way off.
Pretty sure I was getting etc errors when I changed the throttle opening too much. It was a while ago so it's not crystal clear anymore lol
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I found some info on the ti performance site that said na is 300kpa and turbo is 400kpa. It's a multiplication cos we need a ratio change, not addition or subtraction.
I forgot to mention I bought a tailpipe clamp for my O2 sensor so it just gets clamped into the end of the exhaust, same as you would have on a dyno.
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I had a look at the tune and nothing looks way off. When a car will start when hot but not when cold or vice versa, the problem is the cranking afr is wrong. Usually when a car is cold it will start ok even when extremely rich, the issue is usually not enough fuel when cranking. You can change the cranking afr by either adding more fuel or changing how much the throttle is open. More fuel means more rich and more throttle means more lean. You can also remove fuel and close the throttle, you need to take note of how much the revs jump up when it first fires up. Assuming the fueling is correct, a big jump means too much throttle opening and a stumbling start means not enough.
In this case we don't know whether the fuel auf0180 is correct or if auf0411 is correct. I would increase the numbers in auf0411 that have been modified, I would start by doubling them. It's easier to have too much throttle opening and adjust the fuel, than have not enough throttle opening and nothing ever happening cos there's not enough air.
A good way to test if there is not enough cranking fuel is to crank the car for 1 second then stop, repeat this several times and if there's some life then it's fair to assume the cranking fuel needs increasing. This is done by lowering the values in auf0180, I would change them by 0.1 at a time until there's some life when cranking, then adjust it by 0.05 to get it closer. Conversely if you can get it to start better by using a bit of throttle pedal then it's safe to say you either need more cranking throttle opening or less cranking fuel. If adding fuel all the way down to 0.5 lambda makes no difference, go the other way, it's trial and error.
These are the only 2 things I would be changing to get the car started in this case. There are other fuel things to change but not needed atm. Leave the spark alone, 10 degrees is fine.
Another helpful thing to keep a car running after startup is an idle startup adder auF0028. It will help to keep the car running for the first 30 seconds or so when it is stone cold and not wanting to have a low idle.
Long story short, get more throttle opening when cranking to rule out a lack of airflow when cranking, do some cranking fuel testing to see what the car might need, adjust the cranking fuel most likely richer but perhaps leaner.
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Yeah can't look tonight but will tomorrow for sure.
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I'll make a post tomorrow about the various parameters you need to look at for hot and cold starting. I can get my big cam barra starting first crank on e85 whether 0 degree winter morning or 40c summer day.
If you post your tune I'll have a look through it and see where it likely needs attention.
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On 8/10/2021 at 9:36 PM, hulk said:
SEE what people have tryed on changing of the osid on ecu
i have a ba turbo HAANFHZ BLACK OAK
looking to change it to the BF HACCDA3 SPANISH OAK
just like to see what people have tryed and if it will work
thanks
Changing the osid aka flashing a different strategy into it. Nothing to do with swapping a physical pcm from one car to another. Gotta brush up on those reading skills buddy 😉
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Did you read the first post? It has nothing to do with swapping a pcm from one car to another.
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Multiply the slopes by 1.33 and you'll be close to spot on.
Buy one of these, it makes life much easier. I got a window mount and extra cable, was about $700. Pity the territory is too long and the cable doesn't reach but oh well.
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All good, sometimes you just gotta hear things differently and they make sense. Same outcome, different way of understanding.
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The best way to wrap your head around it is to remember that the air pressure we walk around in is about 14.7psi.
When a car idles it pulls some vacuum but not so much that it's actually in vacuum. There is still positive air pressure in the intake manifold despite the engine lowering it from atmospheric pressure.
I gave up on anything map related in the logger making sense except the actual boost pressure. The rest of it I just do mental arithmetic if I need to understand it.
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It isn't unique to Ford, you'll find info by searching google. It is primarily designed to provide a smooth transition from decel to return to idle.
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Your load value changes when it does the raised throttle thing. The dashpot value auF2471 is set at 0.14 load, you are under that, then over it when the issue occurs. This means it will initially be in idle mode then into decel mode, which will be changing the airflow parameters as it does so. I'm pretty sure it's auF1704 that you want to lower, this will drop the decel airflow ie close the throttle a bit and should even things out. You might also want to just change auF2471 to 0.23 or so, this might work just as well without having to frig around with airflow numbers.
If you type dashpot into the search bar on the navigator it will bring up all of the various dashpot related things. You can also type daspot, dunno whether this is a spelling error or whatever but there's more parameters there.
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I must have missed this. I have had it happen on a few cars but I can't remember what I did to fix it cos it was years ago. I'm not tuning much these days so it isn't as fresh as it would be.
I'm usually happy to have a look at someone's tune if they want to post it up or pm me. It helps to have a log of it happening with some explanation of what's occurring.
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If you wanted to test the efficiency of a particular section of intake or exhaust pipe, you would place a pressure sensor in either end and log the pressure delta. It will work for vacuum as well as boost or back pressure. These pressures can be inserted into the data log with the DLP8 that most people already use for afr logging.
This is already commonly used in a workshop setting as a tool for diagnosing intake and exhaust efficiency.
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I didn't expand your quote so I only saw the top table. The values in the top table are a multiplier of a speed density map and the bottom table is inferred load.
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If you look at the picture you can see that the numbers are a multiplier.
Barra larger TB
in General
Posted
I've made over 1300hp through a single stock BF TB. I wonder if it would have made more with a bigger TB?