Puffwagon

Send it!

Ima buy my wife an external gate for xmas and if she complains ima show her this post

Next step would be to loosen the preload and see where that gets you.

Just run a hose from the comp housing to the actuator and you'll eliminate any electrical control. At least you'll be able to see if there is a mechanical issue.

Here's a handy bit of info regarding a stock wg hole. With no actuator in use and the hole wide open, you'll make no boost until around 4500rpm then it will start climbing and make around 10psi by redline. You chuck a 7psi spring on top of that with the flap connected and you've got 17psi with no duty cycle, add a bit of preload and you can easily make over 20psi with no duty at all. With a TS actuator you want the preload to be absolutely minimal ie: the flap is barely sealing the seat. Most of the time you will start losing control of the boost after 4000rpm which can be seen by the dropping duty requirements. Is this in line with what you're seeing? At any rate it's something for you to check.

Ok I can see the gate duty cycle is already 0 with the boost climbing up to 22psi or so. The tune that has been posted at the top isn't the tune that was used to get the log or at least the picture, so neither are much help. I did have a quick look at the tune however and despite it needing changes, nothing tells me that it's causing the boost to go crazy. More than likely you have a mechanical issue, could be a stuck flapper or a hole in the actuator diaphragm.

Looks like boost creeping based on reading the post. This is caused by the wastegate not being able to bypass enough air. As a diagnosing exercise make your wgdc table 0 from 4000rpm onwards and leave the desired boost at 10psi. Alternatively you could make the last column 0 and interpolate it from 3500rpm to give a gradual duty cycle drop off, while leaving the desired boost as is. I'll have a look at the log later when I get a chance.

I'm in Adelaide and am looking for something to do (other than housework), between dropping the kids off at school and picking them up.

Not sure if the edit removed what I read earlier or if I was half asleep, but if you plan to power the wideband unit from the heater output on the nb circuit you might run into issues. There is an oscmod parameter in the tune for the heater output which suggests that the heater output is variable.

Yerp I was also lazy, leaving some in the tank for that long or perhaps a few months longer. I was scratching my head wondering what all the water was doing coming out of the exhaust and it took me 2 sensors in the span of a day to unlazy myself and drain the fuel. It was an expensive lesson to learn.

The main thing to watch out for with E85 is the water content. It will absorb water from the atmosphere over time and this will pass through the engine and out the exhaust. If you let your car sit for 6 months there will be a steady stream of water coming out and this is what will kill a sensor within a few minutes. It's better to throw it out than to use old E85. Another thing to watch out for is temperature shocking the sensor. Don't preheat the sensor before starting as the internals of it will reach a couple of hundred C. A first start of the day usually has some condensation in it and this will hit the preheated sensor and can crack the internals. Just start the car as normal and the sensor will warm up within the first 20 seconds of startup. I've had good luck with Innovate, I think sensor quality has more to do with it than the controller as I've seen varying results with different sensors.

It shouldn't be too hard to fix that. Post some photos of an injector with the serial number on the side of it, and it will give members a starting point to try and help you. Start a new thread about it to keep it on topic.

I was looking at the various na power levels between 2006 and 2009 cars and they are 182kw, 190kw and 195kw. I haven't looked at all the tunes yet and obviously this where you'd start to look for more power.

That's on a turbo car then? I have a plastic intake etc that I could chuck on my na territory but I don't know if I wanna do a whole bunch of swapping for stuff all. I suppose the plastic one might have lower iats than the metal one tho. Edit: Ford wouldn't have changed it for no reason lol

Quoted for visibility. Was it worth swapping?

Maybe it's load dependant. More load = more reduction Try it in second gear so it can build more boost before it pushes through the brake. Also get under there and adjust ya handbrake 😜

Depending on stuff the injector might be firing after the spark plug, in which case it's dumping fuel into the exhaust and igniting it when it returns to normal levels of ignition timing.

No it doesn't, rather the opposite is true. Minor decel events are lean and the major decel event is also lean. Likely this is caused by the high slope being lean. You are asking questions that could be answered if you understood how a few things work. As I mentioned, you need to read up on the difference between a wide band and a narrow band O2 sensor. Specifically read up on how a narrow band sensor operates and what output you should expect from it when you read the log. You need to go back into the log and check it a lot more carefully, the car did go into open loop when it was supposed to. Read up on the difference between open and closed loop O2 control. After you understand this and how a nbO2 sensor works you will have answered your questions. Also don't floor the car until you have a wide band installed. If it was a turbo car you would have likely kicked a rod out by now. As I said you won't blow up an na car but it's not worth trying to find out. The trims look pretty good overall, I wouldn't bother touching the low slope any more, it's more or less where it needs to be. Change the high slope to where I said because I know you're gonna floor it again. When you install a wideband and dlp8 you can check it. Do the reading and if you need specific things answered about them I will help. Nothing you've asked so far can't be answered by doing your own research. Honestly, get that high slope to where it needs to be and it will be good enough to drive.

You can adjust the low slope to get the idle trim closer to 0. Leave it at a negative number rather than a positive number, otherwise you'll probably have poor cold starts and possible stalling at intersections. There is a method for dialling in both slopes in the driveway but I ain't about to type it out on my phone. I'll see if I've posted it and copy paste it for you. You need a wideband to do it tho so get onto it. On the dyno the wideband should read the same as the base table. You use injector data and speed density tables to make this work. Start with high slope adjustments, this is likely all you'll have to do with a fairly stock na car. It's past my bedtime now so I'll get back to you later.

Don't touch the minimum PW or breakpoint at this stage. They will work for now. It looks like your previous Deka data was based on a 4 bar fuel reg. At least the high slope is anyway. An na car runs a 2.7 bar fuel pressure iirc. Try 0.0125625 for the high slope and 0.020925 for the low slope. I based the high slope number on the injector flow at 2.7 bar and I based the low slope from your data extrapolated from 4 bar down to 2.7 bar. Long story short I multiplied them by 0.675. It's gonna add a bunch of fuel and should see the trims swing to -10 or so. Better to start rich and lean it out gradually, rather than have it lean af under load. The trims only work at idle, cruise and mild acceleration, full load does what you tell it to do which in this case is probably very lean. Doesn't matter on an na car, it won't hurt the engine but not ideal and loses power. Haha see what I mean about needing a wideband now?! Heh mebbe we can get an admin to make a new thread ay?

What injectors are they? Someone might have used them and can get you in the ballpark.

What are the tear tags on both cars? I'll look them up and post the stock files for you to look at.

Holy crap I completely missed this thread! All's well that ends well ay?!

Cylinder one knock level stays at zero through the whole log. Every other cylinder is showing various levels of knocks at various times.

Yep