Puffwagon
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Posts posted by Puffwagon
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Yep that's more than likely what the issue is. You can try bumping up the pressure but the bush ain't gonna get any better.
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Yep definitely a service first before opening up the trans. Do not use Penrite BMV it will make the trans slip. Use GW Syn TS.
Gears 4,5 and 6 use the E clutch, that is where you can add 0.6 bar to the whole shift pressure map to correct the 0.6 bar it's adding. After that you can do a adapt reset and see where it ends up again. Don't worry about clutch B, that is for reverse so won't matter if you reset it.
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They are very sensitive to a dirty throttle body. Check the wiring, make sure a pin hasn't backed out or loosened up. Check for water in the plugs or inside the sheath around the wiring as this will cause issues when everything else seems fine. There isn't much to see in the log, you can see where it plays up but there isn't anything else going on that I could see.
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Just gap them down to 0.6 for now and if you end up in the same boat again when you turn it up more, gap them down to 0.5.
I looked at the dwell settings but never changed them, if you run FG coils you could change it but that's a long way off being necessary.
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I'd have a whinge too but I've already done that this morning so onto the topic at hand.
I've ran 40psi/711awkw through a dead stock BF ignition system with the gaps at 0.4mm. That is both genuine stock coils and gas plugs. I've also ran the same boost making 766awkw (1000kw at the the crank) with a much larger turbo with FG coils on stock BF dwell times with stock plugs gapped to 0.5mm. The car idled fine in both cases so no worries there from having a small gap.
I found a 0.7mm gap will start to break up around the 25psi mark with the correct timing and a lean afr, if the timing is too low or if you're in the low 11s with the fuel it'll start to break up earlier.
Long story short you need to lower your gap asap and use fresh plugs if they have been fouled or are old.
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Send it!
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1 hour ago, BeerTurbo said:
External wastegate fixes everything
Ima buy my wife an external gate for xmas and if she complains ima show her this post
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Next step would be to loosen the preload and see where that gets you.
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Just run a hose from the comp housing to the actuator and you'll eliminate any electrical control. At least you'll be able to see if there is a mechanical issue.
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Here's a handy bit of info regarding a stock wg hole. With no actuator in use and the hole wide open, you'll make no boost until around 4500rpm then it will start climbing and make around 10psi by redline. You chuck a 7psi spring on top of that with the flap connected and you've got 17psi with no duty cycle, add a bit of preload and you can easily make over 20psi with no duty at all. With a TS actuator you want the preload to be absolutely minimal ie: the flap is barely sealing the seat.
23 hours ago, ZMB said:I seem to be getting control of the boost up until a certain point
Most of the time you will start losing control of the boost after 4000rpm which can be seen by the dropping duty requirements. Is this in line with what you're seeing? At any rate it's something for you to check.
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Ok I can see the gate duty cycle is already 0 with the boost climbing up to 22psi or so.
The tune that has been posted at the top isn't the tune that was used to get the log or at least the picture, so neither are much help. I did have a quick look at the tune however and despite it needing changes, nothing tells me that it's causing the boost to go crazy.
More than likely you have a mechanical issue, could be a stuck flapper or a hole in the actuator diaphragm.
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Looks like boost creeping based on reading the post. This is caused by the wastegate not being able to bypass enough air.
As a diagnosing exercise make your wgdc table 0 from 4000rpm onwards and leave the desired boost at 10psi. Alternatively you could make the last column 0 and interpolate it from 3500rpm to give a gradual duty cycle drop off, while leaving the desired boost as is.
I'll have a look at the log later when I get a chance.
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I'm in Adelaide and am looking for something to do (other than housework), between dropping the kids off at school and picking them up.
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Not sure if the edit removed what I read earlier or if I was half asleep, but if you plan to power the wideband unit from the heater output on the nb circuit you might run into issues. There is an oscmod parameter in the tune for the heater output which suggests that the heater output is variable.
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Yerp I was also lazy, leaving some in the tank for that long or perhaps a few months longer. I was scratching my head wondering what all the water was doing coming out of the exhaust and it took me 2 sensors in the span of a day to unlazy myself and drain the fuel. It was an expensive lesson to learn.
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13 hours ago, GeorgeAuto said:
with 85
The main thing to watch out for with E85 is the water content. It will absorb water from the atmosphere over time and this will pass through the engine and out the exhaust. If you let your car sit for 6 months there will be a steady stream of water coming out and this is what will kill a sensor within a few minutes. It's better to throw it out than to use old E85.
Another thing to watch out for is temperature shocking the sensor. Don't preheat the sensor before starting as the internals of it will reach a couple of hundred C. A first start of the day usually has some condensation in it and this will hit the preheated sensor and can crack the internals. Just start the car as normal and the sensor will warm up within the first 20 seconds of startup.
I've had good luck with Innovate, I think sensor quality has more to do with it than the controller as I've seen varying results with different sensors.
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10 minutes ago, ZMB said:
I have no idea what injectors are in the car
It shouldn't be too hard to fix that. Post some photos of an injector with the serial number on the side of it, and it will give members a starting point to try and help you. Start a new thread about it to keep it on topic.
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I was looking at the various na power levels between 2006 and 2009 cars and they are 182kw, 190kw and 195kw.
I haven't looked at all the tunes yet and obviously this where you'd start to look for more power.
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That's on a turbo car then? I have a plastic intake etc that I could chuck on my na territory but I don't know if I wanna do a whole bunch of swapping for stuff all. I suppose the plastic one might have lower iats than the metal one tho.
Edit: Ford wouldn't have changed it for no reason lol
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On 2/16/2021 at 12:21 PM, BeerTurbo said:
I have a fg TB and FG intake on a bf motor
Quoted for visibility. Was it worth swapping?
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Maybe it's load dependant. More load = more reduction
Try it in second gear so it can build more boost before it pushes through the brake. Also get under there and adjust ya handbrake 😜
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Depending on stuff the injector might be firing after the spark plug, in which case it's dumping fuel into the exhaust and igniting it when it returns to normal levels of ignition timing.
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7 hours ago, Andre34 said:
I noticed that the stft goes very rich on decel.
No it doesn't, rather the opposite is true. Minor decel events are lean and the major decel event is also lean. Likely this is caused by the high slope being lean.
You are asking questions that could be answered if you understood how a few things work. As I mentioned, you need to read up on the difference between a wide band and a narrow band O2 sensor. Specifically read up on how a narrow band sensor operates and what output you should expect from it when you read the log.
You need to go back into the log and check it a lot more carefully, the car did go into open loop when it was supposed to. Read up on the difference between open and closed loop O2 control. After you understand this and how a nbO2 sensor works you will have answered your questions.
Also don't floor the car until you have a wide band installed. If it was a turbo car you would have likely kicked a rod out by now. As I said you won't blow up an na car but it's not worth trying to find out.
The trims look pretty good overall, I wouldn't bother touching the low slope any more, it's more or less where it needs to be. Change the high slope to where I said because I know you're gonna floor it again. When you install a wideband and dlp8 you can check it.
Do the reading and if you need specific things answered about them I will help. Nothing you've asked so far can't be answered by doing your own research.
Honestly, get that high slope to where it needs to be and it will be good enough to drive.
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You can adjust the low slope to get the idle trim closer to 0. Leave it at a negative number rather than a positive number, otherwise you'll probably have poor cold starts and possible stalling at intersections.
There is a method for dialling in both slopes in the driveway but I ain't about to type it out on my phone. I'll see if I've posted it and copy paste it for you. You need a wideband to do it tho so get onto it.
On the dyno the wideband should read the same as the base table. You use injector data and speed density tables to make this work. Start with high slope adjustments, this is likely all you'll have to do with a fairly stock na car.
It's past my bedtime now so I'll get back to you later.
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Best NA stock tune
in Engine Tuning (AUS)
Posted
Don't copy paste anything. Buy the right tools and learn to tune properly, it isn't that hard or expensive and you will have good results every time. Tuning an na vehicle is very easy as it is still knock limited on 98 octane but you won't break a piston like you will with a turbo car.