Puffwagon
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Posts posted by Puffwagon
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No worries
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If you unplug the bov it will leak, it needs to have a boost pressure reference to stay shut under boost. In my experience a Pulsar 3584 turbo will come on boost around 3000rpm give or take depending on the intake temps.
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Nothing in the tune looks like it'll make it come on boost late. A log will help diagnose further.
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A turbo car and an NA car are doing the same thing when decelerating. Yes it will work with an NA vehicle.
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All the info you need for tuning the older efi 6 and 8 cyl Holdens is here.
In regard to the other question, you haven't given any information regarding the vehicle. List the vehicle details, engine specs and post the tune for the best chance of diagnosis. Things to check mechanically are; exhaust manifold or turbo gasket leaks, boost leaks, loose wastegate actuator setup that will open the wg flap early.
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You could get it to work but it's an exercise in futility. You can flash tune most of the commodores and live tune a handful, including boosted applications.
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Open the PCMTec program, click help, then click resync credits.
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This might do something auF0076
Look into the idle and dashpot settings, that's more than likely where to look to keep the throttle slightly open at all times.
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Another thing that kills an O2 sensor very quickly is E85 that's a bit old. It absorbs water over time and that end up coming straight out the exhaust, killing the O2 sensor along the way.
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Yeah man happy to do a whole bunch of testing, gotta keep them tuning skills at least somewhat sharp hey!
I don't have my na territory set up for flex fuel as it is just a daily, but can work something out.
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Don't run 91 octane, you're better off putting your dick in a blender. Seriously tho, the stock timing map for a na territory is literally right on the verge of knocking, even when you run 98 octane fuel. Running 91 will be losing a bunch of power due to the knock sensors pulling timing out.
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I gotta cook dinner now anyway so good luck with any changes you make. There are more conversations about some of the stuff I've mentioned there, so just use the search bar if you don't understand any of it.
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That is your open loop base fuel table and the numbers are lambda units. It uses that table when the the actual tps ad count (throttle position) is higher than auF0523 (open loop TPS transition). It uses the y axis and actual tps ad count to decide which row to use for fuelling, when it is in open loop.
To answer the question, no you don't use negative numbers there. 1 = 14.7:1, lower numbers are richer. You can use an afr chart online to see what afr it is.
I'll attach a picture of a map you can use as you have way too much fuel in it now. It is from an stock na territory and I have checked it with a wideband. It'll be slow and use heaps of fuel with the way you have it set up now. By all means add fuel to it along the 0 row but don't use negative numbers, it's not how that works. To make sure the mixture can't fully combust in the cylinder, which will put raw fuel into the exhaust, you will want a number around 0.6 or lower in the 0 row. Try going lower than this but I wouldn't put a 0 in there, it might not work. Putting 0.1 in there with the tune stoich set at 14.64:1 (which it will be) is 1.46 parts of air to 1 part of fuel, that is a ton of fuel going into the engine and might cause issues such as bore washing, diluting the engine oil and possible hydro lock.
I looked at my old tune that use to have heaps of decel flames and it was nearly stock in all the areas that you'd think would make flames. It just had the dfso time at 20 seconds and the decel spark at 0 from 2000rpm and up, that's about it. It was a turbo car tho and had a very hot exhaust from running 30+psi of boost.
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Yes, I'm looking at some stuff now from when mine used to make huge flames.
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You can turn off the back one no worries, it's the front one that you want working as it controls the closed loop fuel. Your backfires are similar to the ones my commodore makes.
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Just now, Andre34 said:
I’ll give the o2 sensor trick a go
No don't do that. I was making a comparison to what happens at the back of the car with different afr's in the exhaust. You can't remove the O2 sensor without having a bunch of issues. Yes you can switch it off but that is for a different thread. The only reason I removed the sensor in the vn is cause I needed it for another car.
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12 minutes ago, BeerTurbo said:
not because i like talking to myself
Hey man 😅
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I wasn't saying it to be a prick Roland, I just wanted it to be clear. Bigger numbers mean less fuel, you and I know that but not everyone does and it is counter intuitive.
My 5.0 VN Commodore does massive fence shaking bangs with the O2 sensor hole open compared to when there's a sensor in there. This is due to the extra amount of air being introduced to the exhaust, giving the correct afr in the pipe for an explosion rather than a gentle rumble. Also the decel timing is at 5 degrees for the decel rumble.
I'm not going to do any testing on my territory to find out how to blow a 2 metre long flame, but I reckon if you put the basics together it couldn't be too hard to work out. Start with a very hot exhaust cos flames don't work with a cold one.
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58 minutes ago, Roland@pcmtec said:
Multiply your injector slopes by 400%
This would remove 3/4 of the amount of fuel it usually injects. Is this what you meant or did you mean to add fuel?
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All very handy stuff to know
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Oh well, something is not the same, it should be easy enough to work out what it isn't happy with. You'd have to add each main directory and when the car plays up you can remove it, then add each sub-directory, then add each parameter. Easy in theory but a lot of stuffing around driving it. If it works now and doesn't slip or bang into gear then the trans will be happy.
Just for reference you will want lots of shift and line pressure on the high load and high rpm points at your power level. Remember that when you make a shift it will drop rpm and the pressure has to be there at the beginning of the next gear. 10 bar shift pressure and 17 bar line pressure is normal to keep it clamped immediately after a shift. Raise the shift pressures as needed to make sure the trans doesn't slip, but don't be afraid to raise them to where they need to be. Leave the very low load stuff as is or raise it very slightly, so it doesn't thud when it shifts with normal driving.
Anyhow there is that, the car works now so happy days
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Change the minimum dfso time (auF1265) to something higher than 1.2 seconds. This will stop the injectors turning off on decel for a longer amount of time. This will also increase the amount of time it pops and crackles while decelerating.
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Ahh I see. This is very common when you turn them up as the trans doesn't have time to shift before it hits the rev limiter. Turn your rev limiter up a few hundred rpm and it should be sorted. You can always give it a performance trans tune to get it shifting quicker and harder too. This will help it shift before the stock limiter if you didn't want to raise it. I would just raise it tho, much easier lol.
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data logging FORD FG
in Falcon HOWTO Guides
Posted
You don't need to log it but if you were to log it you would look at "spark total advance".
Progressively lower numbers in the decel table will go from no decel noise, to a bit of a rumble, a bit of popping, lots of popping, a fair bit of loud banging and popping to machine gun like banging. Start by chucking 5 degrees through most of the table and see how you like it. Make 5 degree changes to see where it needs to be, then adjust it by a couple of degrees if you feel like it. You will need lower numbers at lower rpm for the same effect. You want it to return to normal around 1000rpm otherwise it will keep running lowered timing and might stall when coming to a stop.
You need to let the fuel keep flowing on decel for there to be any explosions and this is changed by adjusting "Minimum DFSO time delay seconds" to as many seconds you want the pops to last for, providing the car is decelerating of course. If you wanna decel from a couple hundred clicks then set it to 20 or 30 seconds, it doesn't really matter.
That is the basic run down and should help anyone get their car making some noise.