Puffwagon

Oh well, something is not the same, it should be easy enough to work out what it isn't happy with. You'd have to add each main directory and when the car plays up you can remove it, then add each sub-directory, then add each parameter. Easy in theory but a lot of stuffing around driving it. If it works now and doesn't slip or bang into gear then the trans will be happy. Just for reference you will want lots of shift and line pressure on the high load and high rpm points at your power level. Remember that when you make a shift it will drop rpm and the pressure has to be there at the beginning of the next gear. 10 bar shift pressure and 17 bar line pressure is normal to keep it clamped immediately after a shift. Raise the shift pressures as needed to make sure the trans doesn't slip, but don't be afraid to raise them to where they need to be. Leave the very low load stuff as is or raise it very slightly, so it doesn't thud when it shifts with normal driving. Anyhow there is that, the car works now so happy days

Change the minimum dfso time (auF1265) to something higher than 1.2 seconds. This will stop the injectors turning off on decel for a longer amount of time. This will also increase the amount of time it pops and crackles while decelerating.

Ahh I see. This is very common when you turn them up as the trans doesn't have time to shift before it hits the rev limiter. Turn your rev limiter up a few hundred rpm and it should be sorted. You can always give it a performance trans tune to get it shifting quicker and harder too. This will help it shift before the stock limiter if you didn't want to raise it. I would just raise it tho, much easier lol.

Ok rather than confuse things, I took the latest upload and added all of the turbo parameters to that. In the previous uploads there were literally dozens of parameters that hadn't been updated that should have been. It is quite different and the car should feel much better. Nothing is modified however, so everything remains stock per the turbo tcm file that was uploaded. The fact that the trans was playing up before and is still doing the same thing with a different trans points to the trans not being the problem. Is there any further info you can give us that will help? What happened just before the trans started playing up, was the tune changed then? It is a na+t so the tune would have been touched at some point. Full PCM TCM 7723 with turbo tcm param changes.tec

Will have a look tomorrow and see what I can come up with. I recently bought a zf vehicle that had a solenoid fault in the trans and was stuck in 3rd aka limp mode. After swapping the solenoids over and filling the trans it wouldn't shift in auto mode, only manually for the first 10 minutes of driving or so. Then after a while it would shift gently but not at wot, same as yours. I got more fluid into it and it started shifting properly. That might have nothing to do with your car but at the very least it's worth making sure the fluid level is correct. Fill from dead cold, not at temp like the manual suggests. While I'm writing stuff, you can log what shift maps the trans uses while driving and you can adjust the shift points in them. I don't think this probably is the right way to go about it but it might be. Have a look at shift lock schedule and see the 50 something maps in there. Map 27 is manual mode so you have some idea of the numbers it will and wont auto shift at.

You can do this very quickly with the compare and apply function. You literally click every box on the compare side that you want, then hit apply and it swaps them all at once. Can you post up the turbo tcm tune and the na tcm tune so we can have a look?

I just switch mine off at all times with my TT. It's better for the driveline to reduce the shock loading.

Nice one, shouldn't be too hard to work out which one did the trick.

I was sure there was a parameter with a value of 40 for traction control and if you set it out of range it disables it. I can't find it tho but it might be it auF1716. I'm also fairly sure there was mention of it on the forum but again I can't find it.

It's worth a try, there's plenty of stuff that is different between an NA and a turbo tune.

So it could have just been one parameter rather than the whole calibration? The thread I linked says as much.

Nice work mate. It's good when stuff resolves easily, has to happen sometimes hey!

Maybe you do need to flash the calibration over too. According to a workshop manual it specifically says the calibration isn't matching when you have the U0301 code. If it works you will need to go through and change all the parameters to what the turbo box had in it. If that or other suggestions don't work, it's a fairly quick, albeit messy process to swap the TCM over.

You wanna merge the serial number from the old tcm to the new tcm. There are a couple of ways to do this but the quickest way is already on the forum. Open PCMTec, click Calibration Tools, click Create Stock File/Calibration Merge, then click Manually Merge Vid/Serial. You can see the various parts that can be swapped between files.

This may or may not be obvious but don't flash the na calibration into the turbo box, it already has a turbo calibration in it.

Yeah I was thinking about a different table axis when I said that. Either do what you've done or copy the 0.9 row to the 0.7 row.

It looks like the load axis he logged was tp raw. Fine if you want to see how much load there is at various tps and rpm points.

Changing it at low load is a waste of fuel imo. You want your car to use frig all fuel when tootling around but when you floor it you don't care. FYI you'll use about 20% more fuel for no gain if you change it in the low load areas. When you log it, you can see what load numbers it uses through the rpm range and at various throttle positions. It'll be along the 0.9 and 1.0 lines mostly at WOT. While you're logging, see what it is at 100kph cruise. It'll be around 0.4 load mostly. Even 50% tps will have around 0.8 load. Have a look at the most aggressive part of the WOT cam timing. It's easy to spot cos instead of positive numbers, it'll have negative numbers up to about 3000rpm or whatever. Copy this entire row and paste it to 0.8 load, up to the highest load point. Using this very simple method you'll have the extra acceleration that advancing the cam timing provides, while still keeping stock fuel economy at cruise. As far as testing the outcome you either put it on a real dyno or use virtual dyno. You'll feel it anyway, it makes quite a considerable difference to how the car drives. Something to keep in mind is this raises cylinder pressure at lower rpm so will tolerate less ign timing, but this isn't an issue when the knock sensors are switched on. Needless to say you have to run your car on 98 to realize power gains, anything less will have the knock sensors pulling timing non stop.

I can ask my ex, she found a reason to pull everyone else off 🙃

Ah I see, you weren't asking how to interface with the factory system to change it, you were talking about how to design a closed loop boost controller. I worked of the premise that you were talking about the original idea of engine safety strategies. Like this one?

You gotta send the tmap temp high to run the lower (hottest) line of the stock desired boost table. This is the part of the table that would send it back to gate pressure due to high iat's. Most people wouldn't run max boost in 6th gear so the same principle can be used with boost by gear. Ask Rolls or someone if the tmap switchover will override this. To have it drop to gate pressure in closed loop, you need to send a boost pressure signal that is higher than the desired boost setting but lower than the overboost setting. It is about 2psi over desired boost stock and will be adjusted to perhaps 5 psi when tuned. This would involve the tuner setting it up as it wouldn't be as simple as toggling a switch. As long as you send the right boost pressure signal it will go back to minimum wgdc, which is 0% stock, but may be higher with other setups. I can't think of anything offhand that would drop it to gate with a simple bit flip but there may be something. The stock boost control is great and an aftermarket system can't match it as far as I've seen. This is not the case for na+t vehicles so may have some merit there.

Ok idea time...a box that intercepts the can message for an zf6 upshift, it then does a brief map switch using the rear O2 sensor input to give adjustable ignition cut or even a spark cut rev limiter for pre FG vehicles. If upshift is detected (within set rpm range) change dwell time to 0us for X ms, if rpm exceeds value set dwell time to 0us ms until rpm drops to xxxxrpm. Something like that.

That would be cool to have a boost dial in the cabin combined with a 4 port boost solenoid. Some of the boost all the way up to all of the boost!

Haha I've literally never chosen to have the 2 fuel types when setting up the custom os. I just set one up for s and g and now I know there are a bunch more tunable areas. Haha you'd think I would have known this for years but I never set it up like that as I have been a slacker and not set up flex fuel for my car.

Think of holding down the cruise button as a momentary map switcher. After that there are 4 tunes available to be set up however you want.