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Everything posted by Puffwagon

  1. Here is a thread that might help. There are some files that have various data.
  2. I've attached a parameter file to this post which has the cold start settings for my territory on e85. The changes are to fuel cranking lambda, fuel base cold and fuel base cold decay. Worth noting is that although I have the decay set to a minute, my tune will switch to closed loop after 30 seconds. I might need to extend it but haven't had a play with it yet. The car started at 8C this morning with the attached settings. E85 cold start settings, fuel cranking lambda, fuel base cold and fuel base cold decay.param
  3. I think it was because resistfingerprinting was true in the browser.
  4. My browser was being a dickhead and posting the wrong time stamps on another forum. I just posted here to check if it was happening here. I think it would have taken 24 hours before the actual time came up on the post anyway.
  5. Testing the browser time.
  6. As an example of torque reduction, I tried loading the car up on the brake in 3rd gear at low rpm, before logging the run. The car felt very sluggish compared to just planting it with no brake boosting. When I reviewed the log, the throttle wasn't fully open until just after 4000rpm, which showed as a massive dip in the virtual dyno graph I made. I haven't gotten around to removing any torque reductions yet and I'm ok with that, as it rarely affects how the car drives, but in your case 20% throttle clearly needs sorting out.
  7. Is the throttle blade staying completely open while this is happening? The only way I can think of making 3 pounds at WOT via the tune is for the throttle to be closed for torque reduction.
  8. Yeah it's pretty crazy how complex it has become. After watching this clip it gave me a new appreciation for what you guys have achieved and also for being able to have the version of PCMTec that I have.
  9. Here's a clip that I thought would interest a lot of people on this forum.
  10. The reason I suggested logging fuel source is in case the cold map was causing the issue. The more channels you log, the more chance of noticing something happening, but I'm sure that's fairly obvious. So the stft is not causing it to do it? The fuel trim would react to an afr change like that but it's not moving before the afr changes? Is the nbo2 sensor all good? Sometimes the wiring can get hot and can melt, causing issues. Just brainstorming here, maybe it helps, maybe not.
  11. What are your trims doing just before and when this happens? Is there a tip in fuel thing that is used when it gets put into gear? What fuel source is it using when this happens? Is there some funky interpolating going on at this temp? Is there a large difference between the base fuel and cold fuel map that it's possibly switching between? Just a few things I would think of looking at, mebbe someone has something else to add?
  12. Interesting, I hadn't looked into that. I just opened a converted csv file and it looks like it updates 20 times per second.
  13. Hi mate, you can search by name as well. Even a partial name will start to bring up a list of tables etc that you can look through and choose from.
  14. Hey on the same subject how about exporting only the viewed area of the log? This would be handy rather than having to dig through and cut out the data from an excel file.
  15. @Blackxr6t If you or anyone else needs it done you can always ask on the forum and there might be someone local to you with a workshop version that will do it for you. That way you'd only have to pay the cost of the credits for re-licensing and possibly some beer money. Am I on the right track here @Roland@pcmtec?
  16. Any chance we can get a feature to export part or all of datalog to a csv file so it can be opened in excel, virtual dyno etc?
  17. This is what I've done in hp tuners back in the day. I've used the "cold enrich decay" to add fuel at startup for about 20 seconds. Try 0.1 across the board at zero seconds interpolated down to 0.01 at 20 to 30 seconds. You might want to go through your "fuel base cold" table and add a bunch there too as it is fairly lean when stock. There is a table called "cold enleanment" that appears to counteract the cold base table but I haven't used it. Depending on how cold the weather is and how much ethanol is in the mix you might want to extend the time that it takes to swap from open to closed loop (base fuel enable time). All of that is in the Fuel>Open loop/Base tab. The cranking fuel should be fine as it is very rich anyway. It is in the Fuel>General tab. But yeah I haven't played with it yet in PCMTec so gimme a couple of weeks and I either will or wont have anything else to add regarding e85 cold start.
  18. The way I avoid cold shocking the wb sensor is to not let the sensor heater warm up before I start it. Just get in, let the fuel pump prime for a second and hit the starter. I'm pretty sure I read that in a wb instructional manual.
  19. Aaaayyyyyy. Is it possible to make the vertical scrolling line in the data logger responsive to the cursors at all times instead of after a left click? Also because the line is at the far left or far right after highlighting an area of the log, when you go to click the line to move it, it will move the highlighted area of the log which is annoying. That's all I can think of right now but already I'm liking this software a lot more than hpt, especially the super fast partial write times and the fact that the data logger and tuning navigator are in the same program.
  20. It would appear that it doesn't matter but there are so many tables linked together, that changing one by zeroing it out can affect many others. For this reason I leave it alone and also there is too much stuffing around with the timing map to get the same result. But at then end of the day you're tuning the car, not the pcm. If the car is running right, correct afr and timing and still has the factory fail-safes working how you want them, then however you choose do it is ok. That's my opinion on things anyway.
  21. Relying on the knock sensors will leave you 2 to 3 degrees short. These motors are severely knock limited on 98 octane so it's very easy to find peak power by listening to the engine. Nothing wrong with road tuning, it will get you the same result as a dyno, if you have a set of matrix goggles.
  22. Yeah I dunno why they are so different. You can follow where the engine moves through the map by watching the rpm, load and timing and then you can see how it responds to adding or removing timing down low/off boost. Re your last post, I dunno what's up with the timing table. It looks like it isn't really suited for anything. It's got more timing where it should have less, and less timing where it should have more. Maybe it's set up to run a 100 shot while on e85 🤣
  23. That depends on your mods etc. I would choose whatever map came out of your car to start with as the low and medium load stuff will be where you want it. You also need to consider the corrections for iat, lambda etc and cam timing. As these aren't mentioned with the timing maps you posted you can't just say which one is better. BUT If I had to pick from the 3 maps you've posted I would go with the third one as that is the closest to the actual numbers most people modding a fairly stock vehicle will end up with on 98 octane. To fix the map slightly I'd copy the 1.8 load values and paste them to the 2.4 load values. Then I'd interpolate the vertical cells from 1.6 load to 2.4 load. It'll need some more fiddling but it'd be very close. Before you did that you'd want to log it and see where the timing is and go from there. Then of course you need to log what happens afterwards and have some knock detection gear on hand so you don't hurt the motor. It depends on how much load you've got, but no. A load of 2.4 is roughly 20 to 24psi depending on where in the rev range it is. With the size of the motor and the size of a stock turbo you would want to have a larger timing number below the boost threshold to get it (the vehicle) making more power and moving quicker. If you had a giant turbo then you might decide to change the timing to get it spooling quicker but generally you don't do that. As always, that's just my opinion. With all of that said you need to work this out yourself for the car in question, but it's a starting point.
  24. I just set up my techedge and it was straight forward. 0V = 9 afr and 5V = 19 afr. With the equation, I literally put a 9 and a 19 in the first and second cells respectively in the right column and it was done. It will interpolate between the first 2 vertical cells so there is no need to use the entire column.
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