Braydenapps

I would assume it wouldn't be PCMTEC tuner locked as PCMTEC tuner lock is scrambled OSID and also online locked? I'll try reflash HAANFHZ strategy via FORScan

Hey Bill is there any way to correct that without needing Workshop edition? I'm only on Enthusiast currently.

I'll do some logging shortly. In recovery mode:

I'll dig in to it. Have just bought an Optima D34 yellow top battery, which is basically the best money can buy. Plus being in the boot I don't want any fumes which lead acids produce - I had holes and tubing to vent anyways. https://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/94692-ba-ecu-sct-locked/ Roland mentions the following "Go see a tuner with PCMTEC, they can edit the SCT tune or flash it back to stock at no cost, takes less than 5 minutes." in response of OP saying "Went off to get it tuned using Hp tuners but tuner stated he cant communicate with ECU as its been flashed with SCT. I don't have the SCT as. I bought the car without knowledge of it being tuned." That was back in early 2019 though. Not sure if anything has changed regarding reading SCT tunes since, or whether or not it will read locked SCT tunes. Found no information on HPT being able to tuner lock Falcon PCMs (though it can with GM PCMs).

And for the price of a TR6060 conversion I could probably grab my hands on around 30 running BTRs.

Noted for future reference. Just got a hold of my spare BTRs as of a couple of hours ago. Will be on box #3 shortly (the left one which came out a mate's car, actually works alright). #1 was the turbo box on the right. Blown though (crunchy gears except in third, metal flakes all over the pan when we dropped it out to swap with #2), so I will be rebuilding with E series 26mm oil pump, AU planetaries, better bands etc. #2 currently in car, lost reverse. Technically, car drives. Rolls when off (no park). Reverse acts as a poor man's transbrake - stalls up and can dump into neutral (forward lmao) or drive. Up near 3k the car starts to jolt in reverse. Like a bump box but reverse haha. Neutral is drive. Drive is drive, and tiptronic works. FORScan logs P, N, D as gear 3 or 4, reverse as vice versa. Tiptronic is indicated correctly, 1 through 4th. Suspected blown/welded together clutch packs. If a solenoid well I will just pull one out of #1 box on right. Why am I writing all of that, you may ask? I have a XR6T which I'm planning to push 400-500rwkw through (and eventually TR6060 swap to see 800-900rwkw - if I couldn't manage to have a BTR hold that sort of power which I admit wouldn't happen. Only know of one car, the old ICER red BA XR6T which was sold - owner listed it at like 760rwkw through a DTM(?) or maybe Preston built BTR, tuned by Dynomite), and want to keep it controlled by the factory PCM at all costs due to being able to modulate solenoid pressures, torque reduction, shift points etc. AFAIK the intermediate shaft is the weakest point on the BTR, once "fully" built. Casing is small but really we should see some more aftermarket support for such cheap and plentiful boxes.

Gotta rewrite it actually as I am using common power and earth instead of separate, along with other half assed wiring just to get it up and running to test (works fine with some latency, should be fine after I wire it in properly). Apparently heater power off the fuel pump relay is mint, was told on Facebook if the car stalls then the wideband will also not be heated. Currently have it running off the factory O2 sensor heater power, connected to the HEGO fuse in the engine bay fusebox.

Hey all, I'm using an OBDX Pro FT cable with my Ford Falcon BA MKII XR6 Turbo. While FORScan connects to my car fine, PCMTEC brings up an error as below: Unfortunately recovery mode does not work either. My PCM is a Black Oak, turbo & BTR, being a BA MKII. Apologies for my laptop being absolutely filthy, I nearly never use it and didn't think to clean the screen before taking a photo of it (could not be bothered to take a screenshot as I only really use my desktop rig with much better specifications). Car had gone through a few owners before it ended up in my hands a few years ago, though a big name shop in Perth had tuned it (dyno sheet in glovebox) - paid them a visit and was told PCMTEC would have been used - in this case a tuner locked dialog should show. Was under a different owner name to the guy I bought it off, who apparently had it (re)tuned(?) - if so I have no clue if it was with PCMTEC or SCT or HPT as it has been three years since I bought it and I have finally got around to giving the car some extra modifications. Although my battery has been playing up and I had to jumpstart my car to get it running - think it might be finally cooked. Should I chuck an Optima yellow top in? Had a Century but cooked itself after two years - Supercheap Auto copped out and told me my warranty wouldn't be honoured due to battery relocation to boot (though everything has been wired correctly, good ground and 70mm2 cable with high rated isolator). I couldn't tell you the look on his face when he came out to my car and asked to pop the bonnet, then showed him the battery in my boot 😁. Have chucked in a truck battery (800 CCA iirc) which has worked fine till recently. Also just wired in a Spartan 3 wideband kit with JRP gauge a few days ago - will be rewiring it to mount permanently as I was just testing the kit which works (was using common power and earth, which they specify to only do separately). Don't think that is a factor. BTR is cooked - drives but no reverse, all gear selections are stuck in drive (correct indicators show on dash) and reverse acts as a poor man's transbrake. With car off it simply rolls in all gears, no park. FORScan logs P, N, D as gear 3, R as gear 4. Tiptronic works fine. Have just got a hold of my spare BTRs so car should be back on the road as a daily soon - which needs to happen before Christmas as I'll make the 600km drive back to Perth from Kalgoorlie for my Christmas break to see family and friends. Cheers everyone and thanks for your time

May sound stupid, but maybe a diode?

Hey blokes, am currently wiring in 14point7's Spartan 3 with a Just Race Parts wideband gauge as part of JRP's kit https://www.justraceparts.com.au/spartan-3-can-wideband-gauge-kit-52mm. You can tap into the HEGO 15V fuse in the engine bay fusebox. Or do what I'm doing and cut the factory narrowband O2 sensor off its loom and have the Bosch LSU 4.9 wideband sensor in place of the factory narrowband sensor, and feed the emulated narrowband output back to the loom. You are bound to kill a sensor if it is heated BEFORE starting the car. The instructions for wideband kits specify to heat AFTER ignition.

BTRs can be swapped without having to be recoded unlike the ZF. New trans likely has issues.

Hey mate I'm wiring up a Spartan 3 to my BA MKII XR6T. Was gonna finish it tonight but been buggered after work, I'll give you a rundown once it's hooked up. Am using the factory narrowband bung to wire the wideband Bosch LSU 4.9 O2 sensor and feeding back narrowband output to the loom. In fact I have cut the narrowband O2 sensor off its loom so I can hook the four wires up respectively without chopping into the fuse box. Will run the wideband sensor and the Spartan 3 unit from the factory narrowband power/heater wire, as the sensor and Spartan are only to be powered on once the car is started and I'm not a fan of killing things unnecessarily. Though I do thrash the living hell out of my Falcon and I'll be on my third BTR shortly.

Are all of those parameters @BeerTurbo listed available in the Professional version of PCMTEC? Not that it really matters as I won't be tuning my car myself currently but just wanting to know for future reference. Cheers. Thinking of pushing 400rwkw through a stock NA BTR with a large trans cooler and adjusted S5 solenoid.

Hey, sorry in advance as there is quite a lot to read and answer here. I've been considering purchasing a licence for PCMTEC, possibly Workshop edition for full access to the PCM if the single vehicle version ends up being released as Roland discussed here https://forum.pcmtec.com/topic/1210-update-on-when-we-can-access-20/?do=findComment&comment=7455. I am located in Perth, WA and own a Ford Falcon BA MKII XR6 Turbo, which already appears to have been tuned to just over 240rwkw, given as there is a dyno sheet in the glovebox from when I purchased the vehicle. I would like to ask some questions and learn some information from this forum as I know practically zero about tuning and want to learn how to tune so I can do most of the work to my car and not have to drive it back and forward to a tuner 24/7 every time I would do a modification that requires a retune. Am fully aware that the Falcon PCM is extremely complicated and so will be a huge learning curve for me. On top of that I have no experience with tuning. Hopefully next year my bank account will be happier and allow me to go ahead with some modifications that I want to DIY instead of paying tons of $$ in labour + tuning to do so. So yeah currently have: BA turbo engine, spaghetti rods that I want to change out for a BF green top with the usual supporting mods - a good set of valve springs + retainers, head studs, billet oil pump gears and backing plate (possibly port the pump too), MLS head gasket, maybe timing chain and tensioner and flex plate with ARP bolts. GT3576 from FG, wanting to eventually go with a Pulsar GTX3584RS GEN 3 (rated to 1000hp at the crank) or G42-1200/1450 on a twin-scroll manifold, as from what I've heard having a larger turbo will increase lag but can push power towards the top end of the rev range, my intent is to save the factory egas bottom end to possibly ~400rwkw on 98 to mid 500-600rwkws on E85 which has already been done by a handful of people. External gate will be ran off the turbine housing for better boost control as I've heard there are mixed results running a wastegate from the exhaust manifold. BTR/ION 4 speed auto transmission with a big PWR trans cooler behind the front grille, I intend to push the BTR to the absolute limits even if this includes rebuilding it with better parts from E series/AU BTR trans, possibly aftermarket parts as well + a high stall converter. Have heard these can hold over 400-500rwkw if tuned and built correctly with torque reduction on gear changes etc. If staying with a BTR is not feasible at high power I will do a ZF or TR6060 conversion. Factory BA turbo PCM, from what I've been told these are crap compared to the BF and FG PCMs. If it is possible I would like to know if I can swap a BF turbo PCM into my BA and run the BTR from it? I am aware I will need to buy a good quality cable such as a genuine Tactrix Openport 2.0 cable for a few hundred bucks. Also aware I may need knock detection equipment such as knock ears. Though not sure if it is necessary as the Barra has 1 knock sensor already on the BA motor and 2 on BF and later engines - am I able to trust these? Will probably be datalogging and tuning on the streets to get most of the tuning done followed by a trip to a dyno to pretty much perfect it. Planned work: Above, egas engine with supporting mods; larger turbo + exy gate off rear housing; keeping/building BTR until I absolutely need to change trans; changing PCM for BF or FG if possible. I'm intending to do a multi-tune (cruising/parents/missus tune, low boost, high boost, wanker tune) with flex fuel 98/E85 using Pirotta's flex fuel kit with wideband O2 sensor - I'm lucky to have two United stations with E85 near me but I plan to keep my car as a daily driver so need 98 octane still. Will set up a wanker tune for ghost cams, crackle on decel, and other wank factor stuff. Might have anti lag/two step on high boost tune. Supporting mods such as fuel system, probably going to DIY a surge tank set up with a Walbro 460 or 535/540 LPH pump feeding a surge tank with a couple of more pumps + rising rate fuel pressure regulator allowing plenty of fuel to be fed to the motor with 1250cc or 1650cc injectors. Not wanting to muck around with the risk of possibly leaning out the engine enough to go kaboom. 4 inch exhaust with a high flow 100 or 200 cell cat for plenty of flow and minimal back pressure. Powertune digital dash + CAN extender, maybe run some other gauges off the CAN bus too. Oil pressure, voltage, temps, boost, not to mention wideband sensor to read AFR as above etc. Upgraded brakes, already have PBR fronts but won't trust these with anywhere above 400rwkw. If I'm going above 500-550rwkw I will be installing a stronger two-piece tailshaft and CVs, possibly upgrade the M86 diff to truetrac and run a IMS twin bush diff hat. Am awaiting on Superpro diff bushes to arrive and install as my current bushes are flogged out. Might also replace the centre tailshaft bearing as it has a bit of play. Also wanting to know if I can lockout 4th gear in the BTR on high load/torque as I've been told 4th is weak. Want to be able to then change to 4th while cruising in low load scenarios to have better fuel economy than if I were to disable 4th completely. So I'm wondering if everything planned is feasible and also if I can DIY it all myself or simply leave it to the big boys in town? Will probably add to this thread and also answer or ask more questions if needed. Cheers!