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BeerTurbo

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Everything posted by BeerTurbo

  1. my setup would just randomly go into ETC mode. so etc light on dash and return to idle sounding like antilag as its in protection mode. i dont run the fg plastic on this car anymore, but i had a look through the old file. auF0082 - set to FG na. auF0075 - max tb - still set to b series 83 auF0083 - set to B series config, all under pedal is std. i think there is where i got into trouble hitting error codes playing in here. auF12805 - i dont have acess to being professional version. so std.
  2. did you get anywhere with the canbus logging? i need another wideband for road tuning and was looking at the AEM one with the can bus module https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/dashes_and_gauges/wideband_gauges/x_series_obd2_can_bus_wideband/parts/30-0334
  3. i like that scientific. went over a couple of the dyno logs and after 5500 rpm it starts slowly going down but it only goes to 96KPA.
  4. oh sorry im talking NA
  5. old mate here said there is a small gain in running two throttle bodys. https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=2262823637210304 just seems overkill to go two std 70mms and that's why i wondered if the Shelby twin 60mm would be benifical at all.
  6. Hey just wondering on anyone's experience fitting larger throttle bodys to a barra? I have seen the dual std setup but wondered how a big single or event the gt500 twin throttle goes? is there any easy alternative the std pcm is happy with?
  7. Na fg is 2.7 bar. So its a 1.3 bar rise. I go in my own head reading injectors sheets. Its wasn't allways a set number raise for pressure differential on injectors. I couldn't find any sheets on the fg longnoses, so i kinda gave up. I just fitted the fg f6 injectors and went on my way.
  8. Did you have any further play with the cam timming? Get any noteworthy results?
  9. yeah i compared the b series and the high slopes were 1.23 and low slopes 1.31 more from 3 to 4 bar. I used that calculation and the car starts and revs fine. but id be using the std ford 02 to dial them in any futher. the local place I usually get my wideband i like is out of stock and for some reason there more from online retailers. been tossing up pulling the wideband from the terry to dial it in, or fit the f6 injectors i have > but im just skeptical about the lack of long nose.
  10. Howdy Wondered if anyone wanted to share there injector data for the na fg injectors at 4 bar? Just being a bit lazy and haven't put the wideband in this car. Cheers
  11. Bosch 627cc/min EV14 Injectors 0 280 158 123* i used these on my bf/turbo r31. i found they were near impossible to dial in with the 2.7bar factory regulator. i found some flow information whitch indicated they dident like opening at 2.5bar and i figured at idle maybe that's why i was having issues. so with a 4 bar regulator, this is what i was last using.
  12. My wife said i could turbo her rav4 at end of warranty... That must be soon.. maybe she needs a whirly boi n noise maker
  13. desired boost of 10 is 4.9 psi because its in INHG. in your log your duty cycle is 0 as your boost error is huge out of the get go. your hitting 20 psi and a bit of timing are you running e85? i hope so. you have more of a mecanical issue to diagnose before playing with the boost controler. bypass the boost controler and data log the boost you get. thats your baseline
  14. Howdy, i was thinking of running this fg we have for skids on e85. now i have a 4 bar reg i can put in it.... will that be enough injector size to run e85 on a pretty stock na barra? i believe that will get me from 27lb hr to just over 34lb hr with the scaling. so that would be, 25 percent more? has anyone done this and can give real world injector requirements. cheers
  15. AUF16463 - for fun you can use basic math to try get it in the ballpark, but there are a lot of mechanical factors at play... so say you have a 7 psi spring and you want 10psi, 10/7=1.42...so in theroy you need about 0.42 of boost control to get your desired boost. now remember what i just said, theres a ton of mecanical factors at play and you see the table goes through ll the temp , as that plays a big afect to. leave closed loop boost control on, data log and see how close the boost error and wg duity are. target boost table can be whatever you want. 13.8 is measured in inhg, so its commanding 6.7psi. personally i like to slow ramp the boost in around 2000 rpm range and ramp into boost around 3k. it would be advisable when playing to play in the higer areas anyway you dont want an overboost to runaway on you. you will notice there is a temp value here to, so i like to target gate pressure when the air is hot, like over 75 degrees or so. leave every thing else standard while your playing and have done a few data logs to understand how its all plays out. actually thats wrong, change your under boost duity cycle from 1 to whatever your higest value in your closed loop table is. for me with a 10 psi spring, if it goes overboot and hits one it could try smash 20 psi in? if you follow.
  16. Agreed. Was on r31 wen was na, then turbo. So both But ive used em on my ba na shitcar n a mates barra au ute. Just tell yourself its lower iat and 10 hp.
  17. I do the swap for the better placement of throttle body. I hate the engine crossover. I cant speak for power upgrades as i dont have a dyno. I figure both tb are same size so no need to change, but fg is more slimline so it might suit more people applications. In my head i figgure the plastic intake is cooler and less prone to engine bay heat soak to.
  18. i actually put it on the list for tomorrow. so now its adjust handbrake and drink beer. big list. i also just reading the old bf launch control thread and realized i never touched auF2233 , so ill try that tomorrow too.
  19. so its been a while. i was playing with this again today and i have a question. i have my min spark set to -20 and in my spark retards for testing it was set to pull 80 at any amount of tq reduction request. on the brake, get tq reduction request, but it only ever goes to around -12 . i figured with such drastic spark retard table it should instantly hit spark min clip. any thoughts?
  20. Oh god no. Its been vq30det then rb25 now nothing in the bay. Ill probably throw a barra in next, since every other car i have is barra powered now.
  21. i would personally change to a turbo fuel pressure regulator and get a e85 fuel pump. if your doing it on the cheap. ive used the sniper upgraded fuel pot in nearly all my cars now, guy sells them on ebay they are 1l instead of 500ml. he has a 300ish lph e85 pump. Most of the true e85 fuel pumps are quite large and you really dont need that big of a fuel system. now ive had to replace all the fuel lines on my ba ute thats e85 only as it ate the stock lines and left black dissolved crap in the injectors and in the fuel cell. if your staying e85 re do all the stock soft lines, in tank and quick connect ones too. otherwise be sure to run it on normal fuel for a bit to wash it out before parking the car up. i dont have flex on my terry but when i put e85 in it for drags, i just set that stoich setting to 9.7 and the fueling is in the ballpark. we dont really have cold starts but you can play with the startup timing on e85 makes my ute start a hella lot better anyway.
  22. i bricked my territory once when i turned it off mid write. I was lucky and was able to set the write mode to recovery and then re write it all back and fixed it up. without any can you might be in trouble. back in he day i bricked a powerfc for the sr20 twice, one was me doing some bad wiring and the other was an engine bay fire. anyway there was a guy that i think posts on the nistune forums, had a business checking ecus and he ficed it both times. it might actually have been mat from nistune.
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