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BeerTurbo

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Everything posted by BeerTurbo

  1. Just on this, in my territory i changed auF1265 from 1.2s to 8Secionds as suggested auF0228 to 10 deg from 1500 rpm. (i have used other values with success in my e85 car, but this is 98r road car) on decel the zf just changes gear so nothing really happens. if you put it in manual gear selection and get a deceleration, it will make some popping noises (mine also still has a high flow cat and two high flow mufflers so they will dull it down)
  2. My shitter had a slow start and a bit of a stutter on idle... I used the base idle fuel map to add a fair bit more fuel, the std falcon map leans out quite quickly. well compared to nissans im used to. Used the idle adder with ECT to add 100 idle untill around 60 deg. Car started much nicer and was happyier...still had an idle stumble. > battery was bad - changed to new battery and car started instantly and the stumble/miss is gone. i know this is no help to your bwm start, but i figgure its helpfull note that making it richer and idle higher is prob not a bad idea.
  3. now there is data log it may be easier to find this out.
  4. just having a flick thro the manual now. two points caught my eye * i think i used a shorter bung, may double check. A 1” bung (provided in the kit) will best protect the sensor. When fully threaded, the sensor’s tip will sit flush with the inside of the exhaust piping, this does not adversely effect the readings. * as puff said : Do not pre-warm the sensor before starting the engine, start the engine as you normal would. Allowing the sensor to pre-warm before starting the engine will increase the possibility of damaging the sensor from shock-cooling. - Im pretty sure having the wide-band controlled from the factory ford o2 will remove any possible shock loading
  5. My second 02 is off and disabled, using details from another thread. as im not using that plug for anything, does it still fire the pwm controlled heater circuit? as it may be a nicer way to get my wide-band ON I guess i could do some testing.
  6. you have peaked my interest. Does the ecm 1) only run this with engine running 2) have a delayed start feature for moisture/whatever reason ?
  7. cheers Rolland. The unit was new when i bought it, and had it roughly in the car 6 months before it played up. this was about 3-4 months ago now as i've been ignoring i due to having a kid. But its come time for a general service so i may as well fit a new sensor. Its mounted facing 2 oclockish, so its fairly upward. Its connected to the cars 12v - i did wonder if turning the key to ignition annoys it, as it does turn on for a sec, then off while cranking then back on again. Perhaps i might put a switch inline and just turn it on when i want to watch it, or only when cars at temp like you say, no longer spitting water.
  8. on a side note, i'm ruining a Innovative mtxl with the bosh 4.9 wide-band sensor, just before the cat and the sensor is apparently dead. looking up the tune in my car cat overtemp is still on and is set to std 873 deg C. Looks like the 4.9 sensor max temp is 930 deg C curious to know how often they would actually get to that temperature. Have seen a few people place copper sheet around the 02 to sheild the body from heat, perhaps this is where the fault comes from...even so it says the body is raited to 500deg C In one of the forums a poster said they dont like going from fuel to no fuel conditions. perhaps a heat sheild and a little tickle to the fuel shutoffs are in order?
  9. the turbo has a smaller flapper for controlling boost, which is fine with a restrictive exhaust - however if you fit a higher flowing exhaust the boost is going to spike and increase as the std turbo cant release enough gas quickly enough. for reference i had a Ba Na motor with the turbo gear attached -so yeah higher compression... but with the 3inch straight through exhaust and connections straight to the std wastegate actuator (4.5psi) the car was easily hitting 8 psi of boost before we backed off (it was trying to go higher but we also ran outa fuel) lots of different ways to get around this, for the stock look you can port the flapper valve to a larger diameter (std is 33mm and common to port to 37mm) an external gate is a great way to control boost, ive personally installed turbo-smart 45mm waste-gates on both mine. The new gen2 gtx turbo with xr6 housing has the option for a pre ported 39mm exhaust flapper.
  10. I bought a wiring adapter, and was going to install one one mine.... but never got around to it. so this is proberly not helpful
  11. BeerTurbo

    Merry Xmas

    Late to the party, but back at ya Puffy! Hope it was full of many barra related presents.
  12. I know ive asked before and you have said no one else has really requested it, but its been some time so i was wondering if anyone else has request boost maps based on transmission modes? L/h boost for D/P modes? + is activation of the launch control mode possible when your on the brake and touching accelerator > instead of holding cruse control?
  13. Hi Mate, i cant say specifically if the BF has the same VSS input as the BA ecu does, but it wont hurt to just look over the ecu and see if the pins free. http://www.fordmods.com/fordmods-technical-documents-diy-f38/ford-ba-ecu-pcm-pinouts-t126928.html PCM Pin B7……...................……….Vehicle Speed Signal VSS what sort of speed input do you have on the coaster? will need to be a 5v square wave type. shiftkitsaustralia helped me by making a box that converted the abs AC signal to a square wave signal for the ba VSS input, this is how i was able to get speed input from a car without ABS module from factory.
  14. there is a verry good boost information thread on here mate, give it a read. once it hits over-boost it will do forms torque reduction. so check your desired boost table and the overboost table to calculate the boost required before reduction...7psi might be low enough to trigger it at some stages as i think its 4.5psi over table request, but read up on the threads here. in your case i would not have the electronic boost control connected and use the bare minium mechanical boost control avalible to you until you understand whats your doing. look at your desired fuel table and you need to aim for something close to that.....so at idle your can do stoich and when your turbos on boost you want it around 11.8 afr and not overly higher....... and you will need to pay with your speed D tables. but im with rolland, get a tuner to have a play first.
  15. recently did a track day and people were commenting on another barras decel pop, so i asked the guy and he said his tuner set 10deg on decel. i had a quick play with mine and for the video had the higher rpm set to -2 I could notice it at 10, at -2 it was verry noticable...i ended up leaving it at 6 and it was fine for me....this was straight thro exhaust and e85. after reading the antilag thread i might try and give the 2-3k range bulk fuel and max spark clip to see it it helps spool the turbo, might be a while before i see the track again for testing tho.
  16. hi, You might want to look at changing your valve-springs, otherwise depending on the kms of the engine they could start floating as early as 8-10 psi. auF0117 Stoichiometric Air Fuel Ratio, when using e85 try it around 9.7 your going to have to get your car tuned by a professional to create a fuel /spark map, there is to many variables and no one is going to want to be liable for giving your this over the internet. there is a good thread here on understanding the SDT ford uses, this is how you get your car in the ballpark of the target afr's after changing injectors/turbo/exhaust/intakes. as for spark you proberly going to want to pull timing if your doing it yourself, because without a dyno and knock ears your going to have no idea whats going on. with e85 you proberly wont notice knock until the pistons melted.
  17. I ended up solving this, but not myself... I spoke with ShiftKitsAus about there tail-shaft sensor, but he said he could knock me up a custom converter to use the AC style output from ABS sensor to DC square-wave input the Barra ecu required. He knocked this up with a divisor of 4, as the abs ring had 50 teeth...he said this will give me close to std output. This is all working , but i cant test gps to output speed reading as my yards not that big ahahaha This weekend on the track ill be able to see how accurate it is, if its out ill be able to use AUF0393 to fine tune it. cheers
  18. cheers, the front has the ABS rings and mounts - possibly because i replaced the hubs with new ones and the arms , so there is a level of convenience to use them now. I'm finding out the abs sensors output is not linear square wave 5v output like the original sensor, so ill need to look for an alternative option or converter to boost the signal from them. the tail-shaft mounts look good, but i have the turbo diff flange that the premade kit wont bolt to.
  19. do you know if the two speed sensor types output the same type of output? voltage or frequencies? i was hoping i could just connect one of the wheel speed sensors, inline with a jaycar speed converter back into the std loom and adjust till vaguely accurate.
  20. Howdy Ive recently changed my ba+t from a t5z with a t5 rear housing and speedo drive to a t56 setup. The t56 does not have a speedo drive output. the chassis is the base model, so it has no ABS or Wheel speed sensors..so this leaves me without speed input. will the ECU care? if it does, what can i change to make it happy? its not a road car so i cant road test it first and id rather not rock up to the track to find out ive got a limp mode due to speed source. seciondarly, the speedo drive has a three wire plug...can i install a 2 pin wheel speed sensor and then wire it through this gearbox input. to get something ? cheers
  21. looks like a cheap way to do things, pitty there no decent e85 availability in WA
  22. Can you just cheat and bump the idle up 150 or so rpm?
  23. that setting is for a fg based computer, not the bf based computer we have in the territory. i was not able to find a DC on gear-change in my config. turbos barras have a known problem where as you fit a higher flow exhaust, the turbo works to efficiently and the size of the stock wastgate is not generally large enough to vent boost at higher pressures/better exhausts. what sort of boost spike are you talking about?
  24. thats a big jump... most injectors would go from 1000cc to 1150 or so cc with 4 bar regs......was this tested on flow bench? otherwise id be back to considering leaky injectors causing bad afr readings
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