BeerTurbo

i would have thought the std injectors run at the turbo 4 bar fuel pressure would have them scalled well beyond what a NA motor would need. that would have been cheap, and the data is allready there for the turbo injector scalling. but tomatos tomatos, if you have your injectors dialed in it wont afect its runing any. i have the tuner nerd knock monitors. i think they were around $400 but looking now there a bit more. https://tunernerd.com/en-au/products/knock-monitor-pro-v3

Why do you have 650 cc injectors on a Na? Stock timing probably fine. Could try adding a couple of degrees from 3-6 k in high load. You will want an acurate knock listening devices tho. Data log standard tho, make sure std not knocking. You could have bad sensors, rattly cat, lose bolt all sorts of things. When tuning you need to start off all problems fixed

on my r31 bf+t the trans will snap throught 1-2 and 2-3rd shifts but allways seems to mismatch the 4th shift. its verry frustrating as it will drop out of boost and lose wheel speed. id love to know if its possible to fast shift it. it is a na trans tho, might be hating life.

Yeah figgured it would be secret. I prefer vss inputs and falcon dash on my conversions. Just local guy asked to delete pats, then wen on to say he has no vss. I have a ba skidder n know unpluging the abs the car actually turns of after about 3 mins. So there must be a timmer.

Hi team. Does anyone want to share the secret of running the engine without a vss input? Ta,

forums are def best for referencing older posts and information. facebook search and post flow is the worst for finding old information. only good for latest comment/todays things.

+ you have posted the details of the car, but not the one thing you need : location.

Hi Mate the vct was prob going out of range to corect for the stall or drop in rpm. while the O2 sensor is good info, cause it tells the car what's to do its not the whole picture. You need a wideband to be comparing the actual fueling. when its cold it adds more fuel. as puffy said you have increased airflow. so there is a chance you need to add fuel to the map - but without a wideband you wont know for sure. your o2 readings look normal, but your o2 could be inaccurate and it will be fracking everything. as puffy said, needs a tune.

i found super rich on spark retard muffled the noise, lean was better but you could also get noise around 0.9 super rich on spark cut was gunshots. but would prob kill your cat and stuff.

You really need to go and understand the torque sources and the way the pcm works. the fg zf will do cylinder cut, you can make a b series do cylinder cut but its no where near as refined for shifting and your basically making the car run like shit if you do this Log the transmission TQ request on shift. for zf being transmission shift modulation. auF2565, should be 3. change : auF1479. LAMBSE Default when Torque Source = 0. Change this to a number. id start around 0.90. auF0262 : Spark torque management, change transmission shift modulation to 1 auF0261 : other TQ reductions. change shift modulation to around 0.6. auF0265/auF0264 change this so the throttle blades not used. now the cars going to try cylinder cuts on shifts. but its basically terrible. ~ turn yourself around and try it the other way. huge spark cuts on shift. auF2565, should be 3. change : auF1479. LAMBSE Default when Torque Source = 0. Change this to a number. id start around 0.90. auF0262 : Spark torque management, change transmission shift modulation to 0 auF0261 : other TQ reductions. change shift modulation to default 0 auF0265/auF0264 change this back to std. change max spark retard, i cant advise here i think its -15 by default... but go into the antilag thread and look at that information. change auF0263 to whatever you want, make it more. your then telling the car to cut huge amounts of spark-with fuel-on gearchange. now there to much information in here but I feel i need to say this, all of this shit will proberly damage your car and its not my fault if you try it. learn about what the stuff does first before playing with.

send me the file, ill see if i can dig up an old one of mine and compare

Yeah the caravan load definitely had throttle around 280 tps counts minimum.

Hi Guys, i data lodged cruse control shift map and got pattern 35/actual map 35,36,37. so as i was towing i wanted to disable 6th, so i did this in the oss. hookup caravan, still goes into 6th. noticed it also hits map 38. checked map 38 and it looks like the towing mode as it also has no 6th in the oss. noticeably when i copy the maps over to drive patterns, it stays in 5th. anyway....is there another reason cruse control might be changing into 6th? even tho the map says not to? ta

fg has a more advanced tq reduction mode where it does a cylinder cut/based on tq reduction and shift time. bf do not have this, you can change the tq retard method over to the bf version of fuel/cylinder cut...but tbh it drives horibly and it never hits right. usually it will do cyl cut for to long. your better off in my opnion leving the spark retard, its the quickest method for bf shift.

Cheers for the update. Some good info. Yeah i cant be bothered pining the acc pedal to match bf ecu tho haha.

im about to do this for a mates conversion (au bf gassy na petrol converted ba loom with au t5) i have three ecus to choose from, will it matter whitch one ABU-242 A3AD, ABU-242 A3AA and ABU-212 32AL. is there a preference for the PCM to use, or just use any 242 as the way i understand it thats a later hardware spec? (is it faster?)

turbo map sensor. check. do you have the 4 bar turbo fuel pressure sensor? how do you know its rich, do you have a AFR gauge installed?

i might check the ground wire also. i never got mine reading rpm right. i ended up just having the audible alert and trying to remember where it was.

thermostat is a thing of the past with this one, its just for skids mainly, so the temps dont really matter.

this setup worked as expected. low fan on after temp1 and then fan2 started after tmp2 and fan 1 remained on. my fans are not good enough to cool it down under threshold so i couldn't test if HSF drooped out.

that single fan looks like it has an inbuilt resistor (or whatever is required to drop volts) in the fan itself to allow for low speed in the fan itself. i think ill just have a play and work it out through trial and error. cheers for the diagrams.

i thought they all had two fans, minus some fgs? i know on the ef low speed relay fed both the fans in series so they were slower and then high speed they connected in parallel. i thought the config read some similar to this because it turns of the low speed fans then 1-2 degree more turns on the high speed fans (the way im reading it)

Hi Guys can someone clear this up for me. for the Bf pcm - the fan config is it set so the LS fans turn of when the HS fan comes on? is there a way to make this so the LS fan comes on above a certain temp and the HS fans come on above a different temp , but the ls fan stays on? just in this conversion the radiator has one 12 and one 14inch fan on it, was hoping to run both indipendantly. and what is the HEDF?

until you disable DFCO your going to have trouble. I could get small flames with DFCO disabled, negative decel timing and fuel map verry rich in all cells you were trying to blow a flame in. even then it would only do it when the car was verry hot. after i added water meth injection it would just blow a constant flame.

still way way way better than the stock top mount. they would start at 40 sometimes and be over 100 by the time the car changed into 3rd.