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How to get power out of an NA barra?


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What are people doing to make power from there naturally aspirated barras tune wise? Ba/bf. It’s for a burnout car so the more the better. Any help appreciated! 

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There isn't much in them stock, with an exhaust and intake you can run a bit more timing to crack the ~190rwkw mark if the engine is in good condition. Cam shafts will see 220-230rwkw.

For a burnout car skinny tyres and 4.4 diff gears will be your friend.

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Just now, Roland@pcmtec said:

There isn't much in them stock, with an exhaust and intake you can run a bit more timing to crack the ~190rwkw mark if the engine is in good condition. Cam shafts will see 220-230rwkw.

For a burnout car skinny tyres and 4.4 diff gears will be your friend.

It’s got a good exhaust and intake system. It’s got billet oil pump gears too. 
how do I put a bit more timing? 

ive also just put a pretty much hollowed out intake on it (got it off an old speedway bloke) and was told ill need to add more fuel to run it. 
 

I used to run 3.45 ratio but went down to a 3.27 ratio to get my wheel speed up. Will Hold 3rd gear limiter on the spot but starts to bog down as I get moving hence the want for more power. 
 

the barra is in an xg falcon ute with a btr4 

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Posted (edited)
4 minutes ago, finnigan001 said:

Would this be something to do with traction control or other torque requestors?

No traction control and torque reduction is turned off man

Edited by Zak
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8 minutes ago, finnigan001 said:

ETC controls? the computer closing the throttle to maintain a torque limit etc

I’m not sure if mine does this as I turned off all torque reductions/management. But I could be wrong?

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19 minutes ago, fordsrule said:

What about changing the fuel table, if you haven't done so yet?

I’m still learning at the moment so I’m not 100% on how or what to change. What would you recommend doing?

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Fueling could be the issue to... if there is a lean out could feel like the car is bogging down.

Do you have a wideband hooked up yet?  If so, how do the afr's look compared to the fuel table?

Once you are comfortable that the stock tune is matching the cars behaviour fuel wise, then look at adjusting for more power.

But with no wideband i wouldnt play with fuel at all... Would be shooting in the dark.

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1 minute ago, finnigan001 said:

Fueling could be the issue to... if there is a lean out could feel like the car is bogging down.

Do you have a wideband hooked up yet?  If so, how do the afr's look compared to the fuel table?

Once you are comfortable that the stock tune is matching the cars behaviour fuel wise, then look at adjusting for more power.

But with no wideband i wouldnt play with fuel at all... Would be shooting in the dark.

I’ve got access to a dyno and I’ve got a wideband so will be doing majority of my tuning on the dyno, that’s why I’m looking for advice now

 

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Well if thats the case, you'll be able to see fairly quickly where its falling over on the dyno.  I believe the n/a tunes run around 12:1 at WOT. With a dyno you should be able to see the best torque as you lean it out towards 13:1.  I would be using nothing less than 98RON to help knock resistance.  Gains would be hard to tell with out the use of a dyno on a n/a motor as we are talking 5-10hp gains.

Once that is sorted, spark would be next, but only on the dyno as the gains once again will be small. Without the dyno you'll be guessing and possibly making changes for no benefits.

Even though these changes are small, altogether they'll add up.

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Yep, took the words right out of my mouth lol

I did some (educated) guessing with my FG n/a and whilst it still needs tweeking it feels pretty good on the road, I recon there's more in it.

I don't know if this is normal but at around 140kph, it kicked back to 4th when I pressed the pedal to the floor, the front lifted and it just took off, scared me half to death lol, so I backed off

No time to check the afr gauge so don't know what it read, but I do have it going at touch richer

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