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FG Mk2 XR6T - ZF Auto Flaring


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  • 2 weeks later...
On 8/22/2020 at 5:11 PM, Romulus said:

If you've had a trans rebuilt (like I have), then I would heed the advice given and that is to do as much stop start driving as possible at low speeds (below 100km/h) and avoid as much WOT and kickdown for at least 500kms. 

I've done 2000k since my trans rebuild with Monsta Torque. I'm using the HAEK4PE trans calibration as in my opinion this is the best ZF calibration out of the FG's for the I6T. I've played with HAER1UB but I've noticed too much banging during upshifts at WOT. It's just not as well behaved as the FG F6 trans calibration.

can you use the HAEK4PE zf calibration on a B series

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I will admit to stupidity because i did try before posting and yes it did go into limp mode. I thought maybe there was another way.

I then took the f6 territory HACH4A5 and moved that config over. got myself ABS and TRC lights on the dash and the gearbox was slipping, so i just went back to std.

 

 

i would love to know how to make it stop clunking, the low speed clunk you get when coasting down to a stop. around 7kmhr it does what i assume is change into first and goes clunk. if anyone wants to share there ZF secrets ill be all ears on that one.

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11 hours ago, BeerTurbo said:

I will admit to stupidity because i did try before posting and yes it did go into limp mode. I thought maybe there was another way.

I then took the f6 territory HACH4A5 and moved that config over. got myself ABS and TRC lights on the dash and the gearbox was slipping, so i just went back to std.

 

 

i would love to know how to make it stop clunking, the low speed clunk you get when coasting down to a stop. around 7kmhr it does what i assume is change into first and goes clunk. if anyone wants to share there ZF secrets ill be all ears on that one.

You need to compare your file against another file where the 2-1 bump isn't happening and compare any 2-1 shift settings. I'd be looking at shift times, slip times, pressures and the 2-1 shift/lock schedule. The easiest thing to do would to increase the 2-1 shift speed to say 10-15km/h and see if that makes a difference to the bump.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 9/6/2020 at 9:14 AM, Romulus said:

You need to compare your file against another file where the 2-1 bump isn't happening and compare any 2-1 shift settings. I'd be looking at shift times, slip times, pressures and the 2-1 shift/lock schedule. The easiest thing to do would to increase the 2-1 shift speed to say 10-15km/h and see if that makes a difference to the bump.

 

On 9/6/2020 at 9:14 AM, Romulus said:

You need to compare your file against another file where the 2-1 bump isn't happening and compare any 2-1 shift settings. I'd be looking at shift times, slip times, pressures and the 2-1 shift/lock schedule. The easiest thing to do would to increase the 2-1 shift speed to say 10-15km/h and see if that makes a difference to the bump.

I copied the fg shift schedule and information that was in the territory map. this made no difference to the lowdown kick into 1st. I may change the speed-gear schedule and see. i think it will remove it because if you manually shift it into 1 once its not moving there is no bump.

every shift has improved, except for a weried spot around 30-45 percent throttle, in the 2-3 shift where it seems to change out of two, let the engine flare up in rpm, before shifting into 3rd.

anyway, i should just proberly pay someone to tune it who knows whats there doing.

 

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