Romulus 15 Posted August 22, 2020 Share Posted August 22, 2020 My stock ZF lasted 20,000kms behind 511rwkw in my G6ET on E85. Sometimes is luck of the draw.......... 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BeerTurbo 24 Posted September 4, 2020 Share Posted September 4, 2020 On 8/22/2020 at 5:11 PM, Romulus said: If you've had a trans rebuilt (like I have), then I would heed the advice given and that is to do as much stop start driving as possible at low speeds (below 100km/h) and avoid as much WOT and kickdown for at least 500kms. I've done 2000k since my trans rebuild with Monsta Torque. I'm using the HAEK4PE trans calibration as in my opinion this is the best ZF calibration out of the FG's for the I6T. I've played with HAER1UB but I've noticed too much banging during upshifts at WOT. It's just not as well behaved as the FG F6 trans calibration. can you use the HAEK4PE zf calibration on a B series Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Romulus 15 Posted September 4, 2020 Share Posted September 4, 2020 10 hours ago, BeerTurbo said: can you use the HAEK4PE zf calibration on a B series No as I believe the PCM hardware is different. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Roland@pcmtec 1,485 Posted September 5, 2020 Share Posted September 5, 2020 FG and BF are very different, it would go straight into limp mode. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BeerTurbo 24 Posted September 5, 2020 Share Posted September 5, 2020 I will admit to stupidity because i did try before posting and yes it did go into limp mode. I thought maybe there was another way. I then took the f6 territory HACH4A5 and moved that config over. got myself ABS and TRC lights on the dash and the gearbox was slipping, so i just went back to std. i would love to know how to make it stop clunking, the low speed clunk you get when coasting down to a stop. around 7kmhr it does what i assume is change into first and goes clunk. if anyone wants to share there ZF secrets ill be all ears on that one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Romulus 15 Posted September 5, 2020 Share Posted September 5, 2020 What's your strategy? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BeerTurbo 24 Posted September 5, 2020 Share Posted September 5, 2020 1 minute ago, Romulus said: What's your strategy? HACH4K6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Romulus 15 Posted September 6, 2020 Share Posted September 6, 2020 11 hours ago, BeerTurbo said: I will admit to stupidity because i did try before posting and yes it did go into limp mode. I thought maybe there was another way. I then took the f6 territory HACH4A5 and moved that config over. got myself ABS and TRC lights on the dash and the gearbox was slipping, so i just went back to std. i would love to know how to make it stop clunking, the low speed clunk you get when coasting down to a stop. around 7kmhr it does what i assume is change into first and goes clunk. if anyone wants to share there ZF secrets ill be all ears on that one. You need to compare your file against another file where the 2-1 bump isn't happening and compare any 2-1 shift settings. I'd be looking at shift times, slip times, pressures and the 2-1 shift/lock schedule. The easiest thing to do would to increase the 2-1 shift speed to say 10-15km/h and see if that makes a difference to the bump. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BeerTurbo 24 Posted September 21, 2020 Share Posted September 21, 2020 On 9/6/2020 at 9:14 AM, Romulus said: You need to compare your file against another file where the 2-1 bump isn't happening and compare any 2-1 shift settings. I'd be looking at shift times, slip times, pressures and the 2-1 shift/lock schedule. The easiest thing to do would to increase the 2-1 shift speed to say 10-15km/h and see if that makes a difference to the bump. On 9/6/2020 at 9:14 AM, Romulus said: You need to compare your file against another file where the 2-1 bump isn't happening and compare any 2-1 shift settings. I'd be looking at shift times, slip times, pressures and the 2-1 shift/lock schedule. The easiest thing to do would to increase the 2-1 shift speed to say 10-15km/h and see if that makes a difference to the bump. I copied the fg shift schedule and information that was in the territory map. this made no difference to the lowdown kick into 1st. I may change the speed-gear schedule and see. i think it will remove it because if you manually shift it into 1 once its not moving there is no bump. every shift has improved, except for a weried spot around 30-45 percent throttle, in the 2-3 shift where it seems to change out of two, let the engine flare up in rpm, before shifting into 3rd. anyway, i should just proberly pay someone to tune it who knows whats there doing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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