[Ba xr6 turbo auto converted to manual]

So adjusted the tables and anti lag doesn’t kick in till 2750 rpm but still no cruise control, the cruise control doesn’t even come onto the dash, so my falcon is a bitza, ba original with bf2 dash that was calibrated through forscan, cruise control worked when i originally converted from btr auto to 5 speed, dramas started when i installed tr6060 and bought the 4 tunes, been back and forth for a while now and starting to bug me a little, I’ve used a compare file and changed everything over but something I must be missing,

[Ba xr6 turbo auto converted to manual]

So vacuum tested everything and seems that converting auto to manual I’ve messed up som tables but have since rectified, now running the multi tune with anti lag with workshop and wondering how I change the time to kick in anti lag, as soon as I press cruise control anti lag kicks in without cruise control turning on, what table am I supposed to change to sort this out?

[HOWTO: Launch Control / Rolling Antilag via Cruise Control Paddle - Ford Falcon]

So just a question about the launch control, when installed the custom OS does the cruise control still work, there is no hold time on cruise control paddle  for the anti lag so as soon as I press the paddle it goes straight into anti lag, also while driving I press the res button and I’m able to change tunes without having to hold in cruise control paddle to activate the tune selection, maybe I need to change something? 

[Forward facing plenum, bigger intercooler, bigger exhaust tuning]

3 hours ago, Puffwagon said:

If the boost came down when you changed the desired boost, it'll be fine and for all intents and purposes you've done it right.

If it oscillates at part throttle or if it oscillates coming onto boost, you'll need to drop some duty out of the wastegate duty cycle table. The scale is 0 to 1, 0 is zero percent duty and 1 is 100% duty. Try lowering it 5% at a time or 0.05 less in the map.

You might find that it'll hit boost cut on a cold night and if that happens, once again lower the wg duty cycle table. I wouldn't raise the boost cut parameters at this stage.

I wouldn't worry about changing anything for the plenum as there is usually only a minor difference in volume.

The stock datalogging setup is pretty good. One thing I like to add to it is injector duty cycle. One thing you will want for datalogging is a wideband. You can use a dlp8 to insert wideband data into your log. I'm sure there is a writeup on the forum somewhere.

Get some knock ears too as it's very easy for a beginner tuner to make these engine knock. Apart from that they are a valuable tuning tool, especially for road tuning on 98 octane.

 

There's a few fairly simple things to get you started. There is more to tuning boost control but this should help a bit. As always there is a write-up for boost control on the forum that you should have a read of.

Does the data log have afr, and if it where to lean or to rich would I tune the fueling through injector scaling 

[Forward facing plenum, bigger intercooler, bigger exhaust tuning]

Been through the forums and found bits and pieces of info in different areas but still need more guidance, I’ve recently put on a bigger intercooler and bigger exhaust, will be putting a forward facing plenum on over the weekend and wondering what parameters I’ll need to focus on, my car was tuned through a shop and since I downloaded pcmtec I’ve loaded the f6 tune onto the car, copied all parameters over and rescaling spark and SD tables, I’ve also upgraded to the workshop version one car so what should I need to data log, when putting the bigger exhaust on the car the boost increased a couple psi and also increased even more when I put the bigger intercooler on, I lowered the desired boost to keep it roughly the same psi it was tuned at but I know I’ve probably done it wrong. Any help is greatly appreciated 

[Update on when we can access 2.0]

Would there be any discounts when the new version is available from going to professional to workshop

[HOWTO: Full independent VCT cam control in BA 6 cyl]

27 minutes ago, Roland@pcmtec said:

This is a really simple method. Set the 5th gear min/max wider and datalog gear mtx to make sure the ratio is within the 5th range.

What channel is the gear mtx under,

I have commanded gear by transmission, desired gear, ess inhibitor gear, last gear commanded, commanded gear and gear ratio across transmission

[HOWTO: Full independent VCT cam control in BA 6 cyl]

Just now, XeAssert said:

My factory t56 ba mk2 also only has 5 gears defined but compared to a 5 speed manual strategy the 5th gear min/max was a bit bigger so cruise control thinks gear 5/6 is just in gear 5

Ok mate cheers, my car is running tr6060 and originally I used the ba f6 gear ratios and I’m sure the cruise worked in 6th but would turn off completely when I touched the clutch or brake pedal and wouldn’t turn back on, since then I used the fg gear ratios and cruise works in all gears bar 6th, I might revert back to the ba f6 ratios and keep bug hunting 

[HOWTO: Full independent VCT cam control in BA 6 cyl]

18 minutes ago, Bill said:

Correct. You’ll still need to follow the instructions at the start of the post once you have the F6 strategy 

I got the f6 catch code from a forum in here a while ago, and it’s loaded onto the laptop and it’s only got 5 gears in the gear scaler as well. Is there any reason why it doesn’t show the 6th gear or is there another catch code 

[HOWTO: Full independent VCT cam control in BA 6 cyl]

1 hour ago, Bill said:

To have "Fully Independent VCT" in a BA, you will need the F6 strategy HAAT3VC. F6 is 6 speed manual.

To get cruise working in 6th, start by looking at the "GEAR" parameters....Gear ratio, Gear min ratio & Gear max ratios. Also make sure your diff ratio is correct.

So if I license the f6 tune not only will I get fully independent vct but will also have the 6 gears in the gear scaler as the ba only has 5 gears in the gear scaler?. All ratios have been changed to the correct minimum and maximum up to 5th gear, I set the diff ratio to 3.7 but my diff is still a 3.4 and cruise didn’t work, so I set it back to 3.4 and cruise works up till 5th gear 

[HOWTO: Full independent VCT cam control in BA 6 cyl]

5 hours ago, Roland@pcmtec said:

If you get the switch the wrong way around it just reverse the oil lamp function, eg you'll get a red light when oil pressure is healthy, and when you have low oil pressure it'll turn off. Other than the indication it should not actually do anything else, its also very easy to test.

Yer fair enough that makes sense about the switch, so to achieve fully independent vct I still need the f6 tune and load my current tune onto that, the ba f6 tune is that for 5 speed or 6 speed as I’m currently trying to figure out how to get cruise control working in 6th gear on my ba

[HOWTO: Full independent VCT cam control in BA 6 cyl]

1 minute ago, Bill said:

The auF12646 "OIL PRES LO OPEN Switch" is a parameter that's set to 0 if you're using an F6 cluster or set to 1 for na & XR6 turbo. If you have the wrong setting, or simply swap the cluster for the wrong type, the oil light will stay on.

Ah ok, it does have a bf mk2 cluster in it now and the auf12646 is set to 1, if I set it to zero the oil light will be on and I won’t have the independent vct settings?

[HOWTO: Full independent VCT cam control in BA 6 cyl]

On 12/3/2019 at 5:06 PM, Roland@pcmtec said:

This only works for a manual. If you have an auto you will need the workshop edition and to manually copy over the automatic settings and tables (see steps further down).

First read your vehicle and save the file (do not license it). 

Next go to the stock file wizard and press "create stock file from strategy" and enter in A3VC / HAAT3VC

Then press "create and merge" and load the file you saved originally.

License the file. If you have previously licensed your other file this step will cost 2 extra credits.

Now go to auF12646 and flip the switch, this will invert the oil pressure sender signal as the F6 has a different switch.

Now you will have a fully independent F6 strategy in your BA. To take advantage of this calibration it is recommended to add 24 degrees over overlap from 1500 - 3500 rpm, this will help spool the turbo the same way the late model BF and FGs do.

auF16503

auF16492

 

NOTE If the car was previously tuned, you will need to copy the spark and speed density tables over re-scaling them as you go. This is as the BA F6 speed density and spark tables are the same size as the BF not the BA. Hence a compare will not copy the values over. This is very important.

 

Automatic conversion

If you have a BTR auto you can compare your file to another BA automatic turbo such as 32YC / HAANFY4 and copy over the relevant automatic settings. Here is an example of some of the parameters you may need to copy. This will need to be carefully tested to ensure the BTR shifts as expected.

 

Hi Roland I’ve got a ba xr6 factory turbo and it has all the same vct tables as the f6 and I can flip that oil pressure switch, they look the same but could you clarify what’s different between them 

[Ba xr6 turbo auto converted to manual]

Ok so done another smoke test, everything blocked up so no smoke could escape and nothing. I mentioned that it’s auto converted to manual and it seems I don’t have the idle or dashpot loaded onto the tune on the car, also noticed AUF2193 is still on the automatic value, also the idle spark is set to 2 degrees which is what the stock value is, I’m lost 

[Ba xr6 turbo auto converted to manual]

Ok so done a smoke test with a homemade machine, no vacuum leaks I could find, I went back through the tune to check the dashpot and the idle and compared my current tune against the f6 tune and a NA 5 speed manual tune, the dashpot on my current tune doesn’t have any of the values or parameters as the manual tunes I have, I loaded the f6 as a compare file to my current tune and applied all the dashpot and all idle, going through the newly changed things on current tune and a few rpm parameters in idle airflow in gear and idle airflow in park/neutral are red which I assume they may be in conflict with other things that have been altered, might be fair to mention that the car has been tuned by a reputable local shop and the car has big injectors, big turbo and most of the bolts ons. I have saved the original tune on the car that I can revert back to if I manage to mess something up, as for the spark advance on data logger I might not of had it set in the right thing thus leading to the impression of a vacuum leak 

[Ba xr6 turbo auto converted to manual]

On 8/27/2021 at 10:49 AM, westo said:

Toque soirée is driver demand, fuel is good, spark is at 2 degrees, so maybe a vacuum leak somewhere, done a quick smoke test but couldn’t see anything as yet, bout to check dtc

No dtc fault codes either, might be a vacuum leak.

update I’ve replaced all gaskets, seated in the injectors properly and checked all vacuum lines, don’t have access to a smoke machine but I did spray all areas of manifold with aero start and no rev increase, taken car for a drive and still drives the same, I’m going to flash the old auto idle and dashpot back on and see if any changes 

[Ba xr6 turbo auto converted to manual]

25 minutes ago, westo said:

Toque soirée is driver demand, fuel is good, spark is at 2 degrees, so maybe a vacuum leak somewhere, done a quick smoke test but couldn’t see anything as yet, bout to check dtc

No dtc fault codes either, might be a vacuum leak 

[Ba xr6 turbo auto converted to manual]

1 hour ago, Roland@pcmtec said:

Smoke test the intake for leaks.

What is your idle spark? If its below ~10 degrees you likely have an intake leak which would explain your rev hang etc and also your deadspot (no timing).

Check torque sources to make sure you aren't in a limp mode or torque reduction mode.

Check DTCs

Check fuel pressure.

Toque soirée is driver demand, fuel is good, spark is at 2 degrees, so maybe a vacuum leak somewhere, done a quick smoke test but couldn’t see anything as yet, bout to check dtc

[Ba xr6 turbo auto converted to manual]

Here is a short video of what’s happening, ignition on engine off but this is what it’s doing when driving, press in the throttle slightly in that dead spot and butterfly goes backwards the data logger shows that the throttle is getting pressed and press a bit more on throttle and the butterfly operates properly, all data logging shows that pedal is working 

[Ba xr6 turbo auto converted to manual]

Yer it’s factory turbo ba, I only used the air idle tables from the f6 tune, car idles perfect and revs perfect it’s just that throttle pedal, I tested the tps with another tb and it did the same, when you press in the throttle into that dead spot the butterfly goes backwards into the stopped car off position so I’m not sure if it’s tune related or a stuffed pedal

[Ba xr6 turbo auto converted to manual]

I’ve recently done a conversion on my ba xr6 turbo to a 5 speed manual. Using auto wiring harness and bridged the gearbox wires, wires in the clutch switch and changed the parameters needed to drive it without going into limp mode, had moderate throttle hang when changing gears so I changed the idle air tables like it said in another post and also changed the dashpot over, I used the f6 ba turbo tune to compare, throttle hang is a lot worse now and it seems I have a dead spot in the throttle just as soon as I touch it, when I fully let off the throttle to change gears it spikes in revs but if I keep my foot on the throttle in this dead spot the revs drop as they should, I’ve data logged the throttle position and it’s showing no input when I let off the throttle but car still revs, I’ve also compared the idle and dashpot to a ba NA manual tune and still no luck. Car still drives fine otherwise so any help appreciated