taylorsamuel790@gmail.com
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Posts posted by taylorsamuel790@gmail.com
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22 hours ago, Puffwagon said:
You need to get a dlp8 and have your afr in the log.
You are logging way too many channels to have a decent update rate. There's quite a few in there that you wouldn't use at all. Use a Falcon template and add injector duty cycle to it, that's most of what you'll need.
When you post a log you should post a tune with it for reference.
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21 hours ago, Puffwagon said:
You need to get a dlp8 and have your afr in the log.
You are logging way too many channels to have a decent update rate. There's quite a few in there that you wouldn't use at all. Use a Falcon template and add injector duty cycle to it, that's most of what you'll need.
When you post a log you should post a tune with it for reference.
Sorry mate I didn’t see what ya said about uploading the tune as well I’ll do that now let me know what ya reckon
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I’ll give it a go and let ya know if I need a hand thanks heaps mate
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What main channels do you recommend running for a data log?
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it was just a start up in the driveway not able to take it for a drive up the road atm stuck on home d, just wanted to know if anything was completely out of ordinary thats all
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On 1/30/2023 at 4:52 AM, Roland@pcmtec said:
Yes absolutely. You will run out of injector if the car is stock though.
Yeah really? Nice how would I go about it mate? And na I got sonic 1250cc injectors in it so should be sweet
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Yeah really? Nice how would I go about it mate? And na I got sonic 1250cc injectors in it so should be sweet
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Yeah cool and I only have the professional version of software is it possible to do with that?
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Was just wondering how to go about running flex fuel/e85 with standard pcm?
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is it possible to run fg xr6t on e85 through standard pcm on professional?
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13 minutes ago, Puffwagon said:
nice thanks heaps bro, and so then just 0.8 on auF0172? or?
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41 minutes ago, Puffwagon said:
1: force open loop
2: change entire base fuel table to 0.8
3: adjust low slope until the car starts and idles at 11.8:1 afr
4: stall up the car in the drive way and adjust high slope until it stays at 11.8:1 when stalled up
This will get your slopes a lot closer to where they should be and the car will probably drive fine. Put it back into closed loop and put your base fuel table back to where it was. If it runs lean at wot, lower the high slope. If the idle trims are more than 5% adjust the low slope up or down a little bit.
This is a very basic yet effective way for the average person to get their car driving with unknown injector data.
how do i force into open loop man?
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mate once again thank you very much for your help ill have a go and ill upload a new datalog and see what ya think
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1 hour ago, Puffwagon said:
Most of the log is in closed loop, except for the very start and the very end. While in closed loop the stft appears to be eventually bottomed out at 0.7 lambda, then it quickly goes to 1.0 lambda and it stalls. You can see it changes into open loop at the same time, hence the change in commanded lambda and all of this points to your injector data being miles off.
The car should be idling with only a couple of percent trim, not 30%.
ok yeah that sounds like it definitely could be it mate.. is it possible to put my standard injectors backin and maybe merge fg f6 injector data and start from there? least ill have a starting point so to speak then where as with these 1250cc sonic injectors i couldnt find any data on them anywhere so kinda left me in the dark from the start ya know what i mean...
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ok yeah that sounds like it definitely could be it mate.. is it possible to put my standard injectors backin and maybe merge fg f6 injector data and start from there? least ill have a starting point so to speak then where as with these 1250cc sonic injectors i couldnt find any data on them anywhere so kinda left me in the dark from the start ya know what i mean...
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trying to get car to run e85 randomly dies tho while idling after about maybe 6 or 7 minutes was wondering if i uploaded the log someone might be able to tell me whats happening and why?
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so i do know boost is obviously changed through the pcm just thats about it.. haha
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man i wasnt lying when i said i was new to tuning haha i dont know much at all, only kind of things iv heard of are manual boost tee controllers and was told not to get one cause it has a electronic boost controller controlled by the ecuand then what i have the stiffer waste gate actuator spring..
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ok so im back.... with another question
haha how do i go about setting up the boost control for the 12psi actuator?
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Just now, Puffwagon said:
Best thing to do is ask questions on the forum man. There quite a few people who know a fair bit of stuff and then I wont have to answer a million questions lol. Some days I just need a blank wall and a full beer to stare at with nothing car related 😅There's plenty of specific info on the how to sections of the forum.
It's a long process to become good at anything really, so read up, smash the google search for anything and everything and when you get stuck, post up and you will have that little bit extra that someone might be able to help with.
I'll explain one thing tho, the A/C WOT disable time is to switch the aircon off while you floor it. It gives that little bit extra power and doesn't flog the A/C compressor too hard. The stock value is 12s which it pretty much what a stock car will do in the 1/4 or very nearly. If you have it switch on at 6 seconds like yours is, it will be right at the top of second gear, revving it's tit's off, then the A/C compressor will engage. The clutch in the A/C compressor won't like that much and the compressor will go from 0rpm to 6500rpm nearly instantly. It'll stress the compressor, it'll stress your serpentine belt, it'll wear out the belt tensioner and idler pulley quicker, it'll add wear to your harmonic balancer and it'll slow your car down when you're trying to go flat out. Moving it up to 14s is a much better idea than halving it, even leaving it stock would be fine. Last but not least, as long as you are aware what the timer is set to you can drive your car accordingly for best mechanical sympathy.
If it all seems a bit much you can get a decent tune around the 1k mark which should have you pretty well sorted.
alright so i apologize in advance but i have a question for ya already only one tho hahah its about the injector scaling.. whats my best option there? can you give me a round about base line data to put in there or something? or whats the best way to go about it in a simple persons kinda way? haha
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32 minutes ago, Puffwagon said:
There are multiple issues there that need addressing in the tune. In order from top to bottom;
Your A/C WOT disable time should be longer, leave it stock.
Your CFC delay is miles too long. It's wasting fuel running it like this. Even just a few seconds is enough to blast a fat flame when you lift off the throttle.
You have an engine light come on for your fuel level sender, you normally wouldn't touch this.
Your fuel base startup delay is 3 minutes, this can stay stock.
Your stoich value is 12.64, likely this is a typo from whoever tuned it, it should stay stock for 98 fuel.
The injectors aren't scaled correctly.
You have MAF fuel trim updates on, no reason to have it on.
The closed loop O2 temp has been altered, there is no reason to have this changed. You can force open loop differently if this was the intended outcome.
The PATS switch is off, no reason for this.
The torque module is switched off.
The torque requestors are set up so you can stall up the car on the brake, be careful not to snap your tail-shaft, the FG's do this.
Your engine speed at stall has been changed, this can stay stock.
The speed limit has been changed for no VID block yet the VID block is enabled.
Your boost control isn't setup for your new actuator.
I haven't mentioned every tuned thing cos some things have very little effect. To answer the title of the thread, no the tune is not safe and the car should not be brought onto boost or driven hard until it is fixed.
yeah well shes a bit sick in the head then the old girl hahahha na appreciate the feedback mate i really do sounds like ya definitely know your shit if i need any more help ill definitely get on to you if i get to annoying just tell me to piss off haha thanks again
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19 hours ago, Plumbs said:
Hi Mate , what’s your setup ?
Na no stress mate enjoy em while they last haha
and I got a 2009 fg xr6 turbo
has the zf 6 speed auto with aftermarket trans cooler
1250cc sonic 3/4 injectors
walboro 460 fuel pump
Pulsar next gen psr3584 turbo with Turbosmart 12psi internal actuator
4 inch dump into 4 inch high flow cat then just middle muffler delet after that
4 inch turbo side intake
Autotecnica big intercooler and stage 2 intercooler piping
ummmm shit I’m pretty sure that’s the lot mate
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2 hours ago, Plumbs said:
Hi Mate , what’s your setup ?
sorry mate once again im a newbie haha setup as in just what bolt ons or?
haha how do i go about setting up the boost control for the 12psi actuator?
someone tell me if this datalog looks ok? 2009 fg xr6t
in Engine Tuning (AUS)
Posted
Will that difference in stoich matter at all?