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Another option that could be worth looking at is using an oil pressure switch that has a higher switching pressure than a typical factory one, say a 15 psi or 20 psi switching point. They're relatively cheap and because they don't have any internal circuitry they're much more robust than the Honeywell sensors and can go straight into the block. A lot of our entry level club race car owners use them as a quick and easy way to get a useful oil pressure warning. Only downside for them is a 20psi switch (light in their case) is active at hot idle. Or you could get the best of both worlds and use both, the Honeywell sensor and a 20psi switch alongside as a verification check before initiating a limiter or shut down. It's extremely unlikely for the switch to fail compared to the Honeywell sensor, so if the Honeywell shows 0psi and the switch hasn't triggered you would know it's a false alarm. If both go off then it's almost certainly a genuine loss of pressure event. You would need to get some data to find the right combo of pressure and activation engine speed but you get the idea

I've been thinking about this one some more and at the risk of throwing a major spanner in the works, one option that could be worth considering for some people is using a Maxx ecu in a piggyback configuration https://www.maxxecu.com/ (not related to Maxx the workshop). It's a highly customizable ECU with advanced CAN IO configuration. Just about anything you can imagine doing it will do, and if the feature doesn't yet exist they will often write new firmware for you, sometimes within 24 hours. That would give you a lot of the functionality you're looking at implementing without having to go through the long process of bringing new hardware and software to market. Plus you'd get onboard high speed data logging, built in lambda control, multi-level engine protection, ability to control extra injectors, fuel pressure deviation tracking, staged fuel pumps, fully configurable outputs etc etc. There could still be a business case in selling it with a pre-loaded configuration and plug and play harness if you wanted to make a business out of it, implementation is everything. Please don't get me wrong though, I'm definitely not wanting to derail your project! Just putting some ideas out there from my own background that might be of use to someone. The car world needs more people like you guys thinking of novel solutions to these problems The Maxx is the path I'm considering going down as I want to experiment with running dual fuel with methanol as the secondary fuel. There's no E85 at the pump here and methanol is cheaper than 98, where as ethanol from a drum is $4 litre

Hey everyone, I just came across this project and am really impressed with what you guys have managed to do with the factory PCM. I'm keen to get involved with the project once I get up to speed with it. Much more reading to go on my part yet! My day to day is dyno tuning and race care electronics, mostly with standalones, based in NZ. I'm currently looking to get a new shop project car, recently decided on a Barra and just the other day came across PCMTEC and have decided it's definitely the right platform for me! Here's my 2 cents on the current topic, hopefully it's of use to somone. I use the Honeywell MIP series for every race car we build, measuring oil, fuel and coolant pressure, with great success. But they are sensitive little things that can be prone to failure if they don't get just what they need. The datasheet is a great resource https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/2897784.pdf The big one that kills them is vibration. They don't like to be directly bolted to an engine, they are much more likely to survive when they are remote mounted with a rubber isolated mount. Haltech do a cheap remote mount kit https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-039103-pressure-sensor-extension-kit/ The other big trap is water getting into the connector causing corrosion. Right angle boots like this are a big help https://msel.co.nz/right-angle-rubber-boot-for-pressure-sensors/ The failure mode on these sensors tends to be intermittent and erratic too which is a big headache. Looking at the data you'll see numbers that don't make sense or brief spikes to 0. It's worth proceeding with caution if you're looking to cut the engine on a street car. I typically will only implement a limiter to ~1500rpm on loss of oil pressure on a street car to allow the driver to limp the car out of the path of potential danger. An emergency over ride switch or button is another option. 90% of the cuts we see are from wiring faults or sensor failures. But the other 10% has saved many race motors! Also you can get the sensors for a good price with free shipping here https://nz.element14.com/honeywell/mipan2xx100psaax/pressure-transducer-seal-gauge/dp/3364907 Octopart.com is the go to find the best place to buy anything electronic