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john.z

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Posts posted by john.z

  1. 5 hours ago, Roland@pcmtec said:

    Define read fine? As in they are detecting knock?

    It is possible you don't have knock on all cylinders.

    I'm playing around to see whats real and fake knock, this is the first run where Ive heard a ping through my knock ears.  Even so, they're always reading something above 0 at WOT, except for cylinder 1. Even throughout cruising with bumps and gear changes etc, the others will at some stage do something, just not cylinder 1.image.thumb.png.e1bb289d465b13885b8c6dc7dc835677.pngimage.thumb.png.e1bb289d465b13885b8c6dc7dc835677.png

  2. On 1/23/2021 at 10:58 PM, hymey said:

    Hey Roland, thanks for this explanation.  What does the "0" cylinder reference too ? Does 0 reference cylinder 1 ? And cyl 5 to be cylinder 6 ? If not, what does changing 0 do ?  . Also in the event of one bank being lean in a fg 5.4 V8 . Ie passenger side bank.  Would it require cylinders 5,6,7,8 to be adjusted ? Regards , Joel .

    Can confirm 0-7 is cylinders 1 to 8 in a v8 and yes mine runs slightly leaner on one side, but it's the drivers side that does so since air flow is less obstructed to it, i changed 0-3 to 1.02 to correct.

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  3. 1 hour ago, Roland@pcmtec said:

    Last mad idea is you can control power with the following quite dramatically using the following: Spark timing, lambda and throttle.

    Make a multi tune, see how low you can get the power with a funky looking throttle curve, then start adding fuel and pulling timing to get the desired power levels.

    I've seen Palm Beach Dyno drop a 900hp twin turbo 5.0 running an external boost controller down to about 550hp doing this, granted they also had VCT to play with but its an option.

    Yeah that’s where I assumed I’d end up, much easier to work with a boost controller than going down the rabbit hole of a different pcm. We’ll see when the time comes, something about a fully factory pcm running everything just seems appealing 

  4. Yeah I’ve played with it, gone from .14 up to .20, but I think that may need to be higher as the log shows it’s hanging around .19 and when it does idle it’s around .25. 
    yeah decel table helps a lot. Motor’s run in now so I can spend more time at idle figuring it out 👍

  5. On 11/10/2022 at 11:06 PM, Roland@pcmtec said:

    Check the intake for air leaks with a smoke machine. 

    Did that, no leaks. Like I said, not looking for an answer to my problem, just looking into the transition from dashpot to idle. I want to know more about it as the transition has never been smooth, even when stock. For example auF2257 causes a 1.5 second delay where it will momentarily hang. Removing that lets it return straight to idle speed however the timing drops to -9° for a split second causing a slight overshoot.

  6. Could you explain the transition from dashpot to idle control? what triggers the change between dashpot and idle control?

    Im having this issue where the idle hangs around 1500rpm. Idle status says it's still in dashpot, however the throttle has returned to it's usual idle spot. what's hanging the revs is the spark is stuck in the decel table and it catches the motor around 1500 by commanding 17 degrees advance. I can decrease that table to get it to go lower, however it wont drop below 11 degrees.

    Note that it is a freshly rebuilt 5.4 with lower compression, ported throttle body and different cam timing with rough changes to the throttle body flow map and speed density tables, enough that itll run within 5% of 1.00 in open loop at idle, but not enough to suggest that it's not my issue.  Ive fiddled with a fair bit of tables and scalars between dashpot, idle and spark idle, nothing that eliminates the problem all together.

    Not looking for a resolve to my problem, just an explanation to my question above.

    dashpot error closed loop.teclog

  7. There was no over rev or weird loud sound, until it went back to idle and started ticking like a lash adjuster sounds. 
     

    basically what happened is I was playing around with it, got to 4K with 9psi. Let go of the button just before the throttle. The tune would have changed back, saw 9psi at 4K and immediately changed from -20° to 15°. You can imagine with that amount of boost, compression and advance, a free revving engine would struggle to roll over top dead centre. Stock rod just couldn’t handle it 

  8. I have a bad habit of resting my foot on the clutch pedal. So I had to fine tune how far to bend it. Too little and it’ll catch you off gaurd. Just play around with it, don’t try to baby it. Give it a good bend. Just note that if you have it on all the time, it’ll be very hard to start a burnout as you won’t get high enough in the revs when you drop the clutch. 

    every day driving is fine, you don’t notice it, except if you try to show off doing a burnout and forget about the switch haha. I’ve got the 2 step anti lag going for that

  9. 7 hours ago, jakka351 said:

    This could be the issue, you can disable/modify ETC as a method to limit torque there, if auf0261 is all set to 1 it is allowing the PCM to choose from every possible torque reduction option so it is choosing ETC in this case to limit engine speed. (I think, somebody correct me if inaccurate). This post has better info on those params.

     

    Sorry should have been a bit clearer on that. Was just saying how all that stuff had been changed prior to me tuning it. I’d reverted nearly everything back to stock before attempting this apart from what I think was changed when my previous tuner dialled in the cams. Auf0260 was just something I missed. 
     

    Ive bit the bullet and purchased the single use workshop deal. was able to quickly setup a proper 2 step, rolling anti lag and flat shifting without a problem 👍

     

  10. Ive just tried that, made no difference.
    what else could it be?

    this car has been through multiple tuners before me, there were so many weird changes I don’t understand. Should have just started from stretch but didn’t want to until I knew why all the changes were made. They also changed everything in auF0262 to 0 and auF0261 to 1 for some reason. 

  11. On 1/25/2021 at 11:17 AM, Avh1993 said:

    Hey Roland im looking to play around with launch control on a mates car for when we are down at the track i havent had much succes with getting it to work as the one auf location is missing im guessing being a 2010 na fgxr6 its factory manual ill upload the file aswell not sure if i can maybe some how copy it into the file importing as perimeter  i wasnt able to datalog it either i also have the pro edition i have uploaded the file to support as well hopefully i can get abit of assistance .

    thanks in advanced 

    HAEDJC5 tcm read and licenced file kades ghost cam tune and launch control.tec 1.14 MB · 6 downloads

    Got it to work fine on my fg xr8, you dont need the workshop edition

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