[E85 BF NA how?]

Car loves it, mainly doing it for the cooling and knock resistance as the cars a street/drift car. No wideband whatsoever so no idea what it's doing but seems to be working great 

[E85 BF NA how?]

Hey so yeah you don't really need much more than the professional version to convert to E85. My wagon is na with e85 all on a stock fuel system and I've had zero issues whatsoever. Basically all you have to do is change the stoich ratio to suit E85 and adjust the cold start parameters to get it to start everytime 

[Ghost cam]

On 6/13/2021 at 10:07 AM, Roland@pcmtec said:

With 30 deg of overlap you'll have a false lean reading due to unburnt fuel/oxygen going out the exhaust. So you actually want to run it a bit leaner at idle. One way to find the sweet spot is disable the closed loop spark feedback (gain of 0) and monitor your idle rpm, lean it out and when the rpm stops rising you have found the best combustion mixture for stability. Make sure your MBT/Borderline timing is flat across the idle rpm range for this test.

You want the cam timing to go from 30 to -30 as quick as possible to induce the kick. Eg at say 650rpm you have -30 and at 700rpm you have 30, this will mean the cam swings back as fast as it possibly can when the idle rpm drops. You'll need to adjust the rpm breakpoints to achieve this.

I have never had a single stall in our test car when cold hot or warm using the settings found in this file. Trims are within 1% without the ghost cam and the car is on E85 with ID1000s. Car cranks first go in 5c weather with E85 as well. So if you can get your normal tune as good as that it will definitely help.

PCMFEGA as read.tecUnavailable

 

My throttle input at low rpm low speed crawling is like the throttle turns on and off. Eg I'm on throttle and then the car drops revs and throttle input and then all of a sudden it comes back on and jolts the car

 

[Ghost cam]

On 6/13/2021 at 10:07 AM, Roland@pcmtec said:

With 30 deg of overlap you'll have a false lean reading due to unburnt fuel/oxygen going out the exhaust. So you actually want to run it a bit leaner at idle. One way to find the sweet spot is disable the closed loop spark feedback (gain of 0) and monitor your idle rpm, lean it out and when the rpm stops rising you have found the best combustion mixture for stability. Make sure your MBT/Borderline timing is flat across the idle rpm range for this test.

You want the cam timing to go from 30 to -30 as quick as possible to induce the kick. Eg at say 650rpm you have -30 and at 700rpm you have 30, this will mean the cam swings back as fast as it possibly can when the idle rpm drops. You'll need to adjust the rpm breakpoints to achieve this.

I have never had a single stall in our test car when cold hot or warm using the settings found in this file. Trims are within 1% without the ghost cam and the car is on E85 with ID1000s. Car cranks first go in 5c weather with E85 as well. So if you can get your normal tune as good as that it will definitely help.

PCMFEGA as read.tecUnavailable

 

Coming back to this, I've played around with my settings and I've gotten it to no longer stall when coming to a stop. Issue was my dumbass forgot to raise the idle rpm in gear and my idle adder (ect) table was too low. Now I have it all sorted I've come across another small problem which is easily driven around but now at low speed coasting in say a carpark the throttle has a tendency to cut in and out. What would I be looking at to solve this? 

Cheers

[Ghost cam]

okay ill try these out in the coming days. ill try out changing the rpm it drops to -30 first and then if that doesn't work will try your other recomendations.

cheers

[Ghost cam]

i have ltft disabled and in auF0172 its at about lambda 1.02 at 1000rpm which is where my idle is set as per the reccomended idle settings. i can perhaps attach my tune file if it helps. would having the -30 at 750rpm help it kick the rpm back up sooner so it doesn't drop revs and die?

[Ghost cam]

On 6/2/2018 at 7:09 PM, Roland@pcmtec said:

There are lots of tables. Depends if you are BF or FG but I would start here.

Whilst on load, eg not in closed loop idle/coast the following table is used:

If you put ~40 in all of the lower load and rpm tables you can get a lumpy cam providing you are touching the throttle, as soon as you let off the throttle it will go back to a normal smooth idle. Kind of like a reverse ghost cam.

The rest of the items are in here:

 

There are also some scalars here which influence the base starting angle of the cams

 

Then there are these tables which are used on cold start (which is why your car sounds much louder when cold as the cam timing is quite different)

auF16563

auF0098

auF103

 

The next thing to understand is how the cams are controlled. Basically the PCM controls the intake cam via the commanded angles and modifiers (temp, idle, load etc). The exhaust cam then follows the intake cam with an offset. So if you command and angle of X degrees for the intake cam you will see Y degrees for the exhaust cam. If you change the intake cam position by 10 degrees you will now see intake = x + 10 and exhaust = y + 10. Eg both cams have been offset by just modifying the intake cam. Knowing this you need to modify the max retard and also the various offsets.

The next thing to know is there are various control mode. The main three are cold start, on load (eg using the throttle) and idle/coast.

The idle/coast seems to the hardest to figure out.

From my testing I found that I could influence the camshaft timing at idle via auF0103 (BF Manual HACCKGA strategy). Eg by setting the entire table to 60 degrees I logged both cams at 50 degrees, if I set it to -50 I logged both at -50. If i set the table to the stock 5 degees I logged intake at 7 degrees and exhaust at -7 degrees. As soon as you go past ~20 degrees the cams are the same as each other, I'm guessing something is capping the overlap angle somewhere.

Quote

Anyway I would play with auF0103 and then play with all the max retard/max overlap tables to see if you can get the exhaust cam to move at idle independently. From my testing so far I could not however I believe Pitlane did manage to do so.

 

Would playing with this help in stopping the car from dying as soon as you clutch in when coasting to a complete stop? i cant quite wrap my head around what to play with to stop this. Perhaps bumping up (auF2549) Engine Idle Speed Minimum from such a low value could stop it from dropping well below the 600rpm where the -30 deg of overlap is supposed to bump the revs back up? I have had no issue getting my lumpy idle settings to where i like it, just cant get it to not die when coming to a stop.

any help would be much appreciated