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Dolan

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Posts posted by Dolan

  1. 3 minutes ago, Puffwagon said:

    You used the wrong farken oil and you didn't fill it up enough.

    Yeah bad oil. It was approved for the ZF but I guess it has problems.

    Also I did fill it up properly. get it to 30-40c. Then go through park, reverse, drive, second gear and then back to park. Then filled it while still running.

    5 minutes ago, Puffwagon said:

    Make sure that the filter is fitted properly, it is easy enough to forget the seal or use two seals when there should be one. If the filter falls into the pan there will be issues.

    I never took off the oil pan, and only topped it up with that Penrite with around a litre after the oil cooler.

    7 minutes ago, Puffwagon said:

    You will need to make 100% sure that there is enough oil in the box. Despite me telling plenty of people how to do it properly, I have always come across arguments that will result in a low oil condition. From dead cold and dead level, open the drain plug and start filling, when it comes out have someone start the engine, drop it into drive with the handbrake on and foot on the brake and continue filling until it comes out again. Pump a few more pumps into it and get the plug done up straight away. If you didn't do it like this, your oil level will be borderline low/ok and the box will more than likely play up. Even if you did it like this check the level again, as it's cheaper and easier to check the level than swapping the transmission.

    I did check the oil a few weeks after, and I could put in another 200-400mls until it started seeping out again.

    8 minutes ago, Puffwagon said:

    I have personally seen an apparently stuffed box, slipping in gear, not shifting etc, come good after a filter and fluid change, with the correct amount of fluid in it.

    The bad thing is it got worse after around 2 weeks, it started off slightly slipping going into 4th, now it will not at all even after being off throttle for 10 seconds and then letting it idle trying to grab that clutch.

    One really weird note to mention, once it was in 4th gear shifting to 5 and 6 was fine, which makes sense with the way the E clutch is used. But even under high load around 400kw in 4th gear it wouldn't slip at all. The only time it ever slipped was going from 3rd to 4th.

    I feel like the trans is done in its current form, in my opinion.

  2. The trans slips trying to go into 4, 5 or 6 and fails every time now.

    I think it's the E clutch worn out?

    I used Penrite BMV after installing an external trans cooler and it started happening a few weeks later.

    PS. The old standard heat exchanger never milkshaked so it cant be water that caused the issue.

  3. Hey,

    I'm currently putting a NA FG ZF into my Turbo FGX. (Just so I can drive around for now)

    I'm using version 2.11 and I tried writing to the trans and it came up with the merge dialog.

    Then once it was done and I power cycled the car it shows Transmission fault on the dashboard.

    I'm not too sure how to continue.

    From my understanding you cant change the TCM over as the turbo trans is the first gen ZF, and the NA trans is a second gen ZF.

  4. Hey,

    I thought I'd also make this thread, similar to the one I just created but for the 6R80 transmission.

    I was wondering if it would be possible to swap a Ford 6R80 into a Falcon.

    The TCM would need to be swapped over from the current ZF to the new 6R80.

    Would swapping the TCM even be possible?

    Are the bell housings different? Are the torque converters different?

    Thanks, Dylan.

  5. Hey,

    I was wondering if it would be possible to swap a ZF 6HP26 or even a 6HP32 from a BMW into a Falcon.

    The TCM would definitely need to be swapped over from the current car to the new one. It's got a 6HP26 as stock at the moment.

    Has anyone done this or have any experience with these transmissions?

    Are the bell housings different? Are the torque converters different? Is there any major differences internally?

    Thanks, Dylan.

  6. 2 hours ago, Bill said:

    Did the slipping start after changing to BMV or was it doing it prior? I've seen a few that have started slipping after changing to BMV. The Gulf Western Syn TS LV is a good option.

    The seals leaking/bleeding off pressure is common & if you're going to change the fluid, do the seals at the same time.

    It only started slipping a month after topping up the fluid. It could’ve been on its way out before that but I never data logged anything major trans related before then.

    Yeah I defs will while I’m there.

  7. 1 minute ago, BeerTurbo said:

    i have had some beer so my memory is not on point.

    there is a bridge seal and three circle seals thats seal liquid from the top trans casing to the megatronics.

    i the transmission is slipping in gear - have you played with the line pressures? if the pressure does not meet the target you might have a leak. if you have bad adaptations you might have a solaniod issue.

    if it during the change, maybe put your shift times back up. or increase your tq reduction during shift. my 3-4 shift on terry was pretty bad but increasing the min TQ reduction time for the 3-4 shift helped this heaps.

    Haha, I’ll have to look at that if I take the box apart, I do want to try ‘fix’ it for now with it together if possible.

    I haven’t played with the pressures at all, nor have I checked the pressure vs target. I will need to check them.

    I’ve had these trans changes for over 2 years so far without issues, I think I’ll try increasing tq reduction timing and the main shift pressures and see where that leads me.

    Would changing the fluid help me at this point?

  8. 15 minutes ago, BeerTurbo said:

    Is this one thats you have tunned? Or are you referring to standard

    Does it have a pressure leak, if so do your three seals.

    I’ve made the shifts slightly faster and made the converter lockup in 2nd a lot sooner, around 1k rpm.

     I’m not sure if it has a leak, what 3 seals are you referring to?

  9. Hey guys,

    Just looking through this thread as my ZF has started slipping 3-4 and clutch e is maxing out adapts.

    I recently changed my trans cooler and topped up with Penrite BMV.

    Is my trans cooked now or would changing the oil to lifeguard or gulf western potentially fix the issue?

  10. Hey mate,

    Thanks so much for your input but I've been playing around with that on the weekend and it still wont fix the problem. It will do the injector cut 90% of the time, but that 10% at high load usually only from 2nd to 3rd it still wont happen.

    I even played around with setting auF11392 to 0, 1000, 2000, 3000. That didn't do anything at all.

    I reduced the torque reduction a bit and set auF11857 to a lower torque number, 150-200. This still didn't make a difference.

    I thought that would've done it as the datalog it shows the torque at flywheel (TQE_BRK) shows under the value in auF11857. I thought that maybe the normal torque reduction was reducing the torque below the limit auF11857 and that wouldn't trigger the cylinder cut.

    I've gotta be completely missing something here, I'm not sure what though.

  11. I'm not sure if I should put this in Engine Tuning or Transmission Tuning but I'm just gonna put it here.

    I've got a FG X XR6 Turbo, when I am on full throttle and above 18 psi or so and change gears, sometimes the injector cut (golf farts) won't occur and this causes my boost to spike like crazy after checking the datalogs.

    I'm not sure why this is occurring, my only theory is that the engine torque that gets sent to the transmission is below the threshold set in auF11857 - Tq_brk_s_str limit below which no injector cut is allowed during ZF gear shift.

    If anyone has had this issue or might have an idea on how to fix it, it would be greatly appreciated.

  12. Yeah must of just been one of the guys I talked to who probably didn't know what it was, either way I got it setup pretty easily.

    Oh thank god, that would've been a lot of force to break a rocker arm lol. That's very good, what trans do you have in it, and what's been done to the engine?

  13. 1 hour ago, Puffwagon said:

    The datalogging shows 257kpa cos that's where the stock tmap maxes out. The tmap is the one in the manifold and the boost sensor is the one in the pipe.

    56 minutes ago, Roland@pcmtec said:

    If you are pegging your tmap you will be slightly lean even if the wideband doesn't show it, there is no doubt about it. To use the switch over logic you simply install a 4 bar boost sensor, we recommend Ti Performance and Independent Motorsport as they will both supply you with offset + slope values so you don't have to stuff around calibrating it.

    I ordered a 4 bar boost sensor from Independent Motorsports and they shipped it within the day which was awesome. I called them up and asked if they had the parameter file but they said they didn't have it. I ended up using the same parameters that @Roland@pcmtec used in his how-to guide and tested it against the TMAP sensor on boost and they matched perfectly.
     

    1 hour ago, Puffwagon said:

    Have you got a built motor? A stock one won't like 25psi very much.

    No I don't have one yet, I'm gonna keep it at 22 psi until I get it on a dyno. I'll probably go to either Seres Engineering or Maxx depending on who has some free time after lockdown.
     

    1 hour ago, Roland@pcmtec said:

    The IAP going to 29.8 is because it would have gone into failure mode (29.8 is 101kpa eg atmospheric). We HIGHLY recommend you leave the standard overboost logic so that if this does occur the vehicle goes into a limp mode or at least pulls wastegate duty cycle. This may save your engine if you have a boost control failure.

    Yeah that'd probably be the reason I was getting DTC faults when I was at high boost. I haven't touched any engine protection features, if I setup the target boost properly and ends up boosting over that by a certain amount it should go into limp mode shouldn't it?
     

    1 hour ago, Puffwagon said:

    Yeah you gotta have some overboost protection or you might just hit 45 in the mid...ask me how I know

    Yikes, I'm guessing you blew a motor doing that 😅

  14. Thanks, I'm running 11.8 (0.80 lambda) on E85 at the moment but I'm still a little scared to go leaner.

    I've upped my timing a fair bit and have heard no knock until around 17-18 deg so I'm pretty happy with that.

    I think I've found out my issue for the datalogging showing ~22 psi and my boost guage showing ~24 psi. I think I need to get another boost sensor and follow the directions in HOWTO: Custom OS TMAP Switch over logic - Eg run 4+ bar of boost with a 2 bar map sensor.

    Is the TMAP sensor the one in the manifold and the boost sensor the one just before the throttle body? Do I only have to change the boost sensor and use the custom os to switch between them at a specific boost threshold?

    Also I was looking at the datalog and saw the IAP parameter go from 70.9 in/hg to 29.8 in/hg and stay there until I let off. That would have to do with it being over its limit wouldn't it?

    Ps. My boost didn't go over 25psi, my fuel didn't lean out past 0.82 and I didn't hear any knock so my engine is still okay.

  15. Hey you’ve got a very good point there, I will have to get it on a dyno.

    I also see what you mean by pretty much swapping boost for timing

    Thanks for the info on what your running I’ll take that into account when I’m getting timing and boost setup.

    What afr are you targeting?

  16. I've attached the log that shows all those params, sorry its in csv.

    AFR is shown as DLP1_EQU in the log, its running at 0.80 lambda or 11.76 afr

    Not sure what the dtc fault is, but it happens when I'm at high load and the dash seems to disconnect. When it happens and I'm below 80ks range it'll show the low fuel warning and say like 72km remaining. And the instant fuel economy will not work for around 10 seconds and then it'll show up again.

    Yeah fuel pressure is good

    I haven't checked for intake leaks

    21-08-2021 03-53-19 PM Log.csv

  17. Hey,

    I’ve just been out road tuning my XR6 Turbo and can’t get any more power out of it.

    I’m not sure what info to provide but if I do 2 runs, one at 20psi and one at 25psi with the only differences being the timing is retarded around 2° it still won’t make more power.

    20psi - 0.80 lambda - 16°

    25psi - 0.80 lambda - 14.5°

    Both runs are from 3.5k - 6k rpm

    I’ve just put it back to 20psi for now until I figure out what the issue is.

    Any feedback is greatly appreciated, thanks!

  18. 4 minutes ago, finnigan001 said:

    Just a heads up, your data log is doing the 'show only every 50ms' bug when you save from opening a saved teclog file.  You may need to update your version if not currently using the newest version.

    That's weird cause I saved to csv directly after logging... I'm on 1.25. Didn't even know that was an issue.

    5 minutes ago, finnigan001 said:

    Also your logging spark mod vct, not sure if you're intending total final spark. i cant remember the tag off the top off my head for it.

    I'm logging SAFTOT, I think that's the final spark timing? I'm probably wrong though.

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