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I dont have a wife anymore so I think a 90 degree hood exit + external gate is the real answer to this problem

I bypassed the boost control / WG solenoid and ran an air line from the compressor housing straight to the wastegate as puffwagon suggested and it behaves exactly the same. It seems like its just overboosting because of the stock wastegate port size and I was overthinking it by the looks of things. Now I'm on the lookout for a ported hot-side, considering doing it and a flapper mod myself but ill see what I can find first.

That sounds almost exactly what is happening, I did set the preload on the stronger side rather than the lighter side. So I have a few mechanical things working against me. However I think I am also having something interfere with closed loop control that I have yet to identify. I have not really been game enough to do a lot of testing due to how far it spikes but the way I would describe it is that you can really hear the wastegate shut at 4000rpm. If I was in closed loop and requesting 10psi, doing a long 4th gear pull it would get a stable 10psi until 4000, then instantly it makes a very noticeable change in turbo sound, id say the gate closes somewhat and it winds up much harder and I get off the throttle as soon as I hear it. Perhaps that is what you are describing at that sweet spot and it just starts making a lot more boost. I have tried to zero out auF0326 and auF0318 in case that was doing anything but this made no change. I need to do more testing, but I dont believe it was doing this in open loop, only closed. It behaves just fine in open loop except for the constant WG Solenoid pulsing thing. After I got back home from an open loop test, I noticed that the WG Solenoid was just constantly pulsing when I turned the car off and again when I tried to turn the car on about half an hour later. I put the previous tune back on that didnt force open loop and the pulsing went away. I was going to try and figure out what that was before I did more testing, but I was able to get a pretty stable boost curve on open loop without this giant 4krpm spike (at least I think I was). I just need to iron out that pulsing thing and I can happily run it in open loop to do some more confirmed testing. I dont get a heap of time to work on the car and dont have a lot of roads to test on that are suitable so things take a little while for me to test with any consistency.

Thanks guys, your input is invaluable and appreciated. So no I am not running E85, I have only done two WOT pulls on the car in this condition. Once when I noticed the over-boost and once to log it, so that wont be happening again until things are figured out. I would have only done one pull but my assistant is my 12 year old son and we missed the first one 🙃 I have a few things to look at based off your suggestions. The turbo is a brand new Gen1 GT3582 that ive had unused for a while, it has a new IWG75 with a 7psi spring in it. I set the preload on it, I checked the movement of the flapper before I installed it. But I did not test it with a compressor to confirm complete movement of the actuator. Its not ported either so I would assume this would be causing some over-boosting as well, but I did not expect to see such an extreme case. I will take the turbo off, test the actuator fully before I get any baseline readings moving forward. I will probably see if I can find someone to do a flapper mod and porting on it while its off too then report back with some more results.

Could I get a sanity check on this datalog please? I seem to be getting control of the boost up until a certain point, if I set desired boost to 10psi I get 10psi. (on an external boost gauge) If I force it into open loop I seem to have good control over the boost with the Open Loop WG Duty Cycle map, except I seem to hear the solenoid pulsing constantly even when the engine is off but power is on so I might have done something wrong there. When it is in closed loop, it does what it is told until 4000rpm and then it just seems to shut the wastegate and feed it as much as it can. I am trying to track down the source of this but when I tried to get a log for this I noticed that the Desired Boost target was 0 and never changed but the Desired Boost Error is reflective of what boost the car is making. to get the vehicle to make any boost at all without going into limp/protection the auF1098 scalar has had to be adjusted. This was already set to -40 in the tune that was on the car before I changed anything and ive set it to stock and run into issues. I had to set it to something greater than stock to get it to make boost without going into limp mode/protection Have I uncovered a larger issue? Good god am I confused. 05-12-2023 04-44-44 PM Log.teclog

I know the tune is safe for the current boost level so ill be saving a copy of it in its current state, then reverting it back to stock and seeing if I can target the same numbers with the existing turbo by following the how-to guides so I dont have to worry about other factors. Then change the turbo over once I have confidence in my ability to control it properly and keep an eye on the vitals, Ive got a wideband and knock ears. I am only going from a 3576 to a 3582 so I am not going nuts with it....just yet. I'm looking forward to getting to know this software well, its fantastic so far.

Thanks mate, this is more or less the confidence boost I needed to get stuck into it. I just wasn't sure if there was something I missed before reverting stuff back to stock. Probably being over-cautious but ill go back to base and start learning with the guides.

Full disclaimer I am new to falcon PCM tuning although I have had some experience tuning some standalone ECU's and piggbacks in the past on the street. I cant seem to figure out how the tune on my car is commanding boost. The AUF16463 open loop duty cycle is set quite low across the whole range The AUF16459 target boost table is set to 13.8 the whole way through (which im sure would be causing boost error values as it cant get that boost everywhere) The AUF0511 boost sensor volt max has been set to 12v, I understand 4.8/4.9 is the recommended maximum to still retain boost safety so this has been disabled. The AUF1098 Boost error to activate P1227 was set to -43.8 instead of the stock value of -2.5 When I set this value back to stock and go for a drive I basically just get little to no boost so I assume this is triggering P1227 due to the fact that that AUF16459 is requesting impossible values at certain RPM. My question is, what on earth is controlling the boost if the open loop duty cycle is so low and enabling the boost error safety causes it to go to open loop only? What should I be looking at because the car makes between 14-16psi depending on the day. Is it just that the desired boost tables are set stupidly and they have disabled the safety because of it? Can I just tweak that table to some more realistic numbers and re-enable the AUF1098 to a more suitable value? I want to re-enable the safety measures and correctly control the boost using the guides listed here but to try and make sense of what has already been done to the tune by the previous owner is doing my head in. I need to replace the turbo and want to make sure I have a good understanding of what is controlling it before I change anything. I appreciate the time anyone takes to assist, or if this is better as a paid service please DM me? HAEK2KC.tec

Yeah I think I might have to go that route, Ideally I am just changing the turbo and bought this so I could modify the fuel tables myself and learn to tune with my own car. Now I'm this many dollars in and have to still get the car re-tuned from scratch so its a bit of an expensive kick in the guts to find out. Ill still need to find out what injectors they are before I get the car to a proper tuner. Thanks for the suggestion

I have purchased the workshop edition of PCMTec single vehicle edition, I have tried to read my cars PCM and found out it was tuner locked. I bought it already modified and tuned. I have no idea who the original tuner was, would support be able to assist me in finding out who previously tuned the vehicle so I can contact them about it? Or is my only option really to start from scratch here? (I really just want to get the injector data out of it as I have no idea what injectors are in the car and id rather not have to replace them)