JMSMotorsport
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Posts posted by JMSMotorsport
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Roland, having a issue with where I Set the Blend table to use 100% WG Duty at 70% E and the gauge is showing 73% but even commanding 90% on the gate it only gets to 60%?
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Thanks for the reply. I think I’ve found my issue.
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Update - Turns out fuel pressure is dropping after getting a higher boost run video of gauge - not sure if this is contributing to me using incorrect high slope to compensate at lower boost in turn causing the throttle tip in issue.
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Im Coming across a few issues, While the Car was on 98 I got my Injector song very close on the dyno happy days 300rwkw on 11psi - Added some E85 and I am at E70 - 13psi Now Idle was OK little lean and Cruise was the same adjusted the Low Slope and moved the breakpoint and it’s back. So I adjusted the high slip to get WOT back - now the issue has arrived that at Tip In it goes super fat? Took some out of the Pump Shot Gain - hasn’t changed it. I then turned the boost up to 17psi but not instead of the nice flat fuel line at about 5200 starts to go lean again? Fuel pressure climbs with boost as it should.
Light Blue (Boost) and Green (Lam) is at 13psi and Red (Boost) and Blue (Lam) at 17psi
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Just now, BeerTurbo said:
stock turbo MAP is 2 bar, but it will read up to 250kpa apparently. something like 22psi. But you would want to look at replacing it if you were going near that value.
Ended up sending the 3bar back and got the 4bar boost sensor and set it up as per the custom os
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58 minutes ago, Roland@pcmtec said:
That is the point of the logic, you switch over to using the 4 bar boost sensor just before you start pegging the TMAP sensor. You keep the stock TMAP and install a bigger boost sensor only, cheaper, simpler and less stuffing about. You also maintain the stock drivability of the standard calibrated TMAP, you can get good aftermarket TMAPs, but we have seen countless issues of them being installed wrong or having poor resolution at low kpa with certain brands/models.
I recommend the 4 bar boost sensor you can buy from IMS as they supply you with calibration data in a parameter file.
Unfortunately already bought the 3 bar tMAP from IMS. I guess they should let me return it and swap for the 4 bar boost sensor. Is the factory boost sensor 2bar? Would that mean I could use the logic to just switch to the factory boost sensor if only running 22psi
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53 minutes ago, Roland@pcmtec said:
The standard units are inHG. Turbo and non turbo offsets are inverted. One is negative, I don't know why Ford did that but make sure you use the correct value if you are using turbo logic enabled or not.
Factory BF Mk2 Turbo
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Wouldn’t setting it up that way mean it would use the Boost sensor not the TMAP? I guess next time I should change to a bigger boost sensor rather then tMAP and set up this way.
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Am I right in thinking that with a 3bar tMAP fitted and scaled it will never go over the 15v to trigger the boost sensor as per auF100000?
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On 10/7/2020 at 12:36 PM, Darryl@pcmtec said:
Sam, I just rechecked and 11 kpa is 3.2483 like you said. Pressure differential would be 87.409 => Slope 19.424, back feeding and Offset => 1.607
Good spotting.
Just Confirming the units is inHg and that auF0037 is 19.424 & auF0038 is 1.607
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I had read this and is what I wanted to avoid as the actual logic influences to many other things.
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Just chasing some more info when the PCM is in driver demand does this mean that there is zero torque reduction happening and the engine is getting all available torque? Or is there a Driver Demand torque table? I tried to search in the software but cam back with nothing.
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Roland, cheers for the reply. It’s NA so no boost to worry about and stock injectors so a win there. Managed to fudge it enough to get it on the track running safely. Ended up zeroing out both overlap and advance tables and then played around with them from there. Will log the cam error next time to be sure all is well. Not sure about the cams but the way it was behaving I feel it most definitely had overlap ground into them as I used some negative numbers to help the popping. It needs a lot more time to get it dialled in but run out and does what it needs to hold a rolling start and then go flat in 2nd for the remainder.
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First time playing with a cammed Barra. It’s NA FG ecu and in a speedway car so street manners isn’t an issue. But trying to nail down an issue with it going lean with it loaded on the dyno at say 1200rpm and then laying into it. Trying to replicate the rolling start they do.
Am I best to use the Tuning Correction table rather then fudging the SLOPE. As I find just light throttle cruising at around 30deg VCT on the slop I have it around lambda 1 but if I had some throttle holding steady load it goes super lean and starts to pop and carry on while still being in the 30deg are on the SLOPE?
I’ve also had zero gains from either retarding or advancing the VCT slightly, Am I best to just Zero out the table’s both Overlap and Intake VCT at load 1 and then advance or retard each RPM point individually until return are null then move into the next one?
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I don’t have that available even thou I have the workshop version. Must not have been updated in the system.
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How do I access the sub forum? Was never sent an invite link.
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Wondering what wideband people are using with PCMtec, currently have an AEM but it’s noisy and annoying. Have been through diag with tech support but we can’t get it any smoother.
Cheers.
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Happy to jump In on this aswell
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3 minutes ago, yoda598 said:
This is what I put together, works well. Mainly used in manual setups. Yet to test in an auto with a big stally.
This is what I’m chasing. Would you mind sharing the settings that achieved this?
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Cheers Roland, will keep experimenting.
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Hmm I must have missed something when going that way. Won’t it just continue to rev?
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1 hour ago, Roland@pcmtec said:
What is the goal? Almost all the time a soft limiter with spark retard is better. You don't need a full cyl cutout when in gear otherwise you loose too much torque and it makes for inconsistent launches.
You can of course put a simple rev limiter in the launch tune though, you will need to adjust the deadband/hysterisis though as otherwise it will drop 2-300 rpm per bounce.
Customer was after the ability to be rolling next to someone on the streets of Mexico pull the cruise back stomp the pedal to build boost and let it go.
I do have a limiter setup and I think you may have given me what to do with the dead band. Do I increase or decrease? Or just simply play around with it.
I have it making around 14psi on the launch tune as is. But as it hits the limiter it drops then comes back up due to the big rpm drop.
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The coils are straight from Ford. I’m leaning towards valve float, but I can’t see it being an issue as there fairly new crow springs, but that’s where everything is pointing. No lumpy idle after a pull, knock sensors are disabled with e85, I run Tune 2 at 15-16psi and no issues.
Interesting thing is I pulled it off the dyno and it’s clearly been spinning the tires. I will road test it to see but I’m wondering if it the tire loading and unloading on the roller as it comes onto boost that’s giving me that jolting miss I’m feeling. 🤔
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Chasing an annoying problem. Run down on the car is Crow Springs, Bigger Front Mount, Turbosmart Actuator 12psi spring, high flowed turbo, new plugs and NGK coils on E85 - have tried anywhere from 15-19 degrees doesn’t really change and lambda .75-.85. As soon as it hits 20psi engine gets a miss that clears. Plug gap went from .7-.6 now at .55 still the same. Any advice? I have also noticed that my actual timing isn’t what I’m commanding - it’s pulling timing and logging all the spark parameters and doesn’t show where it’s getting pulled from?
Flex Fuel Tunning Issues
in Engine Tuning (AUS)
Posted
Open Loop, Wastegate Table is set to .9 but logger shows 60%
Will get file shortly.