hjtrbo
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Posts posted by hjtrbo
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It's not one of these ones is it? Pouring cold water on it is the fix
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Very nice, good for mid 7s. More clamp than I'll ever need.
Bluestreak 6R80 E-Clutch Upgrade 3-4 Shift (11-17 Mustang / F150) (beefcakeracing.com)
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23 minutes ago, Puffwagon said:
All those wot shift hits on the input shaft, along with the power required to run a 9, will eventually snap it. They twist a considerable amount before breaking and will break from outright power, even with no wot shifts.
That sux, ain't nothing that can be done in the tune when she's gonna shear off just from transmitting bulk torque in steady state.
If I can get my 220,000km standard box to hold 520rwkw+ for another 20,000km hard daily driving I'm calling that a success.
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Agree.
What's the current Oceania benchmark for a stock ZF that still does daily duties? 9s or 10s something???
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... and slamming the shift time down to less than 150ms without sufficient pressure to get it done.
The torque ramp back from a shift is still a bit of a mystery that I'm interested in. There's a few tables that you notice in the OE cals that give some clues.
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With that said, it still doesn't prohibit you from going your own way and then come back here with data and questions about what you're seeing. In that case, people can relate their own experiences and perhaps come to some direction that will be beneficial to your build.
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You can't make a broad statement like that.
The builders tuner won't be posting their tips here. You need to use first principals and a fundamental understanding of a clutch to clutch transmission along with good high sample frequency data logs to work out which direction to go with your settings.
At this stage with regards to the small amount of detailed ZF information publicly available, there is a strong financial / reliability argument to stick with a build shop / tuner combo that has a good track record.
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Broadly related to the topic.
Home built injector dead time tester.
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Yeah no shit bro hehe. Which reminds me, I need to get back onto the unofficial PCMTEC map sweeper box. A part of the upcoming tuner aide tool suite from the N² group of companies lol.
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21 minutes ago, Puffwagon said:
I need some egt's wired into my dlp8
Plus a wideband, fuel pressure sensor, exhaust manifold pressure (back pressure), turbo speed, coolant pressure, oil pressure, oil temperature & tuner nerd knock box output. That takes you up to 14 inputs
. Might be time for a Link ECU bro. Or at the least a custom box with configurable inputs and some basic logic that can fail safe the engine. Another project???
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What I think Roland was saying is the issue is in the PCM. Taking the load off 5th and 6th is a good idea. Especially in your case, with your high stall / big turbskie / big cam, if you're in manual 6th, she'll flash up and generate some crazy torque numbers pretty quickly 😊. I don't think 6th gear was designed to take 1200+Nm.
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It runs as you would normally have those tables setup for either closed or open loop.
I.e.
If open loop the boost by gear follows the open loop WGDC table for each gear row. It still does output the boost target as per what is commanded in the desired boost table so that needs to be setup for each gear a couple of psi above actual so the overboost protection can still operate. But obviously being open loop, ultimately the OL WGDC table sets the boost.
If closed loop, it sets the boost target as per desired boost table. The closed loop calc will also use the respective OL WGDC table gear row.
Geez, hope that makes sense???
If you weren't running boost by gear before, and then choose to enable it after already having tuned the OL / CL boost tables, then you will have to go back and tune those again and for each gear.
And as per Rolands information, if running a ZF just make rows 4, 5 & 6th gear all the same. If you're running closed loop boost control, It's a bit of a pain in the ass to set up 4, 5 & 6 because if tuned in a TCC locked nearly all the time strategy, in 6th gear it can build full boost by 2200rpm. It's more like 2800rpm in 4th gear. To get the tune right and not trigger overboost in 6th and not spend to long in underboost on 4th where you can get a boost spike, you need to do back and forward with 4th and 6th a few times until you have a compromise. Open loop is much easier but still requires the back and forward to ensure you don't build to much boost in 6th.
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Too easy, I'll definitely do that. Ute is still of the road for a little while.
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I'm thinking of the numerous days when I'm an idiot and leave the ZF in Tiptronic 6th and give it the beans to over take a car on the terrible Vic Roads pot hole laden country roads on my journey to work. TCC unlocks and flashes up, I get 26 pound of boost and 1000+Nm at 2,500rpm in 6th gear.
I know it's not easy doing what you do. I remember there was some ideas being thrown about a while ago, but if maybe you have another sprog, that you may have some bored moments and could spare some time to revisit the code to see if there is a viable work around?
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^^^ Absolutely. The boost error on spool up if set right will bring the boost error cam modifier tables into play and help it to spool up faster
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Just guessing, a couple of hundred maybe. You're paying for the knowledge, not the time it takes.
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He's a kiwi @Whiteford. He's close to Christchurch / Dunedin if you know any one over there the he can reach out to that can do the OS flash for him???
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... or swapping the TCMs will also work. In your case though your FG valve body is contaminated. It'll need to be pulled apart and serviced.
Flashing the FG os will be cheaper.
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You have to flash the OS in the BF with a FG. You'll need to track someone down to do that, it's a specialised task. Ford won't be able to do it.
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Pcmtec is awesome in that they'll let you buy the cheap version, then later when you want to upgrade to professional / worlshop etc they'll only charge you the price difference to do it. With a pricing model like that you've got nothing to lose having a crack. Good luck.
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See if you can get the tune off the old PCM first.
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Lol, I can imagine. First time looking at Mustang cal. Those mapped point spark tables look like there is a bit in it to get the tune right.
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Territory Intermittent Coil Failure
in General
Posted
As it's intermittent you need to have a scope hooked up logging. You'd be looking at the voltage at the connector as well as the current. When it breaks down you'll clearly see it. Pico scope do nice gear for auto applications. Cheaper to buy new genuine coils.