dat111
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Posts posted by dat111
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hey all, wanted to find out, if anybody has a tune laying around that has the indepenant cam timing from the F6 laying around for a btr auto.
thanks all ! -
long shot, would anybody have a BA falcon turbo .tec laying around with the cam timing done, so i could do the ol copy&paste
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my guess will be the bell housings will be different with numerous other stuff including software.
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hey guys, just a quick question.
checked my adaptions today
seems they are minus now.. what does that exactly mean? ive ever only seen >positive numbers
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On 4/26/2022 at 6:03 PM, Puffwagon said:
You can let them go to 2.0 on 98 before it's too much.
is that 2 degrees of knock?
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should have mentioned. its a NA+t running gate pressure, with a full stock turbo dump to tail pipe end.
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hey all, just brought a turbo for my car.
from my googling it suggests its a 6psi replacemen, according to GCG turbos website. . but its off an FG f6 turbo.
its the wastegate controller that it the factor that determines the wastegate pressure between all the cars is that correct?
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just on this.
if i was to reduce the sensitivity by 20% does it = 20% less of X number, or is that just an on paper theory?
(still running the NA sensor data on my NA+T just want to understand how that it works -
hey all, kinda a off topic thing.
what do you described as "tuned".. ive tuned my car to the point im happy enough with it, is proper tuned everything is dialed in perfectly? or done well enough that it works just fine?
(asking for people own preconceived idea of tuned)
my NA+T is using 99% of a F6 tune with modified base fuel/BLK maps to suit. -
would this be worth switching on a NA+T just in general?
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On 3/27/2022 at 8:53 PM, Puffwagon said:
Lower is less sensitive.
Imo you can lower them by 20% and be fine. If you lower them by 30% you will crack a piston.
Don't take my word for it tho, get some knock ears and work it out yourself. Tuning a stock motor and specifically the knock maps without knock ears is asking for trouble.
hey puff wagon, do you have any information on what the "auto octane/91" calibrations do?
auto octane switch 0/1 (was 1/1
91 octane was 0/0 now its 1/0
(i think i may have turned off the auto octane, an turned on the 91 octane -.- LOL! -
4 hours ago, Roland@pcmtec said:
They transients will always swing when in open loop. Closed loop will always be better.
Why not drill a second bung? That's what I did when I was learning.
becuase im a tight arse lol. ive turned the rear 02 off, i did have it in there.. but when i pulled it out.. the sensor was can opened (the guy who did o2 bung, welded it horrible)
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6 hours ago, hjtrbo said:
It will obey base fuel but if your injectors are off then who knows what you'll end up with out the tail pipe as your O2 sensors are no longer correcting the injector data error.
It is a another good option to tune a car in open loop. Ideally you would have 1 in your open loop table for idle and cruise areas and (assuming turbo) 0.8 in your high load areas.
Then plot lambda from your wideband against commanded EQ. From there you would dial in your injectors so that the wideband matches the base fuel table +/- a few % in steady state driving. Then rinse and repeat on a tank of E85. There will be a few back and forwards.
After that switch on closed loop and enjoy. Now that you know your injector is as close as it will ever get then any small fuelling adjustments can be made in the VE tables for 98 and e85 tunes.
im running the stock B series injectors on my bf NA turbo. so im still using the stock injector data (new ones are being installed) assuming they are stock, would it obey the commanded fuel lambda
reason i wanted to turn off closed loop for good. so i could stick a wideband 02 sensor in the dump where the front 02 resides (i get LSU 4.9 sensors for a blooody good price)
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just a quick question, once turning off the 02 sensors/run open loop all the time.
with fueling will i need to redial in fueling? or will it obey the fueling base table. -
hey guys,
being having a chat with a mate,
the knock sensor sensitivity, it says higher numbers are more sensitivity
ive also read on the forum that its opposite way around lesser numbers are more sensitivity
so which is which
**just for comparison**
NA sensors (on the left) are higher then F6 (on the right)
an then the lower right hand is a tune i had touched up for me by a local tuner.
an then (not pictured) the knock sensors
(stand alone photo is me just messing around)
.thumb.png.279a646bbfd31b02e70ff331095853c1.png)
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7 minutes ago, Puffwagon said:
Yeah nah you don't need lube to install it. How well is it stuck in there? If it's properly jammed in there then leave it. If it comes out easily then perhaps clean it off and reinstall it, providing it's undamaged.
im not 100%, i did buy 2 seals. so i might just rip that one out. an put the new one in. the seals only cost me about 4 dollars from work. so it certainly is helpful!
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3 minutes ago, Puffwagon said:
You need lube on the inside of the seal. A splash of trans fluid is fine but a dry converter into a dry seal is not.
i meant i used lube to help install it, i thought it is meant to be installed dry. an then as you said a drip of trans fluid on the neck an the seal
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theres also ZF00016 which is shift adaption at 70 degrees so im not 100% tbh.
keep us updated! please, as its crazy these boxes have been out for nearly 20 years now. an still stuff have no idea on them!! the BTR are such a simple box. -
**he most recent one is is where the clutches have been named** (after i did the seals an trans fluid service) ( checked it the way before it was at 500 for clutchD)
**the one under the german names, are about 1 month ago** (before i did the seals an trains fluid)
we can guess that clutch E isnt very happy, but it shifts just fine. an the adaption hasn't changed in a long time.
i have done a trans cooler install with the supervision of a trans expert he suggested to not worry about the thermostat controller, my trans temps are the exact as yours between 55-65. the omcoming onto the highway was making mine slip an go into limp mode, i upped the line pressure from 5.1 - 7 bar an the 9.1 bar upto 10bar an it seems to be okay!
i do have a 2nd box at a mates workshop. thats got 125km on it. which ive done all the deals on it, an drained all the fluid out of of it. (need to do front seal, as i wasnt meant to use lube on the converter seal)
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attached is 2 logs. since i have did this, i played around with the tune. an have went back to stock. upped the line pressure. in 5 an 6 by 10%. an it seems to be hold just fine.
i also have serviced done bridge seal, etc etc.
with the clutch adaptions are they the holy bible on wear? or are they just a "guide" clutch E hasnt changed. but i havent cant reset the adaptions (as ive only got pro)
any feedback would be appreciated -
i couldnt find much posted about the stuff above an what they do an what they do.. also does anybody have any information on what the nominal slip times do?
i couldnt find much even with keywoard searching -
should give an update on the new box i got i guess. hasnt been fitted.
with some knowledge of people, an pulling off the trans sump it actually looks really clean inside there!! spotless you might as well say!!
i also had a recommendation from puffwagon about the syn-TS.. i opted for the LV, i put another fella onto it. he suggested its better then the LG fluid. -
GW is good oil ma man.... bmv... eh
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stupid question. an truth be told i dont know.. but what oil are you running in it? an how much power?
alot of people have alot of issues with penrite BMV at high temps an high hp levels
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BA A4 Turbo with BF F6 merged rom for independant cam control issue
in Engine Tuning (AUS)
Posted
im following this, trying to figure out if i am able to do it on PRO,