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2018+ Mustang 5.0 Ghost Cams


WhiteGT

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Like the title says, just needing a little guidance. I figure the settings I need to play with are with in the "Mapped Points for VCT", but there is like 26 points, I don't know for sure what each one correlates to, I'm figuring engine rpm?  Anyone have experience with this?

vcttable.jpg

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So I found over on the How to forums this is mentioned, But I can not seem to find the table he is talking about.

 

"In the 5.0 Coyote v8s we have found the figures below tend to give quite a good result without even touching the cam timing. There can be a hesitation when transitioning from idle to throttle, so you may need to add timing to the low load main spark map to help the transition. In the 6 cylinders the numbers don't seem to affect drivability much so you can put silly figures like above without issue.

image.png.a884cc7c3d9a5b380aab1465a57e3c0b.png"

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On 7/25/2023 at 1:22 AM, WhiteGT said:

So I found over on the How to forums this is mentioned, But I can not seem to find the table he is talking about.

 

"In the 5.0 Coyote v8s we have found the figures below tend to give quite a good result without even touching the cam timing. There can be a hesitation when transitioning from idle to throttle, so you may need to add timing to the low load main spark map to help the transition. In the 6 cylinders the numbers don't seem to affect drivability much so you can put silly figures like above without issue.

image.png.a884cc7c3d9a5b380aab1465a57e3c0b.png"

The way the Australian non-Mustang Coyotes are controlled is different than the Mustang Coyote. That method won’t work on the Mustang. 

You’ll need to use the distance tables and the distance table indexes to command a mapped point that has overlap at idle. 

I have seen people have success using mapped point 10, which is -20 intake and 0 exhaust. You’ll need to add mapped point 10 to the optimal stability index and then command it in the idle rpm and load range via the optimal stability distance table. If you play with the scaling in the rpm columns in the distance table you can get it to go back to normal cam timing as soon as you go over 1000rpm. Additionally you may need to change the max load for optimal stability. There’s a table for that, and it’s probably not scaled well for this. I’d re-scale the rpm axis so you have 1000-1100rpm defined and then set those, and any lower rpm, cells to 0.3. 

You will likely have to bump up the idle speed to 800-900rpm. You’ll also probably have to play with MBT spark for mapped point 10 in the idle range to get the chop you want. Idle reserve torque is another area that might need attention  

There may be a few other tweaks required to get it working exactly how you want, but that should get you on track. 

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  • 1 month later...

Sorry, I've been busy with work just got a chance to play with the mustang.  But I'm not sure I'm in the correct area of the software. Please check my screen shots.   on the index I have 0-6 do I just renumber one of them to 10? and on the other table I see 850 rpm? or these the correct areas to change?

index.jpg

table.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 8/30/2023 at 5:15 PM, WhiteGT said:

Sorry, I've been busy with work just got a chance to play with the mustang.  But I'm not sure I'm in the correct area of the software. Please check my screen shots.   on the index I have 0-6 do I just renumber one of them to 10? and on the other table I see 850 rpm? or these the correct areas to change?

index.jpg

table.jpg

For the index table I’d change 4 from 1 to 10. Then in the distance table command 4, which is really mapped point 10. But, again, I’d rescale the rpm axis so it comes out of mapped point 10 over 1000rpm or something close to that. 

2 minutes ago, WhiteGT said:

Well, I decided to flash what I thought was correct, and the car idles up and down, between 620-850, no real chop. On the MBT Spark for map 10 what do you suggest? There is alot going on in that table. 

MBT SPARK10.jpg

In the idle area, so in the 0.25 load line and from 450 to 1000rpm I’d start by cutting the spark 10% at a time until it has the chop you want. This assumes it’s commanding the correct mapped point 10. You also may need to adjust some of the idle parameters to make it work correctly. 
 

I will have to see if I have some time to jump on my laptop and get some screenshots. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

well, after messing with it over and over, I figured it out. Got a nice chop now, I can post what all my changes was tomorrow to maybe help someone else. Its just to late now. Thanks for all your help mejohn50. You defiantly held my hand during this.  Now on to tweeking it, Its pretty good but idle will fall a little low after a rev, but comes right back.

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okay back on topic, this morning when engine was cold, car did normal cold start, but after about 30 secs started trying to chop.  This was no good as the engine wasn't warm.  computer could control it. I edited the file a little, and warmed the engine up, car ran fine. 

Is there a way so that the computer will not start using mapped 10, until the engine reaches a certain temperature like 170?

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🤣 I really should have left it alone... car sounds so good. But now I've gotten Check engine light, flashed back to stock clear codes and it comes back. P0430 either I have cooked a cat or burned a sensor. I do have to say with ghost came the idle stinks bad, not like raw fuel but smells more like eggs. I'm not mad, just want other people to know it's a possibility.  As my buddy always says it cost money to look cool. 

I was planning on catless longtubes anyways. But I will have to find a tuner, I believe this software will not let me disable the rear cats. 

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6 minutes ago, WhiteGT said:

🤣 I really should have left it alone... car sounds so good. But now I've gotten Check engine light, flashed back to stock clear codes and it comes back. P0430 either I have cooked a cat or burned a sensor. I do have to say with ghost came the idle stinks bad, not like raw fuel but smells more like eggs. I'm not mad, just want other people to know it's a possibility.  As my buddy always says it cost money to look cool. 

I was planning on catless longtubes anyways. But I will have to find a tuner, I believe this software will not let me disable the rear cats. 

That can happen. Gotta pay to play. 
 

You won’t be able to disable rear O2 sensors with PCMTEC, and no pro tuners will do it either. You have to deal with the check engine light or find other ways to deal with it. 

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  • 3 months later...

This doesn't answer your question but it might help assist you with how the HDFX system works. This is a stock 18+ GT showing how the mapped points track.

image.thumb.png.f3636f7c4de9b690cdc9da16827dcae2.png

standardVCTschedule.thumb.png.ef1d02f86cf184c28d1c572dbd940aa7.png

(I used megalog viewer HD for the pretty graphs)

I also recommend using the following views instead of the individual tables as you can see everything on one screen

image.png.9621a30dabf77fb78981fbcc54e0fae4.png

image.png.3b0bb1cf1db765cb75676ea33977e114.png

image.png.5ac8f67a3ba0ac9d5b9625c0237cf71a.png

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Nicely visualised, that's a great way to view the various virtual engines the calibrators created to perform each given task.
Its infuriating to work with though, even with ATI Vision 5 as your calibrating platform!

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