BeerTurbo
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I ended up solving this, but not myself...
I spoke with ShiftKitsAus about there tail-shaft sensor, but he said he could knock me up a custom converter to use the AC style output from ABS sensor to DC square-wave input the Barra ecu required.
He knocked this up with a divisor of 4, as the abs ring had 50 teeth...he said this will give me close to std output.
This is all working , but i cant test gps to output speed reading as my yards not that big ahahaha
This weekend on the track ill be able to see how accurate it is, if its out ill be able to use AUF0393 to fine tune it.
cheers
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cheers,
the front has the ABS rings and mounts - possibly because i replaced the hubs with new ones and the arms , so there is a level of convenience to use them now.
I'm finding out the abs sensors output is not linear square wave 5v output like the original sensor, so ill need to look for an alternative option or converter to boost the signal from them.
the tail-shaft mounts look good, but i have the turbo diff flange that the premade kit wont bolt to.
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2 hours ago, Roland@pcmtec said:
Yes you need a wheel speed input for things to function properly. Your best option would be to add a speed sensor to the tailshaft, lots of people do this in the conversion world but it is an added cost.
You can also tune out the wheel speed input but I can't tell you what is required, there are lots of limp modes that kick in, some only occur 10-15 minutes after starting the car. Quite a few of the conversion guys fix this but I can't share what they do obviously as its their bread and butter. You could try Brett Hogno here, he might be able to assist.
https://www.facebook.com/Custom-Machine-Works-856789001022313/
do you know if the two speed sensor types output the same type of output? voltage or frequencies?
i was hoping i could just connect one of the wheel speed sensors, inline with a jaycar speed converter back into the std loom and adjust till vaguely accurate.
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Howdy
Ive recently changed my ba+t from a t5z with a t5 rear housing and speedo drive to a t56 setup. The t56 does not have a speedo drive output.
the chassis is the base model, so it has no ABS or Wheel speed sensors..so this leaves me without speed input.
will the ECU care? if it does, what can i change to make it happy?
its not a road car so i cant road test it first and id rather not rock up to the track to find out ive got a limp mode due to speed source.
seciondarly, the speedo drive has a three wire plug...can i install a 2 pin wheel speed sensor and then wire it through this gearbox input. to get something ?
cheers
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looks like a cheap way to do things, pitty there no decent e85 availability in WA
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Can you just cheat and bump the idle up 150 or so rpm?
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5 hours ago, finnigan001 said:
May not have anything to do with your injector data. If its only doing it after a long run on a strip at WOT it maybe exhaust or turbo heat protection kicking in and causing the AFR to default to 0.7(from memory)... There are 2 areas to look at in fuel section and the turbocharger section.
where is the 0.7 set?
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1 minute ago, Lucky said:
Hey Roland just reading the above info I also have a boost spike that happens between gear changes what parameters can be changed to help with this issue, i noticed you mentioned
Just drop the duty cycle to 0% during a shift, that will stop it spiking.
where would i find this option to adjust I also have a turbo territory it wasn't a problem until the highflow Cat went in ?
that setting is for a fg based computer, not the bf based computer we have in the territory. i was not able to find a DC on gear-change in my config.
turbos barras have a known problem where as you fit a higher flow exhaust, the turbo works to efficiently and the size of the stock wastgate is not generally large enough to vent boost at higher pressures/better exhausts.
what sort of boost spike are you talking about?
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2 hours ago, yoda598 said:
i have worked them out now. theyre more like 1600cc at 4 bar. yes, they are cheap crap. but they were free haha. i have a spare engine so im just gonna test with them. see what happens. so far good results. its on e85 now, no issues at all.
thats a big jump... most injectors would go from 1000cc to 1150 or so cc with 4 bar regs......was this tested on flow bench? otherwise id be back to considering leaky injectors causing bad afr readings
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1 minute ago, Roland@pcmtec said:
A customer had one injector flow 25% less due to this retarded rail design. Can be all sorts of reasons things don't work. I am a big believer of the OEM seal of approval.
I bet there are worse issues out there than this as well!
thats a solid WOW.
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have you read the injector thread?
just eyeballing your data your high slope looks a bit low for 1000's.
also, as mentioned, brand name injector, with data is what you need.
perhaps get your flowtested -
After much testing its come down to a mechanical issue, with the high flow exhaust we are not able to accurately control boost with the standard internal gate.
I have begun the route of fitting an 45mm external wastegate to the car, this should resolve the mechanical flow issues.
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11 hours ago, Roland@pcmtec said:
Which strategy and what version of the editor do you have? BF does not have these tables I believe from memory.
HACH4K6.HEX / 77DB
PROFESSIONAL
being a territory, i assume its more in line with the BF and wont have the FG things for DC during shift event.
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56 minutes ago, Roland@pcmtec said:
Just drop the duty cycle to 0% during a shift, that will stop it spiking.
Hi Roland,
i dont have auF2714 or auF3002 on the territory file.
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3 hours ago, Roland@pcmtec said:
Extra spark retard will cause a boost spike. The FGs have a wastegate adder for spark retard to pull back the duty cycle. This will stop a boost spike, someone else on here commented in a thread about it.
yeah its also kinda why i asked about that elec bov trigger during gear change, cause its allways sort of done it to an extent.
but i guess if spark retards still spooling turbo, having the bov dump may just cause it to overspeed the turbine.
idk, ill keep playing.
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I changed auF1479 to .95 and it certainly reduced the noise and angryness of the pops and bangs.
then today i was getting a check engine light and traction control light was coming one randomly, but going away after a restart then sometimes coming back.
I actually payed attention to my boost gauge (it has no light and recent been all night driving).. its over boosting in 1-2 since removing the mid muffler and on the shift event its holding quit a bit of boost in the change even, like 16 psi...so the check eng light was the wastegate check/fail dealo...
i data loged all 4 wheel sensors and the steering angle and everything seems to be working when i did the data log...so i guess ill be lucky to catch it when its a problem.
anywho, reduced boost down to wg and it holding 9 and not being a spikey boy - the shift event is much more normal.
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i do have :
auF1479 : Lambse value to be used when the TQ_SELECT_SW (tq_source) == 0 : set to 0.8 instead of 1.04.
should i change that back?
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On 8/5/2019 at 10:29 AM, Roland@pcmtec said:
Do a compare of the old strategy to new, its possible it was out of a vehicle with a different diff ratio. Compare will show everything. You can try different TCM calibrations for free (you get 2.5*PCM license count TCM licenses included) Just make sure the TCM OSID, diff ratio and calibration level match (make sure ZF03987 and auF1692 are the same number).
Everything looks the same, minus the ZF serial number. strat, diff etc etc all seem same.
ZF03987 and auF1692 are both 0 for both files.
All torque and spark type requestors are stock.
good chance i reset the tcm adaptive when i installed the box, would need to undergo a long learn process? -
On 6/11/2019 at 8:11 AM, Roland@pcmtec said:
People control boost this way in race/rally cars, venting the air back to the intake to keep turbo rpm high and just jamming the wastegate shut. You can overspeed the turbo doing this though and it will also make the turbo run less efficiently but you will get much better response.
At low rpm this isn't going to help you get more boost as it would only assist once you got above your boost threshold.
The way to do it is to hook up a boost controller to a wastegate and replace the bov with a wastegate.
see they have purely electronic control bovs now through turbo-smart. would it be something on the hitlist for you guys to program in, trigger a bov event of auto gearshift?
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4 minutes ago, finnigan001 said:
So from what im understanding is that when shifting up your getting the 'fart' after the revs have reduced?
Was the new ZF out of a similar car/pcm strategy?
I would look at your torque requestor settings. Transmission torque truncation and Shift torque reduction and see if there is anything weird in there. is the pcm asking for a greater reduction than actually required etc. This might be the chase if you've made some changes previously to help with the old ZF issues.
Hey
Yeah she will drop 1500 rps or there about's then Fart.
Yeah it was out of a same build car (Sy turbo territory) one year older than mine, so pretty close.
I was reading another thread here and it said the fuel cut was the one that makes the burble on ZF gear-change, not the spark retard as i orgionally thought.
I will have to check the live file, as the file i brought to work has all the stock torque settings. perhaps i changed it back but dident flash them in.
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If you are using the Turbo fuel pressure regulator to bring you up to spec with a turbo fuel injector, then you can proberly do a compare/copy all from a turbo ECM..
This is how we got my ba na-turbo conversion working, however depending on how you do the setup you may run into hickups, but these would be resolved by getting the car tunned.
Ideally you would use a larger injector, for example a F6 440cc injector as a basic upgrade, as the stock injectors are rubbish size.
if you have a free flowing exhaust you might want to look into even doing some broad changes to the speed density tables to help you get in the ballpark as it will defiantly go lean.
When i did my ba na-turbo i had a 3-inch straight through exhaust and the car was over-boosting and running super lean straight away - this was a na ecu with the straight turbo map copied over. The over-boosting was a mechanical issue, the running lean was more so a combination of all the things (stock tune, to much boost, not enough injector)
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Howdy,
ill do a little backstory -
Stock turbo territory with a bad ZF, drove it around fro a couple of months until 2nd gear was basically not there.The shifting was basically rubbish, so i have no mental reference of zf shifting.
Swapped trans on the weekend, while fitting high flow cat and middle muffler delete. now the exhaust is much more noticeable and can hear the engine much better.
So now the new trans did not need any programming interaction, it seems to just work. i pulled the file from pcmtech and it noticed the trans SN changed.
Car drives mint in most circumstances except for under most to full load shifts.Car seems to have a shift event triggered, lose around 1500 rpm, trigger the shift burble noise that i assume is super spark retard, while at the same time trying to lock in the next gear.
from what i can fine in videos most fg shift events events are immediately folowed by the burble and then a reduction of rpm before catching any gear.
so my question would be, where do i look / what should i be data lodging around this time to find out why im getting a disruptive burble so late?
cheers guys.
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13 hours ago, Puffwagon said:
That wouldn't work as you'd lose power from venting the compressed air. You'd be trying to stall up the na version of your motor instead of the turbo version.
Take a look here mate http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&title=The-AllElectronic-BlowOff-Valve&A=2188
if the air leak was done correctly surely you could find a balance between feeding the engine boost vs the turbine spin speed being higher and ready to force more boost down the engine throat when you remove it.
i actually only really got onto looking because of my present over-boost situation, while waiting for my ported exhaust housing to arrive.
Nispro have the overboost valve to dump charge air at a certain setpoint, GFB made or used to make a turbo overboost valve that would dump vacuum to the BOV if a certain boost pressure was reached, aka dumping charge air too.
got me thinking about using the ecu to control a mac valve on the bov to do the same thing.
i have a spare valve and hobs boost switch, i might play with the idea.
e85 base tune
in Engine Tuning (AUS)
Posted
hi,
You might want to look at changing your valve-springs, otherwise depending on the kms of the engine they could start floating as early as 8-10 psi.
auF0117 Stoichiometric Air Fuel Ratio, when using e85 try it around 9.7
your going to have to get your car tuned by a professional to create a fuel /spark map, there is to many variables and no one is going to want to be liable for giving your this over the internet.
there is a good thread here on understanding the SDT ford uses, this is how you get your car in the ballpark of the target afr's after changing injectors/turbo/exhaust/intakes.
as for spark you proberly going to want to pull timing if your doing it yourself, because without a dyno and knock ears your going to have no idea whats going on. with e85 you proberly wont notice knock until the pistons melted.