BeerTurbo
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Posts posted by BeerTurbo
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16 hours ago, iitzHarro said:
cheers mate should i also bump fuel cut up 200 rpm ? sometimes it hits hard enough to fall on its face and id assume thats probably really bad for it lol
personally i prefer to let it hit fuel cut, so i set fuel cut at the desired cut and the rev limiter higher than FC.
i had a BA ute with a btr and extractors, 3.7 diff etc etc and when id floor it it would bump redline....i simply lowerd the shift points at wide open till it worked...
similar thing happens with the teritory and ZF, but you can just make it shift faster
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whats boost level does it reach when you plant it through he midrange, its not overboosting is it?
how new are you coilpacks and whats plug gap are you running.
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I had an interesting scenario with my bf+t / zf conversion car this month, we fixed a boost leak and when it came up to a new higher boost level the trans would go into limp mode.
tried many tuning related things to no avail.
one time ti took out the speedo too.
was sugested to try new genuine ford coil and plugs, as when they die they create EMI that interfeers with the CANBUS on b series fords.
Put new plugs and just generic copper plugs in and the issue went away.
interesting note the old and new coils tested the same on the ohms meter...so that makes it hard to narrow down a dead coil.
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On 4/14/2022 at 12:51 PM, adhdesigns said:
Now I'm considering (when I get my new regulator) what happens when I fill her up with e85. Can I just change the fuelling from 14.6396 to 9.733 in this section and see what happens?
when i had an abundance of leftover e85 from the race car, i ran my territory well into fuel light - filled up with the e85, changed AUF0117, changed startup timming and set my boost back to WG pressure 8 psi.
the boost dial back was me being overly precocious as i only have a 255 in it.
Car ran normal as expected. i did notice the throttle tip in was richer than needed, but for the sake of using up leftover fuel i didn't bother playing with it.
when i was ready to put 98 back in, let it go to fuel light, put 98 in, drove till the wideband started reading rich (only like 5 kms) then put the settings back.
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On 8/7/2021 at 7:17 PM, Puffwagon said:
Stab the pickup into the coil wire and use that instead, in my experience it works a lot better.
Also be careful sticking a probe into your map/boost sensor. I had issues with the boost sensor not reading properly causing it to run up to 15psi more than commanded.
dosent the coil fire multiple times at idle for the barra?
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On 3/12/2022 at 8:45 PM, 05xtsleeper said:
I spent a couple of hours trying to chasing the fasle knock what the data logging is picking up sometimes I did a old tuning trick to lesson to the engine noises I can confirm that my noisy heat shield around the cat pipe can be heard from inside the intake manifold.
Is it possible to take away 2% across the board on the knock sensitivity?
cant you just fix / remove the heatsheild.
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I went looking for a sensor that had a range and the on/off like the falcon switch as i dident want to T and run two.
be interested if you can tee the vdo one back into factory and it just works?
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4 minutes ago, Hookey said:
Ok ill log torque source. Im guessing you are meaning upshift not downshift as that's what its doing. I just want it to hold the current gear until it revs out.
yeah that one
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you need to data log the torque source when it happens.
my territory used to halt power and down gear when traction control would kick in, but the traction control come on for no reason (for example you can awd launch it in the wet and barely shunt a wheel, in the dry no chance).
what i did was take away most of the tractions controls authority to cut power. so now its only got 5 percent ability to cut power, whats happens now is if your leave trc on the car wont downshift but will pull a little timing and reduce power slightly.
now im not saying trc is your issue, but the torque source will be the helpful items that finds you what is requesting less power from the motor - in turn causing downshifts.
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On 2/11/2022 at 9:30 AM, hjtrbo said:
Lol, 600 is pretty high. Each clutch has an adaption limit. Haven't found what they are yet. But the fact your is an even number strongly suggests 600 is it for the E clutch haha.
try here?
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11 hours ago, BeerTurbo said:
i have this one in the r31 zf and now its turbo it seems to slip to moon on the 3-4th shift.
*penrite in the slippy r31
*gw in the turboteritory seems to go just fine
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On 2/14/2022 at 1:25 PM, Puffwagon said:
This makes a box slip. I learnt the hard way when I used it.
Gulf western syn-ts is what I use and recommend.
i have this one in the r31 zf and now its turbo it seems to slip to moon on the 3-4th shift.
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did you get anywhere with thr 3-4 shift.
i have a bf zf here that 3-4 shift is horrendous.
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you can see in rpm its over 6k and you can see in torque source its engine speed limiting. That's normal.
just think of it this way, ba pcm is slower than bf/fg so the more things you data log the slower it is. So if you only data log the things you need you will get a faster sample rate on the data.
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PCM is tuned at 95 ron, so if your running 91 it will knock - that said lose items near to the engine will cause false knock
Put some 95 in it.
is your replacement pcm for an auto? is it going it to limp mode cause it thinks your going over the netural rev limit? just for fun make sure all your rev limiters are 6k and see what happens.
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3 hours ago, H3LPME said:
Hey guys.
have a ZF6 in a 4WD, what I’m trying to do is improve engine braking - mainly on slow, steep technical descents, but aswell as long windy mountain road descents too and also prevent up-shifting in Manual shift.
figuring the best what to do so is torque converter lockup, but what specific tables should I be looking at?
Thanks
open the transmission maps, go to shift map 27.
in the downshift area of the map change the last number to the same as the rest.
In my case i also let the car upshift itself, so i dont accidently tag limiter.
see below std vs what im talking about.
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On 2/11/2022 at 9:14 AM, Roland@pcmtec said:
If you are still running the IMRC you should remove it like on a turbo as that will cause you grief.
is this true for the fg plastic manifold too?
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Got any pics of how the m90 was mounted?
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On 3/1/2021 at 1:48 PM, Roland@pcmtec said:
Just had an idea. If you set up the permanent fuel cut on gear shift for the BF which is very rough at low revs/low throttle (eg you would never drive around town like this) as an extra tune you could enable this for the drag track etc as a separate tune you enable.
You could also enable/set up a flex tune and wire up the TPS or boost sensor to the rear o2 sensor and interpolate the torque reduction based on throttle/boost level to make it drivable.
A lot of stuffing around, but if you are DIY and bored it would work and probably quite well.
how do you propose the settings to do fuel cut on gearshift only @Roland@pcmtec ?
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the easiest way is to set your rev limit above your fuel cut limit.
auF0133 Fuel cut - swap value with auF0144
i saw a post somewhere that doing this is horrible for the harmonics.
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many moons ago Darkhorse tuned a car for me and left the tune unlocked so i could still play with it after, this was many years ago and im not sure if hes still comfortable doing this - but he is the first/only person I recommend you talk to in Perth. When i spoke to all the shops, he was the only one willing to let me keep the pcm unlocked.
you will need workshop edition or the onecar thing to do multitunes however.
if you know practically nothing i would recommend doing some courses first, HPA do youtube and a online courses and i may be mistaken but i thought roland had plans for a courses?
while your doing this you can do your mechanical stuff, put the second motor together or hoever your plans go.
Ba turbo ecu is fine, you might need to change it to the Bf ecu to use the 2nd o2 for the flex fuel sensor. i wouldn't bother upgrading based on PCM speed alone, as they all have same basic features just with better hardware along the variations.
with pcmtech you can edit the shift patterns so you can effectively lockout 4th gear yes.
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19 hours ago, jpm600 said:
Hi, this is the injector values in the capa tune for bosch green 42lb injectors.
They dont change any of the deadtime vs voltage on the capa tune and i wonder if that is the difference. Anyway, these value should get you close. If it's still lean under load, then how much boost? what fuel pump? what fuel pressure?
Hope it helps
The FG F6 uses 440cc injectors from memory. well i think at 4 bar they work out to be in the 500cc range, but here is the slopes for that.
they have verry similar low slopes so if your using this size injectors this is prob a god start point?
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45 minutes ago, KyleBruh said:
It’s hitting 12.1 at idle warm.
Look at your short n long term fuel.
From that rich at idle you would need to make low slope larger...or you have a leak.
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36 minutes ago, KyleBruh said:
so I've finally had time, to read over what you've said and finally get back to you haha
so technically the the low slope needs to be decreased and the high slope needs to be increased by what results I've gotten (too rich at idle, and lean under load).
What high/low do u have now? What injectors are you using?
Misfire under load (sometimes)
in Engine Tuning (AUS)
Posted
what's the torque source doing when it happens?