BeerTurbo
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Posts posted by BeerTurbo
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Just now, Andre34 said:
The only thing I’m stuck with now is to achieve flames after letting off the foot. I’m trying to make it similar to the one in this video. I’ve already tried spark retard at low load with 0.3 lambda as well as retarded decel spark but no luck. Anyone have any ideas?
I had issues to. I figgured it was issue with cutting away the fresh air?.
Is there a throttle body min clip vs rpm. To keep it cracked?
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37 minutes ago, Andre34 said:
I have min at -90
Your wild
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Just now, Andre34 said:
Sorry for the confusion guys. When I say limiter, I refer to the one created by spark cut (-70 deg timing). To answer the question about my engine limiter (the factory fuel cut limiter) I have it set to 9000 so it’s not doing anything.
Roland is right, I have normal timing at 4800rpm and then spark cut at 5000rpm so it bounces around instead of holding itself.
Also, to elaborate… my setup is normal timing up until 4800rpm and then -70 degrees on all loads at 5000rpm. I then have very rich fuel at over aprox 80% load on 4800rpm and higher (to achieve the bigger flames) I did a very slight change on the exhaust cam timing just to help the spark cut but I don’t think it’s really needed.(be careful if you’re doing this on a turbo. There’s a bit more to it in order to avoid overboosting)
Nooooo!! I finally got the spark cut working mint when I could’ve just waited for the PCMTEC release of it 😭. That’s awesome though, it’ll make life so much easier if I ever want to do spark cut on another car. It will be cool to compare the aggressiveness of the customOS vs DIY spark cuts
Do you have you spark min clip at -70 to0?
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Just now, MrForsty said:
He said he was at limiter in the video, What the limiter was set to is the question aha. Could be set to like 4k
I read it as he has a spark n fuel hole just before shift points.
I think the only limiter situation that would work here would be a sparkcut only.
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45 minutes ago, MrForsty said:
What RPM is your limiter set at?
I think hes not going to reach limiter at -70 spark.
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ive had this issue on the barra r31 and more recently my turbo terry. the barra r31 was more like your setup, speedo kicks off and tcm goes into limp mode. teritory on hard acceleration would just lose speeo and trans would work fine.
both were fixed with new plugs and genuine coils from ford.
new and faulty coils test same resistance so came to conclusion coils can be tested for this fault, just bin them and new ones.
I also tried to fix the r31 with a set of known good coils, but it did not resolve the issue. It wanted me to spend that money at ford.
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8 minutes ago, Andre34 said:
Hey, it’s definitely doable. I played around with the spark and fuel at the point I wanted limiter and this is what I ended up with so far. I didn’t need to do any changes to injectors. This was just open loop fueling and spark. Check out Roland’s post about 2step to get a starting point and go from there.
My next goal is to try and get a flame to linger after I release my foot from the pedal. I need to learn how to datalog properly to see though but I think the problem is something related to open/close loop fuel.
IMG_6416.MOV 64.74 MB · 0 downloads
What spark and lambada settings is that mad flame
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i tried for a small amount of times to make my drifty boi ute pop a flame on decel. i kinga gave up.
I also tried years later to make my Barra r31 do it, without success.
but then after adding ex gate and water meth, it would just throw a huge blue flame out of the gate.
so you gota be thinking there is a flame in the exhaust, but its prob near to the engine.
its hard to make it flame out the rear of all your mufflers and what not.
i kinda thought having a chamberd muffler at the rear, with a spark plug close to the end , running rich, would give you flame. you need a way to ignite the unburnet fuel closer to the area where your trying to see it.
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And just because the thread needs to be complete, not because i like talking to myself here is an update.
Swaped over sz alternator 2. Pins n alt looked great condition.
Car started and ran no issues.
Alt was set to 14.7. std alternator was only hitting around 14.25 ish at idle. This alternator we get around 14.55.
Anyway the main point. My caravan dcdc charger used to feed in around 16/17 amps hr with old alternator at idle, with new alternator it kicks in 29/30 amps hr.
I thought id run into trouble with needing to change charging duity cycle, but so far everything seems normal. And i dont think we have acess to alt dc in pcmtech? The guy who passed on info used haltech and said he needed minor alt dc adjustments.
Anyway. Good upgrade. Ive orderd another one for a different car.
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just as an update, I disconnected the coms wires and the alternator behaved exactly the same. (usually at 13.4ish but occasionally spike to 15s-bat light on dash)
so old 130a std alternator went back in.
when the wreckers 175 comes ill put it in to test.
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howdy.
i was trawling the internet the other day and a discussion on the proflow high amp alternators came up, one of the commenters said they prefer the oem sz 175a alternators.
after realizing i had one in the shed, i put it on my territory.
now it charges at 13.4 ish but gets unstable with rpm and i saw it hit 16 where the zf started to flash error. it lodged a p0622-60 charging system fault code, with the battery light on dash.
this alt was in my shed and the comm's contacts dident look great. i cleaned them up... but i guess the question is, should this work?
i pmd the commenter and he said hed fitted them to barras with haltechs without issue, just changed the charging strategy.
i actually ordered another one thinking i could put it on the other car, but it wont be here for a week.
ta
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Just now, Puffwagon said:
Nice one, shouldn't be too hard to work out which one did the trick.
ive actually done all of the avove minus the engine size to the teritory. trc likes to think it needs to kick in sometimes , but it cant take away power but the zf will upshift. ill try adding the engine size into it, the awd dosent need trc (at my power level)
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@Bill @Puffwagon cheers. tonights run had no trc issues.
this is a ba turbo pcm, but for reference i changed (all of this at once so not sure what really was the fix)
auF2495 - TQ Reduction 2:Traction Control - "0"
auF0410 - ETC Traction Control -"disable etc trc"
auF0265 - traction control - "6666"
auF0264 -traction control "6666"
auF0262 - traction control - 1
auF0261 - traction control - 0
auF1716 - engine size - "80"
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cheers lads.
I disabled it via the TQ requesters, but haven't had time to test. will try the engine capacity to.
i believe this was what your referring too?
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Hi Team,
have a friend with a ba turbo setup, a conversion but has most everything from the turbo car. when driving the car it will get to around 3k and hit "traction control" tq limiting and do cylinder cuts.
is there a reason for this?
besides reducing the tq retard ability, is there a correct way to disable trc altogether?
auF0410 - ETC Traction Control - is allready set to disable etc trc.
cheers
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We cant datalog unlicensed cars can we?
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On 5/16/2023 at 4:31 AM, Bill said:
Was this an issue when it was all in the donor car? Do you have the original unedited PCM/TCM file saved? Flash back to stock & work out the 2 fault codes provided before worrying about axle ratio or anything else.
On a side note, changes in the VID calibration overrides don't make any difference whilst VID is still set to enabled.^
i think i had 3 diff ratio bits changed in my file. but there one in vid, one in the normal area and one in the zf bit. maybe more. -
i think I've posted on here before about this. but ill sumarise.
My r31 skyline with bf motor/zf swap i had the...
TCM: P1910-FF (Reverse Lamp Control Circuit Open)
being lazy i didn't wire the zf wiring in, as it needs to see both sides of the relay.
i just put a resistor inline and it shut that up.
so you could have an issue with your relay if your lights dont work?
now the PCM error.
you need to data log something from the transmission directly. make sure your can bus isent broken.
from memory there is one wire from the tcm to pcm for N cutout on start. the rest is done via the canbus.
if its sweet and im throwing guesses in the air, its your diff ratio change - you havent done it right, cause the abs will be reporting a wheel speed your gearbox dosent agree with.
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i actually asked turbosmart if they could read the falcon canbus for the rpm for there boost controllers & read the can bus for tq reductions to fire there electronic bovs but they said it wasn't worthwhile. that's was easily 2 years ago now.
are you able to look into getting a controller to read the canbus instead of reading the sensors directly ? cause thats is a dickload of wiring.
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Yep
2 hours ago, yoda598 said:Was just reading this back. This is a btr vehicle yeah?
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I set the na+t and my teritory converter maps to match the performance mode.
I figured on the na+t if its locked more it would create less heat? plus with 3.9 gears it dosent need help with tourque.
The territory used to rev hunt on the freeway and i thought the gearbox was dying. but if the converters locked it stays solid. I think maybe the converter needs replacing. so instead of replacing ti i leave it locked.
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4 hours ago, yoda598 said:
Is it the pedal vs gear multiplier? (I don't remember actual name unfortunately)
auF0067 ?
i have never touched it. looking at it now, nor do i understand it hahaha
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i would follow the guide posted for the ba-baf6 twin cam . this would be what your trying to acive, basically changing the strategy
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On 2/3/2019 at 3:35 PM, Roland@pcmtec said:
They do a misfire test and will log a Dtc if it occurs. This will only pick up a severe consistent miss on the same cylinder though. We might be able to log the actual values used though.
Are you trying to diagnose a specific problem?
Does the pcm do anything during a misfire under load?
Or is it just guess the mechanical problem game
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Make NA shoot massive flames
in Engine Tuning (AUS)
Posted
that reminds me. i did set a mates coon up on a spark cut limiter.
makes this funny noise on limiter and does little flames when hot.
pretty sure from memory, the lambada was around 0.82 on limiter. throttle ability disabled. full authority to pull spark. limiter like 5800 fuel cut limiter 6200. spark tq retard after 50 percent was wild enough to hit min clip... but i never changed min clip cause im not wild like mr -70.