BeerTurbo
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Posts posted by BeerTurbo
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1 hour ago, Puffwagon said:
Edit: Ford wouldn't have changed it for no reason lol
Agreed.
Was on r31 wen was na, then turbo. So both
But ive used em on my ba na shitcar n a mates barra au ute.
Just tell yourself its lower iat and 10 hp.
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16 minutes ago, Puffwagon said:
Quoted for visibility. Was it worth swapping?
I do the swap for the better placement of throttle body. I hate the engine crossover.
I cant speak for power upgrades as i dont have a dyno.
I figure both tb are same size so no need to change, but fg is more slimline so it might suit more people applications.
In my head i figgure the plastic intake is cooler and less prone to engine bay heat soak to.
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12 minutes ago, Puffwagon said:
Maybe it's load dependant. More load = more reduction
Try it in second gear so it can build more boost before it pushes through the brake. Also get under there and adjust ya handbrake 😜
i actually put it on the list for tomorrow. so now its adjust handbrake and drink beer. big list.
i also just reading the old bf launch control thread and realized i never touched auF2233 , so ill try that tomorrow too.
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On 12/17/2020 at 9:01 AM, BeerTurbo said:
allright, finally data lodged. on the brake stalling up, torque source will quickly change from driver demand to trans tourque trunk.
now changing spark to 0 and other requests to 1 as well as disabling the ETC...car will stall-up, but starts pushing through the brake as soon as it starts building boost 1-2psi. with log we can see its requesting torque cut but nothing is occuring.
this is for a turbo territory, auf1338 tq reduction set to stock of 1 (other cuts only)...no good. changed to 3 so it will use spark cut then other cuts.
same situation, on the brake stalling up...as tq reduction cuts in pretty quickly. at .8 tourque spark was around 10, at .46 it was -6. you see spark retards down to a max of around -6.7 deg and i can get higher in the rev range and build much more boost (saw around 7psi)
in the future ill play with auF0263 (spark retard for tq request) and see if we can get it to clip to the max of -15 deg and add more fuel in the hole.
i know you can do this in the cruise control activated stuff, but for now im having fun playing without that. cheers.
so its been a while. i was playing with this again today and i have a question. i have my min spark set to -20 and in my spark retards for testing it was set to pull 80 at any amount of tq reduction request. on the brake, get tq reduction request, but it only ever goes to around -12 . i figured with such drastic spark retard table it should instantly hit spark min clip. any thoughts?
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6 hours ago, Roland@pcmtec said:
auF12805 is what you would want to change. You could datalog the PIP counter and throttle change to see what the limit should be for your throttle map.
is that for workshop users only?
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2 hours ago, hjtrbo said:
PowerFC, that's a blast from the past! I've got a never fired built RB25DET stowed away for a rainy day. You still got the SR? They're a great motor, very fun in a light car.
Is there much that can be seen by pulling the cover off the PCM? I'm imagining it's completely full of potting compound.
Before I send it to Brett at Custom Machine Works, I'm going to give the Forscan recovery mode a crack (assuming Ford PCM's are supported?). I might get lucky and the boot loader still exists and responds to comms over can for a brief moment after power is applied. 🤷♂️
Oh god no. Its been vq30det then rb25 now nothing in the bay. Ill probably throw a barra in next, since every other car i have is barra powered now.
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i would personally change to a turbo fuel pressure regulator and get a e85 fuel pump. if your doing it on the cheap.
ive used the sniper upgraded fuel pot in nearly all my cars now, guy sells them on ebay they are 1l instead of 500ml. he has a 300ish lph e85 pump. Most of the true e85 fuel pumps are quite large and you really dont need that big of a fuel system.
now ive had to replace all the fuel lines on my ba ute thats e85 only as it ate the stock lines and left black dissolved crap in the injectors and in the fuel cell. if your staying e85 re do all the stock soft lines, in tank and quick connect ones too. otherwise be sure to run it on normal fuel for a bit to wash it out before parking the car up.
i dont have flex on my terry but when i put e85 in it for drags, i just set that stoich setting to 9.7 and the fueling is in the ballpark. we dont really have cold starts but you can play with the startup timing on e85 makes my ute start a hella lot better anyway.
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i bricked my territory once when i turned it off mid write.
I was lucky and was able to set the write mode to recovery and then re write it all back and fixed it up.
without any can you might be in trouble.
back in he day i bricked a powerfc for the sr20 twice, one was me doing some bad wiring and the other was an engine bay fire. anyway there was a guy that i think posts on the nistune forums, had a business checking ecus and he ficed it both times. it might actually have been mat from nistune.
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i believe he posted about it here
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i think i had a thread like this a while ago.
anyway, bin all the fg compare stuff you have done and put it all back to stock. i allways got ETC faults when trying to use the fg drive by wire settings.
i dont have the file on this computer but i think the only thing i kept was the FG throttle angle to predicted load table and the car would idle and run fine with all the fg intake/throttlebody.
if you cant work it out, pm me and ill dif up the file i used.
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have you had the injectors flow tested recently? perhaps one is leaking
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On 1/19/2022 at 11:57 AM, SKD said:
has anyone had much luck in tuning the throttle to make it super responsive? have played around with auF0083 to improve the response which seemed to work but ran into the issue of as soon as i started driving it would cut out, throw the etc light and limit the rpm and start running rough when idling. Is there another parameter that would conflict the change and cause things to wig out? car is also a manual if it helps
I've never had much luck changing the throttle angle and throttle position without eventually getting a throttle error. I just leave them alone now.
Ill have a play with auF1588 and auF0067 thanks Rolland
auF1588 normal tunes vs a F6 tune, verry different.
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8 minutes ago, Roland@pcmtec said:
If you've got a big dump pipe make sure the O2 is not located too far away from the turbo. Otherwise you'll need the play with the transport delay.
The wiggling is expected and normal. It should constantly oscillate rich lean at a fixed frequency. This is to ensure the catalytic converter works correctly and passes emissions.
Yeah normal widfling with new one.
Old one would just sit at one spot for 10 seconds sometimes a minute
Ill look at delay it is a 4incher dump probably a tad further away than a stock location. Its xforce dump.
Ive not played with that before. Is it expected to increase or decrease time?
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11 hours ago, Roland@pcmtec said:
Have you loaded the default layout file? They are in there
Cheers roland. Turns out i was just to tired to use a computer. It was already in my active logging parameters.
For fun follow up a new o2 did fix my issue. The 02 trace now just wiggles around the curve constantly.
Previous o2 would either be 0.8 or 0.3 from memory. Reason i pulled it up was a couple times on cruse control with the van it started running so lean it would misfire for a second, of cause it would stop pretty quickly and i was left scratching my head, thinking the fuel filter was clogged from the nullabor fuel stations.
I noticed in city hot idle on my afr gaige it would just start working its way lean and around 1.1 to 1.12 lambada it would misfire at idle.
So then dataloged n noticed the o2 doing strange things and the fuel trims working overtime
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howdy
trying to diagnose issue with my fuel consumption. and some other gremlins.
when datalogging i cant find a short term fuel trim, i recall using this in the past on forscan, is it redundant or called something else in the logger?
when data login the long term fuel trim, say its at 0.9. is that adding 10 percent fuel overall for the closed loop fueling tables?
i tonight replaced my 02 sensor as when watching the live data from the old o2 sensor it seemed to just peg 0.3v for a bi then peg 0.7v for a bit then swap around.
i havent actually lodged the new sensor. but ill see how the car drives tomorrow.
cheers
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6 hours ago, Puffwagon said:
Easy way is to leave it stock with the knock sensors switched on, this handles running 91.
If you want to dial it in further you could properly tune it for 95 using knock ears etc. The issue here is the fuel on the way to WA isn't the fuel you're tuning with, so imo is a lot of effort for little return.
If you want to tune it, do a test run with the van with 95 at your various cruise speeds and see how much timing it can handle there, this will give you your best economy and heat management. The knock sensors can take care of the rest.
is the spark map set for 98 roughly, n use knock counts to back down to 95/91?
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2 hours ago, brettus said:
Take a few bottles of octane booster as well for insurance. I used to dump a bottle of Nulon in the turbo and my supercharged xr8 (both BA's) when the trips from Brisbane to Townsville or return had no 98oct at a certain place. The turbo was obviously more knock prone but those were the piggyback and then early sct days!
I prefer boost over timing though...will be driving from perth to mackay, then back so will definatly be places without 98.
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Howdy
going to be taking the terry across the ol nalabour, ive allways run 98 in it but im thinking i might be reverting it to stock timing and boost and running some garbage juice 95 along the trip.
is reverting it back to stock enough, or should i pull a couple of degrees across the map also.
I will be towing the van so it will be in boost, but ive already knocked the boost back to gate pressure, 7psi.
love to hear your input on the matter.
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3 hours ago, Puffwagon said:
When I was pushing over 600awkw through a stock trans, toward the end of it's life it would slip whilst in gear, tc would flash and it would upshift, despite being in manual mode.
so maybe I'm not going crazy.
mines prob only at the 350 hp range tho so fairly modest. but defiantly in the wet foot down I've noticed the trc light go crazy and it upshifts. in the dry ive noticed it on the odd ocaion to and its hard to narrow down why. even in the wet its verry unlikely it loses traction, I've only broke traction launching on a corner...never in a straight line (in the wet)
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1 hour ago, Bill said:
Did you make all the other changes you listed in your previous post or just auF1716?
Do you remember what the codes were?
engine size and boost control chabges were loaded.
i removed eng size setting n zf went back to happy.
dident read codes was in a rush .
terry allready has the other trc settings set. so trc cant command power reduction. but the light comes on dash and i swear sometimes it makes zf upshift early. but that could all be in my head.
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auF1716 - engine size - "80"
i did this on my turbo terry and the zf went into limp mode.
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hi mate this isnt really haltech support forum, you should try them.
but:
Mgate is your shifter
K line is the diagnostics wire that goes to your obd2 plug.
if your zf was in limp mode it would be stuck in 3rd or 4th i cant recall.. you wouldet be able to select a gear.. you have a different issue.
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17 minutes ago, Andre34 said:
While playing with throttle position, I tried 0.85 instead of 0.65 fuel at limiter and found the bangs were much louder. Flames were still big, about 3cm smaller than rich so I might run that leaner fuel now.
Getting ready to win the next rev battle my track does. It would be so funny to see an na territory beat the 2js and the rbs 😂
back when i first started playing pcmtech i was trying to get a fg style zf gearshift in my teritory. now you can make it cylinder cut but it just dosent have the refinement of the fg so its not smooth.
anyway, i had the fuel on shift setting at like 0.7 forever and never heard a peep from it. one day i changed it to around 0.88 from memory and it did the gunshots pop on gearchange. so my theroy is the exhaust still needs decent fuel and air, if its got to much of one it wont combust - just like the engine
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18 minutes ago, Andre34 said:
I tried both but it didn’t do it for me. I tried min angle at 10 and 20 but no luck. It made sense though but maybe I need to play with it more
when you get it to work id say u want to see the throttle position at idle, then set a number just below that. if it actually does hit a min clip that's enough to free-rev the engine it might not actually decelerate.
How is boost being commanded?
in Engine Tuning (AUS)
Posted
AUF16463 - for fun you can use basic math to try get it in the ballpark, but there are a lot of mechanical factors at play... so say you have a 7 psi spring and you want 10psi, 10/7=1.42...so in theroy you need about 0.42 of boost control to get your desired boost. now remember what i just said, theres a ton of mecanical factors at play and you see the table goes through ll the temp , as that plays a big afect to. leave closed loop boost control on, data log and see how close the boost error and wg duity are.
target boost table can be whatever you want. 13.8 is measured in inhg, so its commanding 6.7psi. personally i like to slow ramp the boost in around 2000 rpm range and ramp into boost around 3k. it would be advisable when playing to play in the higer areas anyway you dont want an overboost to runaway on you. you will notice there is a temp value here to, so i like to target gate pressure when the air is hot, like over 75 degrees or so.
leave every thing else standard while your playing and have done a few data logs to understand how its all plays out.
actually thats wrong, change your under boost duity cycle from 1 to whatever your higest value in your closed loop table is. for me with a 10 psi spring, if it goes overboot and hits one it could try smash 20 psi in? if you follow.