Roland@pcmtec

So the car cranks but won't fire?

That may screw with your fuel economy doing it at 0.2 load. Datalog at cruise to make sure. Also post a video! Thanks for sharing

Is your battery flat? Needs to be above 12v for the vehicle immobiliser to work.

If it cranks the flash succeded. It won't crank unless the calibration is running. A normal flash will achieve the same as a recovery flash. Recovery just let's you flash when it won't detect.

It ignores all errors. When a flash has failed the detect method will read all nulls and fail to determine what the vehicle is. The PCM will also be stuck in the bootloader so all normal read PID commands will also fail. By selecting recovery mode and selecting the pcm type manually it will ignore all errors and force the tec file in. Even if you select the wrong flash type it will let you continue so it is not recommended unless you have a failed flash write or have flashed an incompatible os.

So to summarise. Set CFC delay to at least 5 seconds. 98 octane use a timing value of ~10-14 E85 you can go much lower. Those of you running much lower timing are you all on e85?

What have you changed to try and improve the shift speed?

What about the torque tables in the PCM ?

Have your torque tables been modified? We've had instances where the car is better with the stock torque tables.

All I did was set the DFCO timer to 10 seconds and it doesn't do a fuel cut unless you are in deaccel conditions for greater than 10s. FG might be different though as this was in a bf.

Run more timing then. I found 10 to 12 degrees best on 98 octane

So both mufflers are stock? That would explain why it is quiet.

What exhaust do you have?

How did you disable DFCO ? What exhaust do you have as well?

That will be a legitimate one. The fakes are generally sold on ebay for $30-40 with users that sell lots of other counterfeit electronics. Every single one we have heard of has failed so far.

Send the serial to Tactrix themselves (ask for Mike), they should be able to tell you. Basically if it cost less than $200 it is almost certainly a fake.

Yes that part we are probably going to put on a seperate tab with a gear/tyre size calculator as well. edit: It will suck the values out of your tune if it is open as well.

First iteration that we will be finishing and implementing (still in development)

If you perfect it and want to sell parameter files to others we are happy for you to do so on the forums. Same goes for ghost cam and injector data, there is a real demand for this so if we find people are interested in making and selling them we could set up a market place for this kind of thing.

Our boost by gear works completely differently to how the sprint works. We would not recommend trying to edit tables with HPTuners after writing our custom operating system, we have no control over how they modify the calibration which could cause issues with the vehicle depending on what they do. Our Custom OS includes extra checksums which they will not be reading or updating, along with lots of extra code and tables which they also will not know how to modify correctly. What is reason you need to use HPTuners at all?

Just use recovery mode (checkbox) and write back the original file. The PCMs are impossible to brick from our testing.

You have to be logged in to do anything.

Someone who does Audi and golf tunes told me they do waves. Eg - 10 one cell 15 another cell - 10 again etc and that makes it sound better.

I'm running about 6 degrees, -10 must be pretty loud! I found 0 degrees deafening, sounded like it would destroy your muffler baffles pretty quickly. You must get some pretty funny looks when you drive around?

Issue is mainly time, if you have time to tweak and build your own setup the can turn out brilliantly. Pete L at Nistune built his own using refurbished noise cancelling comtag military headphones, was like your head was inside of the engine! Could hear knock amazingly well.