Roland@pcmtec

This discussion is relevant and worth reading.

As there were ~20,000 of them it was not possible to do by hand. So we have someone working on automating improving and fixing the descriptions and spelling errors. The bulk of it is done, now we need to review the automation and merge it into the software.

Yes you can just follow the guide step by step for a BF. You'll need to wire an aftermarket speed sensor in if you are using a manual.

As they don't own a workshop we haven't advertised them online but I can ask them if you personally want?

Heinrich, Northtronics Dyno Power and there are two part time tuners who rent dynos up north.

We've converted a large number of the big shops Australia wide now. The goal is to perfect the stuff we've already delivered or promised first. So for the rest of the year we will be putting all our energy into the Custom OS and Datalogging.

Anything is possible if there is a business case for developing it.

We will help with any pcmtec software issues but not with conversion specific issues. Eg we have had a lot of cases of wiring issues, incompatible abs modules, people wanting help with how to relink modules and recode keys using other software. We regularly have people swap multiple PCMs and want us to refund credits as they end up licensing the car 4x. Conversions are very difficult due to the fact you will need at least 2 other software packages to do the module relinking and key recoding. You'll also need experience knowing which abs modules match which pcm calibration and which tcm calibration matches which pcm calibration. You also run into wiring loom and speed sensor input issues. All of the above is beyond the scope of our support. If you do want support doing the above we have people who would be willing to give it to you for a fee. You could possibly even approach them to train you, eg hire them to fly down for a week (depending where you are).

We have 3 writeups depending on what you want to know about. Pinout is in the dual map discussion thread. Voltage is 0-1.66v however some late model FGs accept up to 3.8v You can use a voltage divider (two resistors) to step the voltage down from 5v to 1.66v

If you use the custom os or tuner lock it wont work (as in hptuners will give you a checksum error). If you use a normal osid then I see no reason why hptuners or the ngauge wouldnt work. Hptuners do their licensing off vin/serial/osid which is similar to us, they don't actually modify anything so both their product and our should work side by side.

I snapped one due to bad axle tramp. If you have axle tramp sorted you should be ok. But if you run sticky tyres you'll need a new tailshaft, diff bushes and probably axles as well.

Honestly any rpm will probably fry the tyres. I found you either got wheels pin or if you leave traction control enabled its not too bad. Will snap Axles as well.

I agree that this is annoying. I will look into fixing it so the scroll speed is the same at all times.

Great work Sam and thanks for sharing what you found. Nothing beats good old experimentation.

You need workshop for those, but they aren't critical. You can still enable launch control, you just can't adjust the spark retard ratio.

Giving out figures is a good way to blow up boxes. You need to take into account clutch pack wear and how the adaptive learning has learnt to change the shift pressure. People spent thousands of dollars and many years experimenting with these boxes, there is not a simple one fit all solution. Try comparing the f6 or v8 sprint stuff to a bog stock NA for some ideas.

Here is the 1st to 2nd and 2nd to first shifts pressures explained. From here you should be able to work out the rest of the gears. To speed up the shift time you increase the shift pressure. You would normally only change the disengage (also know as off going) pressure if a gearbox has been build poorly and has trouble disengaging the gears. This guide is a draft, please do not take it as a gospel. UPSHIFT ZF00567 Shift pressure 12 Pressure applied to 1st gear clutch to disengage 1st gear on upshift ZF00603 Shift pressure tables 12 Pressure applied to 2nd gear clutch to engage 2nd gear on upshift ZF00623 Shift pressure tables 12 "Pressure applied to 2nd gear clutch to engage 2nd gear on upshift in performance mode Shift Pressure offset 12 ZF01446 This is an offset to the pressure based on temperature. Eg if you want to firm up shifts at certain temperatures you would increase this pressure. DOWNSHIFT ZF00605 Shift pressure tables 21 "Pressure applied to 1st gear clutch to engage 1st gear on downshift" ZF00569 Shift pressure off-going clutch 21 "Pressure applied to 2nd gear clutch to disengage 2nd gear on downshift" ZF00633 Shift Pressure 21 Pressure applied to 2nd gear clutch to disengage 2nd gear on downshift in performance mode Here is a tree diagram (we are looking to add this into the editor to simplify things) which may help explain which tables do what Line Pressure ZF00739 Line Pressure 1st gear This is the pressure applied once in gear to keep it in gear. If the gearbox is flaring or slipping (you can log the transmission slip %) then you would increase this pressure. Note that you can very quickly destroy a gearbox by changing these pressures too high or too low. Be careful. edit: Where you see "reduced downshift" or "reduced upshift" this is apparently performance mode shifting (I do not have a ZF to confirm this on). Looking at the increased shift pressures in these maps this makes sense. Update: This is as good a place as any. To increase the ZF rev limit changed the two following scalars ZF02463: Engine Speed threshold for NMOT monitoring ZF04094: Upper turbine speed threshold

So wire in a voltage adder? I guess you could do split range e85 blend ramps then. Eg 0 to 0.7v is 0 to e85 low boost then 0.7v to 1.6v is 0 to e85 with high boost. The issue will be the switch over point if you are at dead on 0% ethanol on high boost it could toggle to the e85 low boost map. I think you could hack it together so it works though. Might be a bit of work to calibrate it but should be doable.

BeerTurbo there are 3 blend ramps. One for fuel, one for spark and one for boost. These are 10 point lookups so they can do anything you want really, it can be linear, a curve or a complete step change (eg you've wired in a switch). It is simply an analog input so you can wire in a potentiometer to have variable boost or any combination you want.

Update. We don't officially support engine/trans swaps due to the large amount of support time they consume. We recommend talking to one of the many conversions shops to do this work for you, as we have seen countless cases of people buying 4 or 5 PCMs and randomly swapping modules generally making a mess of the vehicle (and spending a lot of cash in the process) only to go see one of these guys in the end. You will save yourself a lot of time and money to go see them from the start. They will ensure you buy the correct loom, PCM and various modules and then provide a tune that will run the vehicle without any of the hundreds of possible limp modes kicking in. Brett Hogno at Custom Machine Works in QLD (PCM mail service for engine swaps) https://www.facebook.com/Custom-Machine-Works-856789001022313/ Killa Kustom Kables & Conversions in QLD (Looms for conversion) https://www.facebook.com/Killa-Kustom-Kables-Conversions-202181769825285/ Whiteford (VIC only) He can reprogram TCMs (BF -> FG and vice versa) https://www.facebook.com/WhitefordTech Matt at BPR can also do conversions, general tuning etc. He can reprogram TCMs as well (BF -> FG and vice versa) http://www.bulletperformanceracing.com.au/

If we get enough demand we will do a CAN based IO extender for the PCM. You could do a lot with this. Right now we've picked off all the low hanging fruit so we will see how many people start asking for other features. Right now focus is on getting the custom OS stuff into the editor and getting the datalogger released.

Well that's good. At least you know the cause now. I would do a compare to the vehicle you took the throttle body from and work through the differences copying anything throttle airflow model related. Be careful though, if you get this wrong the throttle may operate dangerously. We recommend not touching the ETC stuff unless your vehicle is strapped to a dyno, that way any uncontrolled acceleration won't be dangerous. For example if you modify the cruise control torque control you can have the car go WOT via cruise control on you. It is very important to do this stuff in a safe environment.

Eg it sounds like an underlying issue with injector data made worse by this change.

You can modify the tip in pump shot multiplier auF0205 however it should never go so lean it misfires. Did this happen before you changed the manifold? You can also try changing the manifold volume auF0204 After changing the throttle body did you copy all the throttle maps over from the V8 as well? EDIT: You must also set the tip-in and tip-out gains to a non zero value. Eg setting auF1156 to 0.05 would result in the following extra fuel at a coolant temp of 156°F. 0.05 * 0.986 = 0.0493 4.93% extra fuel will be injected. A tip in/tip out event is defined when there is a change in airmass > 0.00002lb per event. An event is considered a PIP eg a cylinder cylinder fill event.

If you wish to trim individual cylinders due to one cylinder running hotter than the other there are two global fuel and spark modifiers you can change. auF12418 "Calibration adders to spark angle for development and testing purposes" This value will be added to the final spark value per cylinder. Eg to remove 1 degree of timing from cylinder 6 you would change this table to the following: auF10362 "Fuel modifier per cylinder" This is a simple multiplier for the commanded fuel mass. Eg to run one cylinder 5% leaner you would modify the table by the following amount.