Roland@pcmtec

All I did was set the DFCO timer to 10 seconds and it doesn't do a fuel cut unless you are in deaccel conditions for greater than 10s. FG might be different though as this was in a bf.

Run more timing then. I found 10 to 12 degrees best on 98 octane

So both mufflers are stock? That would explain why it is quiet.

What exhaust do you have?

How did you disable DFCO ? What exhaust do you have as well?

That will be a legitimate one. The fakes are generally sold on ebay for $30-40 with users that sell lots of other counterfeit electronics. Every single one we have heard of has failed so far.

Send the serial to Tactrix themselves (ask for Mike), they should be able to tell you. Basically if it cost less than $200 it is almost certainly a fake.

Yes that part we are probably going to put on a seperate tab with a gear/tyre size calculator as well. edit: It will suck the values out of your tune if it is open as well.

First iteration that we will be finishing and implementing (still in development)

If you perfect it and want to sell parameter files to others we are happy for you to do so on the forums. Same goes for ghost cam and injector data, there is a real demand for this so if we find people are interested in making and selling them we could set up a market place for this kind of thing.

Our boost by gear works completely differently to how the sprint works. We would not recommend trying to edit tables with HPTuners after writing our custom operating system, we have no control over how they modify the calibration which could cause issues with the vehicle depending on what they do. Our Custom OS includes extra checksums which they will not be reading or updating, along with lots of extra code and tables which they also will not know how to modify correctly. What is reason you need to use HPTuners at all?

Just use recovery mode (checkbox) and write back the original file. The PCMs are impossible to brick from our testing.

You have to be logged in to do anything.

Someone who does Audi and golf tunes told me they do waves. Eg - 10 one cell 15 another cell - 10 again etc and that makes it sound better.

I'm running about 6 degrees, -10 must be pretty loud! I found 0 degrees deafening, sounded like it would destroy your muffler baffles pretty quickly. You must get some pretty funny looks when you drive around?

Issue is mainly time, if you have time to tweak and build your own setup the can turn out brilliantly. Pete L at Nistune built his own using refurbished noise cancelling comtag military headphones, was like your head was inside of the engine! Could hear knock amazingly well.

A few people have asked what to use for knock detection. Whilst the factory system works ok for a factory car on factory boost levels, it will often miss real knock and it will also detect false knock. Some recommendations below Plex https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor/ Knock Box http://theknockbox.com.au/ Link G4 Knock block http://dealers.linkecu.com/G4PlusKnockBlock If you are poor and handy electrically you can always do the old school method of a microphone wrapped in foam inside a metal tube screwed onto something on the block, then hook this up to an amplifier (low pass filter recommended) and noise cancelling head phones.

It is dependent on too many things. Start small and experiment.

Sounds like it is misfiring. How much overlap is that?

Definitely recommend setting the idle rpm higher and also more airflow at idle. If you raise the airflow to get the idle timing lower (eg 5 degrees ish) then you have more timing reserve to catch the fall. If you are already idling at 20 degrees the PCM can't respond quick enough to catch it. Timing cause the idle to jump almost immediately, more idle air has a small lag delay and can oscillate. I also recommend leaving the oil temp table fairly standard, that way when the car is cold it won't have the lumpy idle.

DFCO enabled means no fuel so it will be the maximum engine braking possible. When DFCO has not kicked in less timing will cause more engine braking as less timing means less torque. You can also try playing with cam timing (more vacuum means more friction) and reducing dashpot airflow will also increase vacuum. Experiment and see.

The only thing that affects the fueling at steady state when warm is offset, low slope and high slope. There are no other settings you are missing except for digital pump shot, however this is only for transient conditions. Assuming you spend 8 hours on this and you value your time at more than $0 an hour, it would be cheaper to buy and install new injectors than to spend time trying to dial the dekka 60s in. edit: The only other thing that could cause you issues is a mechanical problem, eg you have a big fuel pump with a restrictive return/regulator, if your base fuel pressure is fluctuating it will be impossible to dial the injectors in correctly.

Short answer is yes you should be able to configure all of those items. Long answer is there are lots of different parameters to change. I would start by comparing a late model Turbo BA to a stock auto NA BA and see what Ford did from the factory. Then start by changing one thing at a time, make notes of what you changed and what the results were and keep iterating until you get the result you want. Make sure you only change one thing at a time, otherwise you can go in circles. Check the common strategy thread for a list of strategies you can try.

Have you tried using the manual launch control? That should do what you are asking.

What have you tried changing so far and what are your results?