Puffwagon
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Posts posted by Puffwagon
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2 hours ago, Roland@pcmtec said:
Question. How are you confident your wideband is telling you the truth? Do you get it professionally calibrated?
I'm sure my personal one is good enough to signal a leanout. I use the dyno for tuning 99% of the time nowadays and 6 new ngk sensors turned up last week for the dyno, so at least one of them should be ok 😉
I'm all for logging everything when it's called for, but in the case of someone doing the most basic road tuning ie: sub 250rwkw per this thread, logging fuel pressure is a waste of money imo. If we move the goal posts to shop tuning then it starts a new conversation that is better suited for another thread 😁
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58 minutes ago, Roland@pcmtec said:
I'm out shopping but will reply later 😁
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1 minute ago, Roland@pcmtec said:
I've heard first hand of 10s of them not lasting a week.
Yeah mate it all comes down to how they are treated. I've put over 900awhp and 1500awnm though my stock turbo zf before it slipped but I also treat it as well as it can be. Currently no in gear slippage at 800awhp 😉 In saying that you can't shift it at that power level and obviously will have a much shorter lifespan than usual.
2 minutes ago, Roland@pcmtec said:it is critical to check fuel pressure on all cars you tune
Strong disagree. You don't need to log fuel pressure on most lightly modded cars. It'll show up on the wideband if you know what you are looking for.
2 minutes ago, Roland@pcmtec said:Everyone will tell you about their magical unicorn motor/box that lasts forever. But they won't be bragging about how they blew up 4 na+T motors in a month before taking it to a tuner (yes I've seen this).
Yerp. No one wants to share their failures and making power once on a dyno doesn't prove how stout a motor is. Blowing up 4 motors in a month just points to someone not knowing what they are doing. That's not necessarily a limitation of the hardware as they can be tuned to not blow up.
20 minutes ago, dat111 said:this is why i have taken such a long time to prepare an research everything i have 90% of the hardware to do the conversion. id rather over prepare then under prepare.
The box will be ok but if you aren't sympathetic to the parts they do wear out quicker.
It's easy to get it tuned, but not so easy to learn how to tune. If you're going to do it yourself then get the wideband, knock detection system and whatever else you want and get into it.
Make sure you look and understand what each change will accomplish before you make the change. You make a big boost or timing change change and hope for the best, you will end up in trouble.
Don't expect it to be easy but if you tread carefully you should be ok. Hell you might blow it up in the first 5 minutes too 🤷♂️
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3 hours ago, dat111 said:
instead of having it blow up on a dyno.. why dont i road tune it myself
It wont blow up on the dyno as the operator can keep an eye on things. Even an experienced tuner can't watch everything on the road. A beginner will be flying blind unless they start with an already safely tuned car and start logging it.
3 hours ago, dat111 said:id rather blow it up knowing what i did
You won't know what you did but I'll tell you now to save you the effort. It'll have too much timing and will break a ring land and/or snap a rod cos there will be too much boost.
31 minutes ago, Roland@pcmtec said:The na box will also blow up with any decent torque behind it.
Yeah nah that wont happen. I've seen first hand a na box take over 400rwkw and obviously all the torque that goes with that, for 18 months before it started slipping.
25 minutes ago, dat111 said:so basically run the stock tune an then build off that?
Do that. You'll want to remove about 4 degrees of timing everywhere to start with and when you're logging you'll want to start with a total of 5 degrees at WOT. This should be a safe starting point but you'll need the knock ears to confirm it.
35 minutes ago, Roland@pcmtec said:purchasing knock ears, a wideband and some method to log fuel pressure?
Do that but don't worry about the fuel pressure logging at this stage. A walbro 255 will take car of everything you need for now.
3 hours ago, dat111 said:plus learning it very fun!
It might seem like fun now but you're going to have to put literally hundreds of hours into learning how to tune before you get to a reasonable level. You'll be there sitting on the side of the road, sweating your arse out making tuning changes and all the while hoping that you haven't pushed it too far for it to shit the bed on the next logging attempt.
2 minutes ago, dat111 said:or could you recommended a tuner who you know who has done this before?
He sure can and you'll save yourself so much work and money you'll be miles ahead. Logging hardware aint cheap you know!
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I've tried to have a look but pcmtec has just ctd several times in a row.
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It would be handy to rename items as the afr/dlp8 input is listed as volts for now.
I knew that the drivers are bundled with PCMTec and also in windows, however I was having the fail to connect issue and I resolved it with a driver reinstall.
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It's all online.
Scroll to the bottom for the drivers https://www.dlpdesign.com/
Here's the instructions for the techedge http://wbo2.com/2j/default.htm
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4 hours ago, yoda598 said:
Mine isn't happy.
You might have to reinstall the drivers for the dlp8 cos mine wouldn't connect until I did that, even though it had been working previously.
Also I'm pretty sure you have to run a wire from the wb- to the wb gnd. At least that is how mine is set up, although it's been freaking ages since I read the techedge instructions.
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Yep. I literally just did that and nothing is happening.
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Alrighty I tried that and after a few clicks of start and pause and then pressing F2, the log disappeared and then nothing would happen.
I reloaded a log and F2 is doing nothing again. I know I have my moments but surely I can't be so daft as to not be able to follow simple instructions?!
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Ah ok thanks, I'll give that a try tomorrow.
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Yeah f2 is doing nothing. I've tried it connected, disconnected and all kinds of different ways. Nothing is happening.
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Cheers I'll try it this afternoon after work.
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It's in mph.
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I just subtract 14.7 from the map value and it works out. After a while it gets easy.
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I'm trying to change the name of the dlp input per the first post in the thread, however pressing F2 does nothing. Is there another way to change the name?
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On 7/27/2018 at 9:20 AM, Roland@pcmtec said:
Ok so lets confirm all of these are set and give it another go as lots of people have full open loop working on the FG.
P1227 MIL Lamp
auF1328 P1227 Fault Filter set it to 255
auF1193 P1227 Fault Filter set it to 255
Over/Under boost
auF1898 Open Loop duty cycle for underboost set it to something like 40%
auF1679/auF3184 Underboost Threshold - set entire table to something like 40-100
auF0296 Overboost required for open loop - set this to something like -40 to -100
PID Gain tables
auF0286 Boost Integral Gain - set entire table to 0
auF0287 Boost Proportional Gain - set entire table to 0
Zero all of these gains
auF16555, auF16567, auF16552, auF16519, auF16453, auF0289, auF0288
For good measure set auF16551 TPS vs RPM scaler to 1.0 everywhere other than idle.
edit: From your file it looks like you might be triggering P1227 causing your 0% duty cycle.
I've done this before and it worked fine with the stock wg setup.
Today I hooked up my 4 port ex wg into a 3 port solenoid config through the stock solenoid, with boost to the top and bottom of the gate and bleeding off the top.
I got it in open loop and inverted the OL wgdc table to make it work. I did a couple of other things differently given that it wants to be inverted.
With the table at 100% duty it only made 10psi, even though I have 17psi of spring in there. I then tried the table at 80% and it made roughly 25psi up top, but a bit less lower in the rev range. I didn't go further as I'm on 98oct atm, but will revisit it when I switch back to e85 and send it to the moon again.
Is there a way to set up the wg like this and have the boost control work like usual? I think if you had a solenoid that works inversely to the stock solenoid it would work. I also read that hoontune figured something out and have a solenoid etc for sale, although the post was 3 years old.
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So another update...
This morning I hooked up a 35psi boost gauge and with the desired boost at 25, it was running over 35psi. With the desired boost at 26 it went over 40psi.
I came home, removed the signal pickup for the knock box from the boost sensor signal wire and it seemed to fix it. It was a needle pickup so maybe it had earthed out on something? Just by removing that, the car went back down to 25psi, albiet with funky wg control.
A few runs up and down the road to fix the wg duty etc and it seems to run 25psi most of the way up.
Since I had tuned it and scaled the injectors to suit the previous load it was seeing, everything will be rich af now. It's still got 60% inj duty with 10psi less boost, so it will need more dyno time.
Anyway, as always thanks for the help and hopefully this one can be put to bed once and for all.
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Yep no worries. This log has 2 pulls in it both of which were over 30psi, according to the dyno.
I'm using psi in the tune for the desired boost etc.
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On 2/14/2021 at 10:57 AM, Puffwagon said:
I have just noticed that in the log it shows 363 kpag and it converts to 260 kpa in the drop down.
The unit converter says it should show 463kpa when the log shows 363kpag.
On 2/14/2021 at 5:04 PM, Roland@pcmtec said:I'm not sure what the issue is here. Both statements make sense. KPag is simiply kPa + barometric (roughly 101.325 kPa)
The log shows 361kpag/260kpa/37.75psi.
If you put 361kpag into the unit converter it will convert it to 460kpa. The log converts 361kpag to 260kpa.
If I take the 360kpag number, it converts to 52.2psig. If we subtract the barometric pressure of 14.7psi from it, it converts to 37.51psi. The dyno was showing roughly 35psi.
It appears there is an issue with the logger. I think that the psi figure in the logger is actually supposed to be the psig figure. It never used to be like that, as I'd have to subtract the baro from the psi figure in the log to get my actual boost pressure. It's also listed as manifold absolute pressure which means it includes the barometric pressure in the figures, unless listed as "kpag" for example.
Whether what I've described is 100% correct or there is something else happening behind the scenes, there is something happening now that wasn't before.
I can put up some pics if needed to show that this is happening but I think I laid it out fairly clearly.
Haha I've also had someone else verify that I'm not just imagining things
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Nothing personal mate, just putting my experience out there.
Just go through the thread, follow the steps and you should have it sorted.
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Last time this was brought up I helped a guy. He sent me files claiming they were licensed when they in fact weren't licensed, only renamed. He also asked me to license them and send them to him so he could pay me later.
After stuffing around for over 2 hours going through his files, modifying them, and replying to pm's, he stopped replying and needless to say didn't send the money he offered.
Just a heads up to other forum members that get asked for tuning work.
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Update:
It made 22psi with desired boost of 20 the other day, after I lowered the tmap voltage switchover to 3.5V.
Today I changed only the desired boost to 25 psi and it ran up to 32 psi.
I've also just checked logs and can confirm that the manifold absolute pressure in the log used to read up to and over 47psi and now it is pegged at 38psi. There is still something going on that shouldn't be. I'll try swapping out the tmap and see if that changes anything.
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Had a quick check of the values with the engine off.
The tmap was saying 14.56psi which is about right here. We're at sea level.
The boost sensor was showing minus 1.5psi with my scaling and plus 0.66psi with Stathi's scaling.
I left his scaling in there for now and will get further into it when I've got time.
Idle Fluctuating
in Diagnostics
Posted
Hi Scott, I'll get it sent through this evening.