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Everything posted by Puffwagon

  1. Yes that's on 98. I bought the Knock Monitor Pro V3 Elite straight through the website https://tunernerd.com/
  2. Ok a good result today. I got the knock detection working through the headphones as well as the Tuner Nerd software. There was no knock at all running up and down the road at 19psi and 13-14 degrees of timing. I'm glad I got it sorted so I can take better care of my engine.
  3. Cheers man. Yerp I'll get my knock ears out this weekend and make them work. They wouldn't work properly with my laptop for whatever reason, likely old etc, but I can use the missus laptop now. I've got tuner nerd with 2 sensors.
  4. Haha quoting myself here, I got the car on the dyno this afternoon with the exhaust pulled off and it looked like it showed a bit of knock in the graph at 13-14 degrees of timing and 22psi on 98 octane from ampol. It might have been fine with BP 98 and maybe not. It made 409awkw for the record. A nice car. Updooted for shiny 😁
  5. Yeah I wouldn't want to risk going further than you have already with the thinner rods. It's also the wrong weather to try and push cars on the dyno!
  6. On the dyno I got 17 degrees into my built motor at 19psi and 98 octane before it showed any detonation. There was no knock at 16 degrees however I took it down to 13-14 degrees and it went from 370awkw to 350awkw. I'll be doing some more e85 testing on the dyno soon so I'll see how much it can take before it stops making power.
  7. I've seen a stock na zf bf gearbox last in a falcon at 400rwkw+ for at least 18 months before it started to slip on the shift. It'd be fine in a much lighter car like a r31. I've swapped between vss and abs for speed source in a bf turbo tune and it made frig all difference. Take from that what you will, I ain't no expert.
  8. Mine does a similar thing with cruise control on, but not all the time. I noticed that the afr was changing outside of the usual open/closed loop parameters so I wondered if it was going in and out of open/closed loop. The open loop tps transition/rpm (auF0523) might be a thing to check if it has been adjusted. I haven't checked to see if it is my issue but it's something to look at.
  9. It's happening at 5800rpm which, without seeing the tune file, tells me it is likely starting to hit the rev limiter and closing the throttle. What do you want it to do instead?
  10. I have a different version but I could still see the parameters with only the enthusiast box checked. Does this mean that it is readable but not writable?
  11. Should be fine. You can still view the desired boost and wgdc maps with the enthusiast version, even when changed to different axis. Mine has boost by gear and I can see all that stuff with just the enthusiast option checked.
  12. This is the scalar description; Live Tune Changing (Engine Running Tune Edit) I wonder what happens if you enable it?
  13. Haha I'm glad it's sorted. It happened a number of years ago so I didn't even think to mention my experience, until Rolls brought up the faulty NB.
  14. I've had this exact issue with the trims intermittently adding fuel at startup and also the needing to rev or drive it after it started, to fix the issue. Turns out I had melted narrow band wiring from a 4 inch dump install. I did replace the NB sensor with another second hand unit as part of the diagnosing process so that may have had something to do with it.
  15. I saw this happen intermittently but restarting the program seemed to fix it.
  16. My suggestion is to use knock ears and adjust from there. You can switch them off but you need to work out for yourself if it's the right thing to do. Needless to say, don't just switch them off because someone said it'll be fine. It might be fine and it might not be.
  17. Open PCMTec and type in "knock sensitivity" into the search bar and it'll come up. The enthusiast version has the sensitivity tables and the professional version has the knock window variables as well. In my experience you don't want to reduce the numbers in the tables by more than 20% otherwise the knock sensors won't work. You can work out what the safe numbers are yourself if you are inclined, by using knock ears, logging and spending the time to dial the tables in entirely. In this regard it's similar to dialing in cam timing. You need to have free dyno time and know how to do it
  18. Almost every wideband is going to output a 0 to 5 volt signal. Usually it is on a spare wire that isn't connected to the wb gauge. You connect this wire to the DLP8, which in turn is connected to your computer via USB. You can configure PCMTec to output a data channel based on whatever signal the DLP8 is seeing. So it goes; wideband=>DLP=>USB/PCMTec The first post in the thread shows you how to set it up. Have a read of this for what the DLP8 can do and how it works: https://www.dlpdesign.com/usb/dlp-io8-ds-v17.pdf
  19. Ok thanks for the info gents. There seems to be some conflicting views on this which don't help matters. As long as we have the correct info, it doesn't matter where it comes from.
  20. I feel like I'm missing something here. I have flashed both pcm and tcm just a couple of days ago with the reset adaptive flag checked (it's always checked and has been flashed dozens of times), and the car is driving fine with no perceivable difference in the shifts and operation, unless of course a transmission function has been updated. I haven't changed ZF03182 however and I don't think I will, unless I want to find out first hand if there is a difference between that and the reset adaptive function. There is this... Then there is this...
  21. I'll post some more info tomorrow as it's hectic around here in the evenings with dinner making and kids etc and I can't really escape to the car lol.
  22. If clicking the adaptive reset clears the box learning after flashing, it would have issues until it re-learned the clutch wear wouldn't it?
  23. Roland explained it differently in the thread that I linked. I'm not gonna bother quoting a bunch of stuff. Have a look and tell me what your thoughts are.
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