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Puffwagon

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Everything posted by Puffwagon

  1. Seems reasonable 😁 Looking forward to seeing what you guys have cooked up.
  2. How long ya reckon Roland? Also how is the tuning course coming along?
  3. This one time I had my knock sensors unplugged but forgot to switch them off in the tune. As such the tune was pulling the max amount of timing once it got on boost. Anyhow not sure if that's useful or not but mebbe you have an unplugged sensor or one is stuffed.
  4. Just use your stock timing map and switch off the knock sensors for a good starting point for E85 tuning. When you want to add timing you just highlight 1.0 load to max load at every rpm point and add it there. This makes it easy to remember and also is where it starts getting into boost. Start with a couple of degrees and see how that goes. As far as afr goes you can go plenty lean if you want. I usually aim for 0.82 to 0.84 lambda on E85 as it makes a fair bit more power there than running it at 0.8 lambda. It really depends on how you drive and the weather conditions etc. For a quick hit every now and then in the cooler months, run it leaner cos it'll be fine. Middle of summer and doing a circuit day, you'll want to have it at 0.8 or so to help it cool down. Even if you're tuning and see it go to 13:1 it'll be completely fine to stay in it to log the run, and then add a bit of fuel afterwards. You'll see it lose power on the dyno if you lean it out too much, but that is usually mid 13's so it's clear that more fuel is needed to keep things happy power wise, and also happy heat wise for the engine internals etc.
  5. You are gonna cook your setup running 0 degrees of timing, don't do that. On E85 at 17psi you'll find your max power is close to 18 degrees of timing but you need to verify it on the dyno. I run 18.5 degrees on E85 making a touch over 700awkw at 31psi. This is a built motor obviously. Don't go crazy with timing, you can't just add more to make more power, it doesn't work like that. It'll stop making power before it knocks but it will stress the motor a lot more if you keep adding timing. It'll chuck the rods out if you go there. Maybe go back to 12psi and start from there, as it'll pull a lot harder than it is now with the correct timing in it.
  6. I did this today and the car still kicked down from 4th to 2nd on the dyno.
  7. Vct works without the oil pressure switch connected.
  8. Decel doesn't matter, so just leave it as is and don't worry about it.
  9. I've got an auto and use rolling antilag all the time. I use it to launch the car too. I don't use a rev limiter at all, I use -20 timing in the launch tune after the rpm I want it to activate ie; 2250rpm onwards, for launching on a stock converter, and set the entire fuel map in the launch tune to 0.75 lambda. I've set my desired boost to 17psi and the wg table to whatever will be close to 17psi. It will cut the boost after 17psi according the the over/underboost settings so either import them to the launch tune or adjust your launch tune desired boost accordingly. It can push through these setting at wot but not much and spools an aeroflow 76mm turbo very quickly when rolling. It can make a metric fucktonne of boost against the converter/footbrake/handbrake with a 66mm garrett so be aware that it can do this.
  10. The exhaust cam shuts the valve at 7 degrees atdc, tho that'll depend on the cam gear setting, so I spose it might be a bit more than 2000rpm. I'll work it out 😁
  11. Ah ok so basically under 2000rpm or so and then the rest should be ok? I'll be trying it out later in the week so will report how I went.
  12. Hi I'm looking to use this method with locked vct, large cams and up to 40psi of boost. Given that there are only 6 rows for the Y axis, am I to scale the Y axis in 10psi increments ie; 0 to 50psi ? I noticed that there are 8 cells when you go to change the axis values. Also wondering which tables will reference the off boost driving etc. Any help is appreciated 😁
  13. There are no training guides for workshop edition owners. For the most part they already know how to tune so don't need training. Support is generally limited to technical issues, although there have been numerous write-ups in the forum that are extremely helpful and would be a reason shops want it kept private. If you want to learn how to tune you need to understand how everything works and that's years of mechanical knowledge right there. Then there is the software specific side of it which is fairly easy to work out when you've done it before. If your car is already tuned then start by understanding the boost control. Turn it down rather than up and see how the tables interact with each other and the vehicle. There is a write-up that explains boost control so there's that. Perhaps before that, do plenty of road logging and see what the car is doing. There is no shortcut to the years of experience you need to understand and apply tuning in a proper manner. Get reading mate, do plenty of logging, make small changes so nothing goes bang and be prepared to spend a lot of time learning. You can also post a question on the forum if you want to know something specific, like what does such and such parameter do. So yerp there it is, ya might pick it up quick and it might go to the too hard basket. Good luck 😁
  14. Another way of learning how to tune is to download a bunch of aftermarket ecu manuals and have a read. I learnt a fair bit from the haltech e11v2 manual back in the day.
  15. Well we all start somewhere don't we... This is a simple way of looking at it; Think of the slope numbers as how big the ecu thinks the injector is. For the sake of making it easy, lets assume both slopes are the same number. If you make them 100 the ecu will run an afr of 14.7 for example. It wont actually be that afr but lets just say it is. If we make the slope number smaller, the ecu thinks the injector is smaller and will open the injector for longer which will run richer. So there is one way of thinking about how the size of the slopes work. The reason there are 2 slopes, hi and lo, is because the injector doesn't flow a linear amount of fuel when it is only open for a short amount of time. Lets just say it flows 1mL when it is open for 1ms. It would make sense that it would flow 2mL for 2 ms and 10mL for 10ms right? The injector doesn't actually flow like that. It is kinda wonky and the first 1ms to 2ms doesn't flow the same, so that area gets a low slope number. The reason it's called the low slope isn't because the number is smaller, it's because it is the start of the slope. Ideally we would have just one slope number but until we have injectors that flow the same from start to finish we have to break them up (get it?!? break point?!?) so we get the right amount of fuel at idle as well as normal driving. All injectors are different which is why we have different break points to change where the slopes swap. We have a breakpoint number which tells the ecu when to swap from the low slope to the high slope. That means when there is enough fuel demand to get past the wonky part (usually just after idle) it'll swap from the low slope number to the high slope number. Here's a couple of pictures to understand the wonky part of the slope
  16. I've had a similar issue where the cams wouldn't respond at all and were locked at -10. I swapped the solenoids to no avail and the fix for me was swapping the phasers/gears.
  17. Hi Scott, I'll get it sent through this evening.
  18. I'm sure my personal one is good enough to signal a leanout. I use the dyno for tuning 99% of the time nowadays and 6 new ngk sensors turned up last week for the dyno, so at least one of them should be ok 😉 I'm all for logging everything when it's called for, but in the case of someone doing the most basic road tuning ie: sub 250rwkw per this thread, logging fuel pressure is a waste of money imo. If we move the goal posts to shop tuning then it starts a new conversation that is better suited for another thread 😁
  19. I'm out shopping but will reply later 😁
  20. Yeah mate it all comes down to how they are treated. I've put over 900awhp and 1500awnm though my stock turbo zf before it slipped but I also treat it as well as it can be. Currently no in gear slippage at 800awhp 😉 In saying that you can't shift it at that power level and obviously will have a much shorter lifespan than usual. Strong disagree. You don't need to log fuel pressure on most lightly modded cars. It'll show up on the wideband if you know what you are looking for. Yerp. No one wants to share their failures and making power once on a dyno doesn't prove how stout a motor is. Blowing up 4 motors in a month just points to someone not knowing what they are doing. That's not necessarily a limitation of the hardware as they can be tuned to not blow up. The box will be ok but if you aren't sympathetic to the parts they do wear out quicker. It's easy to get it tuned, but not so easy to learn how to tune. If you're going to do it yourself then get the wideband, knock detection system and whatever else you want and get into it. Make sure you look and understand what each change will accomplish before you make the change. You make a big boost or timing change change and hope for the best, you will end up in trouble. Don't expect it to be easy but if you tread carefully you should be ok. Hell you might blow it up in the first 5 minutes too 🤷‍♂️
  21. It wont blow up on the dyno as the operator can keep an eye on things. Even an experienced tuner can't watch everything on the road. A beginner will be flying blind unless they start with an already safely tuned car and start logging it. You won't know what you did but I'll tell you now to save you the effort. It'll have too much timing and will break a ring land and/or snap a rod cos there will be too much boost. Yeah nah that wont happen. I've seen first hand a na box take over 400rwkw and obviously all the torque that goes with that, for 18 months before it started slipping. Do that. You'll want to remove about 4 degrees of timing everywhere to start with and when you're logging you'll want to start with a total of 5 degrees at WOT. This should be a safe starting point but you'll need the knock ears to confirm it. Do that but don't worry about the fuel pressure logging at this stage. A walbro 255 will take car of everything you need for now. It might seem like fun now but you're going to have to put literally hundreds of hours into learning how to tune before you get to a reasonable level. You'll be there sitting on the side of the road, sweating your arse out making tuning changes and all the while hoping that you haven't pushed it too far for it to shit the bed on the next logging attempt. He sure can and you'll save yourself so much work and money you'll be miles ahead. Logging hardware aint cheap you know!
  22. I've tried to have a look but pcmtec has just ctd several times in a row.
  23. It would be handy to rename items as the afr/dlp8 input is listed as volts for now. I knew that the drivers are bundled with PCMTec and also in windows, however I was having the fail to connect issue and I resolved it with a driver reinstall.
  24. It's all online. Scroll to the bottom for the drivers https://www.dlpdesign.com/ Here's the instructions for the techedge http://wbo2.com/2j/default.htm
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