Puffwagon
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Posts posted by Puffwagon
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I typed "zf6 nominal slip time" into google and this was on the first page.
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Let's clear one thing up, the only stock file for your car is the one you pulled out of it before you started playing with it. While other files may be "stock" they are not the stock file for your car.
At this point my advice is to flash it back to stock. I don't have time to spend hours looking through tune files for what I consider to be an exercise in futility.
Last bit of helpful advice tho, there might be a strategy that you can just flash into it and have it work with the previous tuning updates I mentioned. That will be on you to find and experiment with.
Happy tuning 😁
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Ok I looked through the forum and saw your post in the vct thread so now it makes sense.
If you want a turbo strategy to work in an na car you'll need to turn off turbo logic in the pcm and adjust the tmap settings so they match your stock file. That should get it starting and running fairly normally.
Due to the turbo tune not being suitable for na you will want to swap a lot of spark and fuel tables along with making sure you have the na injector scaling in there. You may as well copy nearly everything over from the na file except turbo related stuff.
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You need to provide more info on what you want to achieve, what you've done so far and what if any mods are done to the car.
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You flashed a manual turbo strategy into an automatic na car. That won't work.
You should have backed up your stock file when you first read it. Flash that back in and you'll be sorted.
If you didn't, look at the tear tag, find the stock file, use the return to stock wizard to merge your license info with the stock file.
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Intellectual property. It's easy to work out yourself anyway.
Get to experimenting.
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Shift ramps are literally shift pressures. They dictate how much pressure is used on the shift. Line pressure is how much pressure is used to keep it clamped in gear after the shift.
You need to experiment. I'd start with a 10% increase in the positive pressure areas and take it from there.
The specifics are IP so that's all you get from me.
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Nah not yet, apparently life has to fuck me from as many angles as it can.
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Yeah nah but you can soften the trans up for normal driving. It doesn't need to shift hard while normal driving to live.
Maybe it's got something to do with smart charging and maybe you have the wrong alternator? I'm just guessing here so yerp, maybe someone else knows whats up. I'd tell you if I could.
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Yerp I got my kit specced to supply enough water meth to run 700awkw on 98.
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I've got a water meth kit (Aquamist HSF3) that I'm planning to install soon. It can output 5V when the tank is low, or it can invert the signal and switch from 5V constant to 0V when the tank is low.
So given that info, it seems I could just run a dual tune with a switch style input, run the fail safe wire to the rear O2 through a 10M ohm resistor and after tuning for the timing, extra fuel and extra boost, let er rip tater chip.
Anyhow that's my thoughts, anyone care to share their 2c?
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On 2/13/2022 at 5:49 AM, dat111 said:
Penrite BMV
This makes a box slip. I learnt the hard way when I used it.
Gulf western syn-ts is what I use and recommend.
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Which load axis?
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4 minutes ago, hjtrbo said:
Just putting it out there. If you have to "rape" the base fuel table to get fuelling in line then also the torque model will be out. Best to spend extra and buy DW or ID injectors with good data. Not a big deal I suppose if manual, but auto will need tweaks to get torque management / line & shift pressures back into line.
As far as I know the only thing that is affected by the base fuel table is the ignition timing due to spark lambda correction.
What transmission tables and torque tables are affected by changing the base fuel table?
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But yeah easiest way is to just fudge the base fuel table. It doesn't matter if the table says 0.7 λ and the wideband says 0.8 λ.
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auF0061 is "slope of MAP per AIRCHARGE BF", this is the one you want to change.
Here is the write up of how it all works.
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Yerp I've got a second sense when my fuel pressure goes low, it's happened so many times before. It's always a weird bit when it comes on boost then it runs out up top.
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Make sure you aren't running out of fuel pressure before you go chasing the tune.
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Just add it to the bottom line of the base table and adjust timing as needed. If you want you can add it to the sd table, in which case you can just highlight every cell from top to bottom at the rpm ranges you want to richen up, and lower the number by 5 or 10%.
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32 minutes ago, Roland@pcmtec said:
Can't beat destructive testing!
True that lol. I had a dead stock zf with just a tune and cooler handle 950awhp on the street! It eventually broke but lasted many months over 800awhp. The key to it lasting was not shifting it at WOT, just send it while in gear and backing off for shifts.
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Can't remember where it is off the top of my head.
I'll have a look in the morning for you.
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If the wideband is showing 14.7:1, the trims are active and the base map isn't at lambda 1, it isn't in open loop.
You can see in the log whether it is in open or closed loop.
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12 minutes ago, Stephe said:
I have read articles that advise to turn off the o2, and when happy with the fuel map, turn on the o2
This generic advice and while true for some ecus, it doesn't apply here. Do you have a copy of pcmtec so you can see how it works?
The base fuel map in a ford pcm is literally just lambda values. There is no need to disable closed loop to dial in the base fuel table in because you can just put whatever value you want in there and the fuel will automatically change itself...providing the rest of the tune is correct.
There are other reasons for disabling closed loop on a ford pcm but this is not one of them.
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There is a small table that controls when the car switches from closed to open loop.
By all means switch off both O2 sensors and see what happens
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HOWTO: Open Loop Boost Control (FG)
in Falcon HOWTO Guides
Posted
No it isn't, it is actually set up kinda arse about face. That lower line (98.889C) is when the intercooler is hot enough to cook an egg and the boost is basically 20psi. This is a safety row where you pull all of the boost out to mitigate the heat in the engine, not increase it! As unlikely as it is to get to 100c iat, if it did you'd kiss your motor goodbye unless it's on e85.
The wg duty table could be ok in open loop and also might be fine for closed loop. It depends on things and stuff.
Timing wise it's fine for 12psi on 98 so there is a positive thing.
This is as far as I'm gonna touch this one as imho it needs a full retune from stock due to the sheer amount of things that have been touched. Stuff has been switched off or out of range so you won't even know there's an issue until it's too late. It's not all bad but yeah, I would start from stock if I were to fix it.
Anyhow I could go on but I've gotta watch netflix with the wife. Good luck with it.