Puffwagon
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Posts posted by Puffwagon
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If you post the tune and logs along with some info about the car and mods, that'll give us a good starting place.
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To me it sounds like your plug gap might be too big, you're running it too rich and you don't have enough timing in it.
Pull the plugs and gap them first. Next lean it out to where it should be. After that add timing to where it should be.
If you have those things incorrect at the same time, it is nearly guaranteed to miss.
If having it tuned properly doesn't work and the plug gaps correct, look at replacing the coils.
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On 9/12/2022 at 10:14 AM, Whiteford said:
Seeking a non-invasive solution
Find a set of front wheels that match the back.
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Your thermostat is what keeps your engine at a steady temperature. Running e85 won't affect the operating temperature of a warmed up engine at cruise, if the coolant system is up to spec. It might take longer to intially warm up, but will still settle where the thermostat is set.
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I'm still waiting for my head to be done, when the car is back up and running I will give it a try. I would like to use it as a failsafe for when the water meth runs out.
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19 hours ago, Bill said:
idle airflow
Idle airflow is what needs to be changed more than likely.
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Nah not really, tis but a jest.
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Good ole hiddeous, just don't let him do up your harmonic balancer.
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Tuned an engine with the early style vct solenoids that couldn't control the cams with more than about 14psi of boost, after it had a valve spring upgrade.
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Haha yeah my only driving is to take the kids to school and back so I'm not too worried either 🤣
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16 minutes ago, abs351 said:
Just curious how did you guys go with 98 hitting $2.65 per ltr..?
The first thing I did to mitigate the rising fuel price is buy an Aquamist water meth kit designed to support 700awkw on 98 for my turbo Territory. I'll have the off boost and cruise economy of 98 with the power of E85.
Right now I daily a slightly modified 5 litre VN that gets an average of 14L/100km if I don't floor it. 98 is around $2 at the moment but I still give it hell cos life is too short not to floor it.
But yerp no doubt will be driving an electric car eventually.
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41 minutes ago, Mick said:
How do you rate the Tech Edge wideband?
I've got a Techedge 2J9, an Innovate LC-1 and have just purchased an Innovate ECB-1 that I haven't used yet.
The LC-1 is still going after 11 years although I haven't used it for a while. One of the leds in the gauge stopped working but last I checked the controller still worked. It only uses the older style LSU 4.2. Over the life of the wideband controller I only replaced the sensor once due to it being flooded.
I've owned the Techedge for about 5 years maybe and recently the heater controller in the unit is playing up. I have to power cycle it 4 or 5 times after starting the car before it works properly. I've replaced 3 or 4 sensors with the unit, one only lasted a few weeks. I don't know if this was the controllers fault or I had a faulty sensor. I also bought a digital gauge for the readout and haven't had an issue with it.
I know that only using one of each unit isn't much to go off but I bought another Innovate unit based of the longevity of the previous one. The ECB-1 also has other functions which is something I need.
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23 hours ago, gasxp said:
As you will see in the tune file i have 0 in the map
Post a picture of the table so people can see what you're talking about. I've opened the tune and had a look but not everyone will.
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Are you seeing it run on one line in the datalogger? Mine did that, although it's a turbo territory, and it was something that I had set up in the logger incorrectly.
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Ground offset is a thing. It can make a big difference when logging afr.
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The coils are physically different and as such you need to run an FG rocker cover to bolt the coils into. The FG coil plugs are different too so you will need to swap them over. This is all you have to do.
I've run FG coils with stock BF dwell times and they work fine. So far I've taken them out to 40psi and just over 700awkw like this, iirc the plugs were gapped to 0.5mm.
If you run into spark blowout issues then raise the dwell time slightly or use the FG parameters.
You will find the dwell times for the FG coils in an FG tune file. It looks like old mate already posted the dwell times in the first post but as usual, verify this for yourself.
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Just now, Dolan said:
Also I did fill it up properly. get it to 30-40c.
This is not how you fill it properly. If you let it warm up, the level will be too low. Ignore what the manual says and fill it from dead cold with the right fluid. I know this is the right way to do it from my experience and also the experience of other decades long qualified mechanics.
3 minutes ago, Dolan said:I feel like the trans is done in its current form, in my opinion.
Not to be rude mate but you don't know how to fill the trans properly and you don't know what type of fluid to use, how can you possibly know whether it's stuffed or not?
My advice is to rectify the fluid, set the level from dead cold as per my previous post and see if it comes back after some driving.
Anyhow you do you mate.
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Short version: You used the wrong farken oil and you didn't fill it up enough.
Long version: If it wasn't playing up before that work, the box may well be fine and there are a few things to check before swapping the transmission.
For starters use an oil that the zf is happy with, either genuine lifeguard or Gulf Western Syn-ts. I've had good results with Nulon as well.
Make sure that the filter is fitted properly, it is easy enough to forget the seal or use two seals when there should be one. If the filter falls into the pan there will be issues.
You will need to make 100% sure that there is enough oil in the box. Despite me telling plenty of people how to do it properly, I have always come across arguments that will result in a low oil condition. From dead cold and dead level, open the drain plug and start filling, when it comes out have someone start the engine, drop it into drive with the handbrake on and foot on the brake and continue filling until it comes out again. Pump a few more pumps into it and get the plug done up straight away. If you didn't do it like this, your oil level will be borderline low/ok and the box will more than likely play up. Even if you did it like this check the level again, as it's cheaper and easier to check the level than swapping the transmission.
I have personally seen an apparently stuffed box, slipping in gear, not shifting etc, come good after a filter and fluid change, with the correct amount of fluid in it.
Anyhow there's that, your box might be ok if you didn't let it slip too much. You might need to do a flush/couple of changes to get all of the penrite out of it.
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What's wrong with the turbo box?
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What's the difference between changing a spark value to zero and an adaptation value to zero?
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2 hours ago, Roland@pcmtec said:
Honestly I have no idea. We have never had a ZF to test with and relied on customer feedback which has been very polarising and not consistent. Personally I don't think it works but some people swear it does.
So can you reprogram the values to be 0? I'm not talking about resetting memory, but rather just changing the values.
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Had a look through the internet and found a file that describes "fn338" as, "Fuel - Open loop time delay for FN338(N), sec."
Might be worth changing it.
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35 minutes ago, Roland@pcmtec said:
Closed loop is blended with a delay timer. If you set the blend timer to 0 it should be instant.
I thought about that, but the stock setting is 0.1 seconds or something, and the log shows it changing to open loop in that time frame.
The tps was over 100 for about 3.5 seconds. If it was set to 60 per the previous post then it should be in open loop nearly all the time.
Backfires and Loss of Power with WOT
in Engine Tuning (AUS)
Posted
I had a quick look at the tune and log. A couple of issues with the log, it has no rpm reference and the cam timing appears not to be working. I would look into the cam timing first, the phasers (cam gear) shit themselves and show up in the log as not working. They don't necessarily make it miss but it does feel like hitting a wall, and in any case it should be working.
For future logs run the car up as described below.
To get a better idea of what it's doing, simulate a dyno run and it will show us what happens at WOT through the whole rev range. This means go WOT at 1500rpm and keep it there until redline, or in your case until it starts misfiring. Don't keep your foot flat when it's misfiring or you risk hurting the engine. You can do it in first or second gear so you don't go too fast. Be safe when doing this, if you can't do it safely get to a dyno where the environment can be controlled.