Puffwagon
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Posts posted by Puffwagon
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There is a parameter file for Bosch injectors that I posted a while back. It will get you in the ball park providing your reg is set to 4 bar.
As far as the boost control goes you can have a read in the how to section and that should get you sorted.
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0.9 will probably be too lean to make decent power. You want to aim for 0.8 to 0.85 on petrol in a boosted application. You will start losing power if you go richer than 0.8.
You can run a car lean and have it not knock by running less timing, but generally we run them richer with more timing.
If you wanted to find this out yourself, install an egt and see what happens with afr changes, and also see what happens to the knock threshold. Ideally this will be done on a dyno to measure the changes but you can extrapolate a fair bit without one.
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3 hours ago, dat111 said:
are knock ears a must or an option?
I got away with not using them for years cos I knew what to look out for. I use them now and for safety I'd recommend using them considering you are new to it.
3 hours ago, dat111 said:im going to keep timing about 7 degrees
Don't pick an arbitrary number, let the car tell you where it wants to be. Start low and work your way up. If get get a knock solution that has a graphical output then it will be very easy to spot where it starts to knock.
If you run low timing then boost control can be difficult as the engine will be flowing more exhaust gas through the turbo and in turn wanting to make more boost. It can spike on gear changes if the timing is too low on a shift but there are other things influencing the shift timing.
The car will feel like a slug if it is low on timing but this is something you will find out on your own eventually.
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I remember him saying that it doesn't reset the trans in a different post but maybe it changed along the way.
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That button doesn't reset the trans, it just clears the fuel trims.
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I reckon you could add the feature to the launch tune but you wouldn't want to accidentally hit the cruise button for too long while moving.
For that reason you might want to use the flex functionality as an on/off switch.
@Roland@pcmtec how many credits to add transbrake to the custom os?
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I've already been using 2.1 for a while, will it just be updated on the alpha release page?
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1 hour ago, Roland@pcmtec said:
Converting the PCM to a BF might be an option also.
Slightly off topic but sorta on topic...how would ya go getting an FG pcm and tcm into a BF so you get the hectic fuel cut on the shifts? Worth it if the trans was out?
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Direct injection rather than port injection helps with cylinder temps too.
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Yep they can make a couple of hundred rwkw at 14.7:1 afr if you don't adjust it.
If the timing is safe it won't detonate but it will introduce a lot of heat into the combustion chamber and surrounding areas. If you were towing for a long time with those unfavourable conditions, you would likely destroy your cat, o2 sensor and anything else that is close to the exhaust, which will be glowing red after a while.
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I opened a histogram and it showed the correct values for afr/dlp1 for a while then showed incorrect ones, lean. It was fine in the datalog, so just the numbers weren't lining up between them.
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Nah I didn't do anything else with it. I ended up running another wg spring and maxing the turbo out like that.
I had a wg reference line come off while messing around with it, made 45psi in the mid and broke a rocker arm as a result. If the motor wasn't built it would have broken a rod or piston too.
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Yeah sweet. The trans was stock with just a tune and a bigger oil cooler. It handled it fairly well and for a long time, all things considered. It recently broke the input shaft but should have it sorted in a few weeks.
There is a thread here where I fairly extensively document the build and progression from about 370awkw to 711awkw.
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Stathi does have a parameter file, maybe they just didn't have it on hand? Send them an email, let them know you bought it from them and they should sort you out. If you get stuck I'll give you the file they gave to me. It's not very hard to work out how to scale it so you can always figure that out and get it working the way you want.
It didn't blow my motor as it is built but it did break a rocker arm tho. I routinely run 35 to 40psi and so far haven't had many issues. I swapped out the mls head gasket for an athena gasket but apart from those 2 things the engine has been going strong for over a year now.
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Yeah mate I got it downloaded but I need to wait a while before I can use it cos my trans is cactus. Won't be long tho!
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Yeah you gotta have some overboost protection or you might just hit 45 in the mid...ask me how I know
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The datalogging shows 257kpa cos that's where the stock tmap maxes out. The tmap is the one in the manifold and the boost sensor is the one in the pipe. You only need to swap the boost sensor and then you can use the custom os to swap it at 3.5V or whatever.
Have you got a built motor? A stock one won't like 25psi very much.
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I'm happy to run (petrol scale) 12:1 to 12.3:1 up to about 30psi/600kw and try to get it at 12:1 above that. You make more power at 12.5:1 but repeated runs on the dyno or road isn't the best idea for cylinder temps. I would back out of a run if I saw 13:1 or a sustained period above 12.5:1.
Again there is a 10 to 20kw difference when running richer or leaner.
Road tuning should really be done conservatively and care should be taken with a stock motor when deciding how fast to ramp in the boost.
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You really need a dyno to figure out if you're getting more power or not.
You should be getting about 15 to 20rwkw per degree of timing and about 10 to 15rwkw per psi. It sounds like you are pretty much swapping your timing for boost and seeing no difference.
On E85 I ran about 17 degrees of timing at 25psi on a built motor with that turbo and it made 495awkw.
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What fuel is it on?
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4 hours ago, Roland@pcmtec said:
Histograms will be available in our 2.1 release which is due out soon.
How soon is soon and how excited out of ten should I be?
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Stab the pickup into the coil wire and use that instead, in my experience it works a lot better.
Also be careful sticking a probe into your map/boost sensor. I had issues with the boost sensor not reading properly causing it to run up to 15psi more than commanded.
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16 minutes ago, Roland@pcmtec said:
The issue is getting someone to give me access to their car
Don't you have a turbo falcon?
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That's pretty cool. I reckon I'll have to give it a try one day.
Flex fuel OS, Stoich parameter
in Engine Tuning (AUS)
Posted
I've changed the stoich value in the tune and it does diddly squat.