Puffwagon
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Posts posted by Puffwagon
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There isn't a split in the reg reference line? A single 525 with a relay feed should be fine at that power and boost level.
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Yeah getting it go go low enough is the issue you face with return restrictions.
If it will pull down to 3.5 bar with the vac line connected you're fine.
You can test the return limit now if you want by seeing how low it can go. Just bridge the fuel pump relay to keep the pump running with the engine off and turn the reg down until the gauge stops going down.
Low pressure at high load and WOT indicates a fuel supply issue, usually it's a blocked fuel filter or insufficient pump capacity.
Fwiw I've run several hundred kw more on a stock feed line.
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I don't know about the sniper bucket, I've only used the stock unit.
For the stock unit, the return system in the pot is one return restriction and another restriction is at the quick connect on the return line. If you look at the hole in the return connector, it is tiny.
I don't think a single 525 will warrant opening up the return line connector, but the only way to make sure is to at least have a gauge in the fuel reg and see what it does at idle.
I quickly went from 1x 460 to 1x 525 to 2x 525 with a fpr800 and I had already modded the pot from the outset. I only started further return mods and bigger reg when I fitted 2x pumps.
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1 hour ago, JMSMotorsport said:
What’s the consensus is that big enough lines? To make 450rwkw on E85
Stock feed line is fine.
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To explain the log, the first part is me setting up the equations for the fuel temp and ethanol percentage. Then the weird up and down bit is what the car has started doing the past couple of days as it warms up. I probably changed something but I'll check another day. After that you'll see the cam timing doing stuff, every time you see the wideband reset is obviously when I reflash it. The last two wot spikes in the log are everything back to normal, the previous spikes are with the cam offset changed.
Anyhow it's past beer o clock so yerp 🍻
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My car was idling at -30 overlap.
auF12259 made no change.
I changed auF11468 from -70 to -60 and the overlap changed from -30 to -20. I then changed it to -45 and the overlap was around 0 give or take.
It now idles very lumpy and also changed the idle trims in neutral from 1 to 0.87 and the drive idle trims are 0.98 with a medium choppy idle.
I had it going to -20 cam angle at wot before and now it goes to +15.
Interestingly enough the overlap has changed back to -30 at idle after about 300 seconds but still had the adjusted overlap at wot. Both wot tests were done in the driveway on the brake. It has leaned out quite a bit at wot.
I then put it back to stock, the idle stayed at -30, smooth idle, wot went to -20 and fuel returned.
I'll upload a log for shits and giggles.
I haven't tried the other parameters.
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I'll try logging those tables later and see if it shifts the offset
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There's a total of 5 holes in the front of the cams, one is used for the pin to locate the cam and the others to allow oil through the phaser. Likewise there are 5 holes in the vct phaser, one for the pin and the others for transfer of oil.
You could weld the vct pin locating hole shut and redrill it where you want it to change the base cam angle.
I probably won't do that unless I have no other options. I've made great progress with just the SD map and hopefully can do the rest with the other tables.
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I don't know how the cams are degreed compared to stock cams, Kelford would have the answer to that tho.
In regard to how lumpy the cams are, they were lumpy when they were locked at 00 but now that the vct is on there they don't sound any different to stock.
I appreciate you taking the time to post up this info, I'm sure I'll be able to put it to good use. Haha my matrix goggles are pretty good lol
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Haha the flat road works fine. Big cams, big turbo and locked converter means it doesn't come on boost in 6th until warp speed. Because I'm doing low load and low rpm I can hold it flat and the car hardly accelerates.
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That's exactly what I need to do. I was making it lean enough down low for part throttle driving and then I would do a WOT pull in 6th gear from 1500rpm to 2250rpm to check it and it would be miles too lean. Conversely I would adjust the fuel to be good at WOT and at the cam angle it used, then it would be pig rich at part throttle with the same cam angle. Even after the extra tuning today there was still a similar discrepancy happening when I would use medium to full throttle at low rpm.
I'll put it back into open loop and finish the fuel tuning off with that table and hopefully can nail it in a short amount of time. Haha now I just need a long hill to drive up 😂
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I've made my tables larger and have the cam timing in 5 degree increments from -20 up to +25, although it only goes up to about +15 when driving.
I spent a lot more time today fine tuning it and it's mostly good now. It still goes rich between 1000 and 1300rpm on decel, but re enabling closed loop O2 seems to be able to grab it before it gets crazy. Normal driving and cruise trims are 1 to 2% but it pulls up to 7% at low rpm decel.
Just wondering, if I stage a pump using the imrc switch point will that affect this table or use that table? My load is currently around 5.4 at WOT so having it go down to 1.3 might not be good.
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Just now, MemeMachine said:
Another thing that was noticed is this:
-18*C? Does this indicate anything? It stays -18*C the entire time?
Yeah nah no idea. Someone will know tho
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That's all you can do ay. Just keep at it until it's sorted.
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Haha fair enough. I had a quick squiz through the thread you linked and it seems I might have a light at the end of the tunnel.
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I've got it in open loop override at the moment, I'm sure it would be great in closed loop.
The fuel is stable when cruising slow but the act of closing and opening the throttle affects it massively while the cam timing doesn't really change.
I'll have a proper look at the thread tomorrow, it's been a long day.
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3 minutes ago, hjtrbo said:
Yeah, that's right in a shit spot. Most injectors won't go properly linear till 2-3ms. Can you lower fuel pressure and still have enough up top?
Haha yeah true that, here I was thinking I'm retarded and can't tune lol.
I'm at 4 bar now but my fpr gauge unscrewed the face inside it so I can't adjust it until I get a new one.
I'll get a new gauge and adjust after I crack the shits from tuning it.
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0.01%injdc, 0.55ms at idle.
There is 0 commanded overlap up to and including 150 ad count, it idles at 144 ad count...with 30 degrees overlap.
My tuning correction tables are load vs rpm so might not be that helpful.
I did notice that my interior light was flickering a bit and affecting the afr. I tried the headlights and it leaned out so there is probably some injector voltage values not correct.
There might also be something happening with the fuel heating up after a while cos I know that it gets farken hot with the 2 pumps going full bore all the time.
I've been sitting in the driveway working on it, looks like it just needed some more tuning for the most part but will see how it goes.
Anyhow the missus is sick of hearing about it so it's another reason I'm posting here and thinking out aloud.
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Hi folks, I've use this method with Kelford 218-C cams and locked VCT and it works great, the fuel does what it's told. The downside is locked VCT sucks balls on a barra with large cams.
I've just swapped back to the VCT phasers, however I have restricted the available movement in them so I don't end up with valve/piston clearance issues. I've also swapped back to cam angle style SD maps and have done a couple of hours road tuning. I have the WOT stuff sorted, normal driving acceleration sorted and 80/100/110kph cruise sorted, however I still have a bit to do on the super light load stuff such as 50kph cruise and decel.
Can anyone comment on whether I am wasting time adjusting the low load stuff as it seems to act like alpha-n tuning down there?! Perhaps I can adjust the cam timing enough at each rpm point under 2500rpm to create extra resolution for the fuel in the low load/rpm part of the SD map.
I'll continue persevering anyhow, I haven't put a lot of time into it yet but noticed it acting funny so thought I'd make a post about it. Any and all ideas/comments are welcome 😊
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I wouldn't connect the wires and power it up, that is a sure way to burn something out. You can stall it up in the driveway and see if it reads any voltage. The tune should be at 100% wgdc when performing that test. You can log the wgdc in the datalogger.
You can also drive the thing and see if changing the boost settings actually does anything.
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No that's the opposite of how it works.
Voltage is only there when asking for boost.
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Here's a tiny bit of help, the stock turbo boost control solenoid is open when powered off, aka gate pressure. You won't see a signal from it until the pcm sees underboost conditions or boost control conditions.
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I've compared a lot of other files and can't see anything in the usual areas. Doesn't mean I didn't miss something though.
Here is a BA turbo auto file for you to compare and change stuff if you need to.
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It's saying your commanded lambda is 0.95 to 0.97 at 3600rpm in most of the rpm spikes in the log. If this is your actual afr then it will have issues running that lean with boost added. Anything leaner than about 0.94 lambda on boost will make it misfire and fall on it's face.
You might just need to add some fuel to it.
Flex Fuel Tunning Issues
in Engine Tuning (AUS)
Posted
Yeah they usually have a plastic skeleton in them to hold their shape but I think it's only the expensive Holley socks that are the bees knees. I suppose it is possible that it's not able to draw enough fuel at wot.