Puffwagon
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Posts posted by Puffwagon
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On 2/7/2023 at 12:26 PM, Fiftycal13 said:
waiting on a turbosmart drop in reg as my "4 bar" reg wasn't actually 4bar.
A 4 bar reg will read approx 3.5 bar with the vacuum hooked up. If you know that your fuel pressure is out, there is no point trying to tune except to get the vehicle mobile, especially when you intend to change the reg/pressure down the track. It's a headfark at the best of times, even when you know what you're doing.
But if you don't want to wait etc, just mod the speed density down low. Lower numbers are richer, higher is leaner. Fwiw I would start by a global change of 25% lower from 750 to 2500rpm, reason being it uses the 250rpm column for starting so you don't want to start flooding it, also a global change of this amount to that rpm will likely be closer to what it needs. Alternatively you can log the cam angle vs rpm and just change those rows, it's not as hard as it seems.
Post the tune, a log taken from the actual tune, not a log from a different tune, any other actual data you have and I can have a look at some stage. There might be something that sticks out.
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No it wont be way out, just the timing will be, as well as other minor things, and the comp difference will mean frig all to speed density. Use a turbo speed density map as it is designed for it. You should only have to make minor changes to it. You said you don't have any knock so you should be in the ballpark there. You will want about 10 degrees of timing give or take at 10psi on an na engine. You mentioned your trims are out, this is likely from an injector scaling issue, if not then adjust the speed density slightly.
My turbo strategy has cylair disabled from factory. You can change the predicted torque if you like but realistically you can tune the car without changing it. I dunno if you have to have the desired boost table populated, try it with it at 0 and if it boost cuts then populate it with your approximate boost level. Also ensure the overboost (auF0296) number is set no higher than -5psi otherwise you'll have no boost safety.
Anyhow hopefully that clears up a couple of things. Ask some very specific questions for answers otherwise most of the time you may as well read the forum how to etc. At the worst you'll get an " I dunno" 🙃
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Either find a suitable strategy and flash the whole thing onto the pcm or tune a stock na file from scratch, making changes only where necessary.
On 2/6/2023 at 7:15 PM, Fiftycal13 said:I just can't see most workshops doing all this in there tunes or do they just relay on fuel trims?
There's many different levels of tuna and even workshops can be dodgy as fark. There is a process for tuning correctly, most of it is already listed in the how to sections. Failing that there is a manual to purchase from PCMTec that should get you into the ballpark.
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Downloaded a couple of Vector programs, brain hurt just looking at them
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Look at the tps ad count switchover to open loop. Halve the whole table to start with and adjust from there. This will be what's causing it to be lean down low when you're asking it to be rich. I've already discussed this on the forum, a quick search should show you the exact details.
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This is the answer to the question
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On 9/12/2022 at 12:40 PM, Roland@pcmtec said:We now have a manual for sale for workshop customers that covers this in reasonable detail, there is a PCM and a TCM manual which will guide you on how to tune a vehicle with basic modes to keep alive with good drivability up to the ~300rwkw markÂ
https://www.pcmtec.com/training
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Yep. You don't want it much leaner than 12.5:1 while stalling up which is the reason to have it that rich. You could just as easily put 0.81 or 0.85 in there. Be careful when stalling it up that you don't make all the boost and break the driveline. Making 5psi should be enough to get you on the road and able to tune further from there.
This chart will help a lot while you're learning, it's an afr conversion chart, if the link dies just google it again.
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On 12/29/2022 at 4:45 PM, Plumbs said:
@Bill found it and posted pic for anyone wanting scale their injectors ! Cheers .
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You would need to have a dlp and your wideband set up for me to be able to do much more. I emailed them ages ago about these injectors and I got this back. You might have some luck with that as well as using the injector dynamics spreadsheet. Here is the data landing page, your injectors are around 1370cc with the standard 4 bar reg.
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1: force open loop
2: change entire base fuel table to 0.8
3: adjust low slope until the car starts and idles at 11.8:1 afr
4: stall up the car in the drive way and adjust high slope until it stays at 11.8:1 when stalled up
This will get your slopes a lot closer to where they should be and the car will probably drive fine. Put it back into closed loop and put your base fuel table back to where it was. If it runs lean at wot, lower the high slope. If the idle trims are more than 5% adjust the low slope up or down a little bit.
This is a very basic yet effective way for the average person to get their car driving with unknown injector data.
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Most of the log is in closed loop, except for the very start and the very end. While in closed loop the stft appears to be eventually bottomed out at 0.7 lambda, then it quickly goes to 1.0 lambda and it stalls. You can see it changes into open loop at the same time, hence the change in commanded lambda and all of this points to your injector data being miles off.
The car should be idling with only a couple of percent trim, not 30%.
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No, there's no solenoids involved, the black wire is a sensor ground for the egate sensors and the blue wire is for pwm control from a egate controller/driver.
I recommend reading the manuals and data sheets for the black box and egate, so you can properly understand what the parts are and how they work.
https://www.turbosmart.com/product/blackbox-electronic-wastegate-controller/
https://www.turbosmart.com/product/gen-v-wg50-progate50-electronic-black/
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On 10/31/2022 at 1:05 PM, Roland@pcmtec said:
If you set auF16504 and auF0298 it will lock the desired boost and wastegate duty cycle at the values entered under all circumstances. Great for testing a wastegate. Make sure you don't leave it enabled!
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Do this with the wastegate not fitted to the car so you can see what it's going to do. You could trial it on the car if you preferred, however you need to know that the gate is going to do what you're expecting. The black box is programmable so you would want to set it up to work with the pcm ouput before any on car tuning.
While slowly adding to the duty sounds like a good idea, until we have data that shows otherwise, that approach only holds true for traditional boost referenced wastegates. You can't assume that the same approach will work straight out of the box with an egate and black box controller. Once you know the egate is being predictable then you would start with the boost tuning as per the write-ups in the how to section, with obvious changes to account for the egate.
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Guys it is an electronic wastegate controller, not a boost controller. The black box still needs a programmable electronic boost controller to control it, so it can in turn drive the electronic wastegate.
It supports a PWM input so can be used with a Falcon, however the boost control will still need to be set up to run the driver properly. Due to the linear and nearly instant response of an electronic wastegate, the boost control strategy in the pcm will look very different than normal.
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I would check out the multi fire at idle, although I reckoned it didn't affect it, maybe it does. It is set to 1200rpm from memory, set it to 500 and it should rule that out.
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Verify the ground is getting to the actual box. I have a feeling the pokey bit might break inside the plastic.
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It's the green wire
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The info is in the user manual for the controller
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Roland had posted about it a couple of weeks ago too. You literally search for open loop switch in the editor, take 2 seconds.
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Yes that table is the tps input for switching from closed loop to open loop, aka the base fuel table. There is also a switch that will force open loop. There is a flag (1 or 0) you can use in the log to see when it is in open or closed loop.
I'm already being told off for not watching tv with the missus so gotta go 🙃
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My advice is to go to a workshop, get the car checked over and professionally tuned.
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Get a giant farken bar aka a tire iron and bend the actuator bracket forward with everything still connected and on the car. It'll close the flap and you'll get all that low end power back you forgot about.
If that is too difficult for you, disconnect the actuator rod and use an adjustable spanner where the rod attaches (where your thumb is) to bend that part toward the back of the car. Make sure to remove the E clip before bending, you don't wanna hurt the actuator.
I've done both of these things at different times for different reasons and they both work a treat.
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Tl;Dr bend it back and send it
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Tell us what you know about boost control so we've got a starting point.
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Na plus Turbo thread
in Engine Tuning (AUS)
Posted
auF0060 looks to be the SD table in a BA Na tune.