Roland@pcmtec

It will probably fit up and go in, but the calibration will be different and you'll possible destroy it quite quickly with the extra torque. I have heard of people doing it in sedans, no idea how long it will last or how successful they were though.

Try these calibrations. They have "GTF" in the notes field, no guarantees they are though. The Ute/Sedan identifier may be incorrect as well but you can probably verify that by looking at the diff/gear ratios and comparing it to what they were released with. HAFH4CD 2012 Manual 5.0 Ute (?) HAFH4ED 2012 auto 5.0 Ute (?) HAFJ1K2 Unknown Sedan HAFJ2Y2 2014 Manual 5.0 Sedan

Running closed loop is much more time consuming to tune, as if you don't make the desires boost table match exactly what the open loop duty cycle table shows on the dyno you will end up with a horrible oscillating boost curve when you turn closed loop back on. For this reason most tuners just tune the car in open loop. If you want full closed loop boost control at 20psi the method is as follows. Tune the car in open loop and log the boost against rpm and temp. Set your desired boost table to match what is logged at that temperature and guestimate the other temperatures. Ultimately you want to do a dyno run for all conditions but this isn't possible without a temperature controlled dyno cell. Now reenable closed loop. If you have changed the turbo wastegate actuator or turbo you may need to fine tune the PID gains. This requires knowledge of tuning control systems. There are some good guides online. Even Wikipedia is quite good. Simple guide is if you are getting oscillation (and your desired matches what you see in open loop) decrease the proportional gain and also decrease integral. If you see that the boost never reaches target (undershot) increase the integral gain. The benefit of closed loop is you will get the same boost pressure on 5c and 40c weather. Same with low and high gears. Without it you will see less boost in the lower gears and if you hold it at peak torque in a tall gear you may overboost. This is especially true with the stock gt3582 turbo and actuator which is almost uncontrollable at peak torque and >18 psi.

Great! Which strategy did you end up finding was the gt?

It is only in workshop but I thought you had workshop?

There are about 900 strategies between 2002 and 2017 so chances are it isn't. The workshop version of the software has a full calibration list which you can compare certain things between however without the original catch code you will still be making an educated guess. We have listed several of the more common strategies in another thread if you want to compare against them.

How do you know HAFFBE2 is the 335? Can you show us the two spark maps from the compare? What is different?

I have no idea. This is all second hand information, I've never done it myself.

Not a trivial process. There are many different combinations. We couldn't tell you what to do. Also afaik the turbo and na zf are not the same mechanically, I believe the torque converter is different and they have less clutch packs.

Just found this out via another customer today. If you use the F6 file in a non F6 vehicle you will get a permanent low oil pressure lamp, this is as the loom is inverted in the F6, I believe this is something to do with the factory oil pressure guage that they run. To fix this fault you need to invert auF12646 and set it to 1. If it is set to 0 it will expect the wiring from an F6 to be present.

Yes but you won't be able to see that from the list, you'd have to manually open each calibration to check that. This is the figure I'm talking about. You can filter the list as well like excel to really narrow it down. Then sort by spark value (click the header to sort by it). The lowest values will be the FG Sprint, F6 etc If the F6 runs different injectors you could sort on low/high slope as well to determine which ones are running different injectors.

You can probably figure it out from the average spark value that we have listed, that will most likely be different and stand out.

Do you have a catch code for a BF F6 ? You can probably work it out from the calibration list in the software. It is under calibration tools -> show calibration list.

Didn't realise it was you Nigel! Were you looking to do it for them, or the customer was looking to purchase and do it themselves?

Depends. If the vehicle is the same model and all the modules match up it will probably work, no guarantees though. If the modules (ABS, BCM, etc) don't match up you might be stuck with a DSC/ABS fault or other items that don't work correctly. Eg if you flash a BA F6 into a BA XR6T you get a permanent low oil pressure light as the F6 ran a different oil pressure sensor. If you know the strategy/catch code of the BF F6 you could do this with professional. There is a list of common strategies here, no guarantees that they are completely compatible. Otherwise the workshop version of the software contains a full list of all ~900 strategies which you could go through to try and find the one you want. Remember that you need to license each OSID separately. https://forum.pcmtec.com/index.php?/topic/105-common-strategies-and-catchcodes/ Personally I would just take the car to one of the workshops and get it dyno tuned.

I mean loop the canbus wires. If you don't do that the canbus will be broken and nothing will work. You will still need to do everything else related with the swap. I can't tell you what is required there as it depends entirely on the vehicle. There are too many variables and differences to write a guide there. This post was just to help with this specific problem which has caused a few workshops to burn 2+ days diagnosing a swap that was partially completed by a customer

Had a few people get stuck with these an an FG ZF6 (maybe the same on BF, unconfirmed). If you transplant the entire engine bay, trans and dash loom from a 6 speed manual into your auto vehicle you will have a much easier time wiring wise. If you keep the auto loom and do all of this there is a modification that must be done (and probably others but definitely this one needs doing). Now that you don't have the auto transmission C14 etc will no longer have the canbus loop seen here between 915A and 915B and also the loop between 914A and 915B will be missing. You now need to create the canbus loop between these wires on the back of the plug as seen in the photos below. Without this the canbus circuit is open and your vehicle will not run. Conversions are a headache so if you have any more information on what is required please add to this thread.

Hi everyone. You might be seeing this error in the logs on startup the last few days. The editor will still work correctly however it will upload your log files each time you start it as a result. If you have slow internet this may slow down the editor at startup. There is an updated 0.75 available here which resolves this issue (no other changes). Make sure you are logged in if you can't see the link: https://www.pcmtec.com/downloads

Better than my skyline, I managed to fit the wrong intake manifold gasket and not even notice that it was wrong. Took me a while to figure that one out.

Personally I'd run it open loop if you want to get the idle better. Otherwise the overlap will induce a false lean reading which will eventually peg the LTFT at +25 and spit fuel out the pipe. Make sure you retune the overlap SD adder tables at high overlap as well to help the PCM have a better starting point.

Sometimes it is just the simple stuff! Definitely recommend a smoke machine if you work on boosted cars regularly.

Definitely recommend getting used to lambda readings, it makes it a lot easier to switch fuels without having to re-calculate in your head. Also worth remembering that a wideband measures oxygen, so if you run big camshafts with overlap you can read lean (due to oxygen in the exhaust) but still have fuel dripping out the exhaust pipe. So you have to use some educated guess work to know if what you are reading is actually what is going on inside the engine.

Maybe fouled plugs? I would check the long term airflow and fuel trims before and after also. The computer might be getting confused with the false lean idle and making it run excessively rich. Try turning off long term fuel trims and see what happens as an experiment.

There is more to it than that. Firstly you need pro to get the file in the first place. Also you need pro to flash the ZF. Then if you merge you need workshop as there will be thousands of parameters in workshop that you won't be able to see. You could just blindly flash the entire file with pro but you may run into diff/gear ratio issues if they aren't the same. Finally if you have modules that don't match you'll be stuck with a check engine light and non functioning ABS. If this was the case you might need Ford IDS to reprogram it. Definitely recommend you pay a workshop to do this for you. This sort of stuff is a headache to do which is why I doubt anyone will touch it for under $600

Here is how I diagnose a vac leak. Log spark then pull the PCV line off the rear left of the rocker cover. You should see the idle spark drop to 0 degrees to try and get the idle speed down. If not much happens and your idle spark is already very low (eg below 10 degrees) it indicates a vac leak. Idle spark will usually clip at -2 I believe.