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G6E Turbo stalling issue


Marto47

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G'day everyone, got a G6E Turbo, have just installed a bunch of new parts, I let it warm up once completed and drove home, i was about to pull into my driveway and the car decided to stall and wouldn't restart without holding the accelerator slightly and wouldn't idle by itself. I've got a copy of PCMTec and a tactrix cable, where should i start in trying to correct this?
new parts installed:

  • Flex plate bolt retainer
  • Pulsar 3584 gen 3 turbo
  • Yella terra billet flexplate
  • Boundary oil pump gears
  • Boundary oil pump backing plate 
  • ARP head studs 
  • Crow cams race valve springs 
  • Bosch 1250cc injectors (injectors aren’t installed currently)
  • Walbro 460 fuel pump (pump not installed currently)
  • Turbo side intake 
  • Throttle body elbow upgrade
  • Stage 2 intercooler kit
  • 4” turbo back exhaust
  • Genuine ford timing chain tensioner
  • Atomic timing chain kit
  • External wastegate with screamer

I've got a feeling its something to do with the 4" turbo back exhaust, but the tuner said it shouldn't be causing an issue with idle. Cheers!

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For the idle issues, could be that your O2 sensor is on the way out. In the first operating temp log it wasn't working properly, yet in the last drive log it started working properly after a time. It looks like the dump and intake is affecting the trims but not a huge amount. The reason it was stalling or idling low in the first log is because the trims weren't working properly and it was leaning out upon decel. There is no idle data in the log so wont comment upon idle air error, but given the tune is stock and the airflow has been increased it would have too much air for the idle to work optimally.

The tune is still showing that it has 2 O2 sensors connected and this usually isn't the case when you change the exhaust. You would remove the rear sensor and change the tune to reflect it. This could be why it's acting weird. At any rate you should remove the rear sensor if it has one or just unplug it and update the tune to reflect this.

The car will need a proper tune asap, you've changed the airflow quite a lot with the intake and exhaust, and having a larger turbo with an external gate, yet having stock boost control is far from ideal. You shouldn't drive it for very long without a tune, it won't hurt it off boost but you shouldn't try and boost it.

As for the tune being stock but missing parameters, this would be one for @Roland@pcmtec to have a crack at. I haven't seen it before so can't help there.

Anyhow there's my thoughts on it all, nothing too bad happening here, but a few issues to investigate and address.

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Thanks mate, trying to have a look to see where the o2 sensor isn't working in the log but cant figure out for the life of me how to do it. (guess I'm a noob with PCMTec) The 4" exhaust came with 2 bungs and i installed both o2's back into it, can I leave the downstream one in and just turn it off in the tune? or better off to remove it and put the bung back in? (Kept the bung for some unknown reason, so kind of glad I did now). And to disable it, would I just go into "O2 Rear Configuration type" and set it from "1" to "0"? wanting to get it running nicely without any issues before we trailer it to Adelaide for a tune, I live 300k's north of Adelaide and would much rather have it all sorted before we make the hike. Cheers again, really appreciate your help!

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Better to remove it and put the bung in. If you look up how a narrow band O2 sensor is supposed to work, you'll see what's happening in the logs. The stft doesn't exactly mirror the nb signal but it should move around a bit, having it stuck on 1.0 all the time in closed loop then occasionally going to 1.05 and back is not normal stft behaviour.

Yep you set it to 0 in the tune, sometimes you have to switch off the mil or dtc error in the tune as well, it's under DTC controls iirc. Pretty sure it used to be in misc, I can confirm it tomorrow.

If your taking it to get tuned I wouldn't worry too much about updating the tune, the tuner should go through everything when it's there. If they do see that the O2 sensor is stuffed, they'll be able to get one sorted for you fairly quickly.

Apart from that, make sure you have a set of new spark plugs gapped to 0.7mm fitted before you visit, a new fuel filter is a good idea and better yet if you can get new coils into it you'll have all the bases covered.

It's always good to have fresh engine oil and filter before a dyno session, you wouldn't want oil older than 5000km in it. You want to give your car the best chance of protection possible, as a dyno is fairly hard on the gear.

A full tank of fuel is another pre dyno thing to check off the list. You might be all over it anyway but it can't hurt for me to post the info, it might help someone one day.

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Hey mate, had a play around with it tonight when I finished work, removed the downstream sensor and set it to off in the tune and turned off the engine lights for it aswell, took it for a drive around the block again (off boost) and it went great, decided to venture out a little bit more and on the way back home it decided to stall on me once again. Had the datalog going to try see what was going on, and right before it stalled, i notice the  "VCT OVERLAP" shot up to 34.96 degrees, then it stalled. Could this be a reason for it? Maybe a faulty cam angle sensor or something like that? 

Log - drive and stall.teclog

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20 hours ago, Marto47 said:

Hey mate, had a play around with it tonight when I finished work, removed the downstream sensor and set it to off in the tune and turned off the engine lights for it aswell, took it for a drive around the block again (off boost) and it went great, decided to venture out a little bit more and on the way back home it decided to stall on me once again. Had the datalog going to try see what was going on, and right before it stalled, i notice the  "VCT OVERLAP" shot up to 34.96 degrees, then it stalled. Could this be a reason for it? Maybe a faulty cam angle sensor or something like that? 

Log - drive and stall.teclog 1.58 MB · 1 download

Hi Mate

the vct was prob going out of range to corect for the stall or drop in rpm.

while the O2 sensor is good info, cause it tells the car what's to do its not the whole picture. You need a wideband to be comparing the actual fueling. 

when its cold it adds more fuel. as puffy said you have increased airflow. so there is a chance you need to add fuel to the map - but without a wideband you wont know for sure. your o2 readings look normal, but your o2 could be inaccurate and it will be fracking everything.

as puffy said, needs a tune. 

 

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Datalog cam angle error. If it's more than a few degrees that is your culprit. Also excessively low spark timing at idle suggests an air leak. 

Check the simple stuff out first m also obviously do a DTC scan with Forscan. 

I haven't had a chance to check your logs so apologies if you have already tried this. 

If all of this is good then check your oil pressure. Low oil pressure to the head will cause the VCT to fail to control to setpoint. Heavy valve springs will exasperate this issue. If it is better when cold or with a thicker oil this leads credence to this theory. 

Also make sure your cams haven't skipped a tooth, this will make the VCT have you work harder. 

I'm not a mechanic so take everything I say with a grain of salt. 

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Hey Roland, as I've found out, "Cam Error" isn't apart of the professional version so am unable to check that. I do have Crow Cams race valvesprings which are rated up to 30psi boost supposedly. Could that be the issue? It's not so much a idle stalling problem anymore, more like when I'm driving the car and slow down for a speed bump or spoon drain, the cars idle just drops and stalls out as seen in the log. I've checked the cams alignment at TDC and everything is fine, Might pull the valve cover off and take another look. Also how can  i check oil pressure to the head? Just with an oil pressure gauge ? Cheers!

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