hjtrbo

Lol, I'd have the car to long to get everything right. Then have to charge $5 an hour to stay competitive with the big shops.

Tune was done by a shop. I'm just fixing it up as the e85 driveability side of it was no good as we came into winter. Overboost protection was disabled (nearly grenaded my motor when actuator failed) and boost sensor open circuit detection was disabled. Idle and in gear air flows were pegging the integrator. I have all fixed all that up, the ute drives really nice now. On a side note, once I got the idle air within +/-0.05lb/min for gas and e85 on the integrator from cold to hot (AC and fan off), and at each achievable (600-1300) rpm idle air cells (this takes weeks by the way), I was able to slowly return other tables that had been adjusted by him back to stock, such as lost fuel, pump shot, trans airflow, dashpot preposition and dashpot decay. Amazing how applying first principles will clean up a tune. Really happy with the ute, it's nearly fully dialled, next step is boost and timing. Brought some tuner nerd knock ears and a wideband. Will get it ballpark on the road then see if I can hire some dyno time off Staufi to finish off the top end.

Hmm. I can understand now why most professional tuners aren't interested in using someone else's tune as a base.

Hi, Just wondering why this would be disabled? Found it disabled when looking at a compare to a stock file. I'm presuming disabling this will stop the check engine light from turning on?

Sent them an enquiry. Would be good to know. Currently road tuning and am at timing and boost stage. If it's not always 85% but in that range you mentioned I'll add some unleaded in to drop it down to e70 and tune from there. Thanks.

The label on the bowser says "always 85% ethanol". Misleading. I'm going to get in touch with United to clarify. Thanks @jakka351 for the info. The bowser at Traralgon is better as it's been enhanced by Independent Motorsports according to another label.

Sorry should of added, gauge is displaying 80 - 81.

Hey all. Last 3 fills at different Uniteds (Yarragon, Traralgon & Hallam) I've noticed my sensor not displaying 85 anymore like it used when I last used e85 about 6 months ago. Anyone else noticed this? Or should I look at what's involved to re-calibrate my sensor?

Don't see why you cant. Instead of the ECU monitoring knock you'll be doing it manually.

PCMTEC sure is hard on old laptops. My battery will last 1.5 hours when data logging my Holden with HP. In the Falcon I'm lucky to get 40mins with PCMTEC. I bought one of those cheap 150W inverters from Supershit for $50 and can log all day now. Has saved me from having to bite the bullet and upgrade the old girl.

Bang Bang, Starts better than on 98. Lights off instantly at 12degC. Still a few very minor niggles to sort out but it's a winner. Have gained enough knowledge to tackle the inevitable revisit in winter when we get down to 0degC. Went with crank spark at 15deg for shits and giggles. Seemed to like it. 50.tec Main Idle Tables.xlsx

Ta, that's where it's heading. It was stock by the previous tuner with a small crank PIP table change. Have wound up the 0 column in the crank PIP multiplier and working crank lambda down 0.1 at a time each morning before work. Currently cranking at 0.5. Next tune for tomorrow has it at 0.4. Open loop for 45 seconds. Deleted all the cat spark warm up. Have a 200rpm cold crank adder and cold cells ect idle adder decaying away over 30 seconds. Idle air and dashpot is spot on. Can blip the throttle straight after starting with no hesitation and put it into drive and off I go straight away as well. No change needed to pump shot. I'm close.

Which one did you change? 100014 or 0117. BTW there is no need for me to change anything. It's all fine. Just curious. Got it to start at 10degC this morning. Progress is good.

Now that a night of sleep has taken place and the caffeine is running through me I realise how stupid that question was. Of course the fuel is scaled with the flex stoic parameter. Otherwise the fuel trims would be way out when going between the fuels. Idiot.

That's lining a few things up with what I'm seeing. Thanks. Got ya. Thanks Roland.

Hey, In HP there is this: and in PCMTEC the equivalent is this: I'm looking at a well behaved HPT e85 tune to get some pointers on getting my cold start better. It's quite impressive what he achieved without touching many tables at all. Obviously the stoich adjustment to 9.8:1 takes care of most of the fuel scaling in one hit. In PCMTEC I have this set still at 14.6:1 and it is not included in my flex parameters. Naturally, we have this for the flex configuration in the custom OS, auf100014 The question I have, does the above table scale the fuelling in the same way that adjusting auF0117 to 9.8:1 would if I was running a fixed e85 tune? I'm reading the e85 thread here for ideas and seeing some huge increases to crank fuel and crank fuel multiplier so I'm leaning towards that the fuel is not scaled with auF0117 like it would be if I was running a fixed e85 tune and dropped auF0117 to 9.8:1. Cheers.

Can help if your out near Warragul VIC. Just be a basic road tune to get you running safe. Would a need a proper tuner for the power runs.

Is putting it into manual mode not doing what you want? Look into shift table 27.

I just used the old school way to get trans slip. Created a math parameter input speed / current gear ratio - output speed. You can export your log to excel to make this with a lookup table based on current gear PID to get the gear ratio. There is likely a trans slip PID but I haven't looked for it yet. Also, see if there is any clutch purge things you can see. Won't be in front of the laptop for a few days so am flying blind. The symptons are pointing towards a piston / circuit that is not getting the fluid it needs first up and then is properly filled after the first actuation.

You really need an expert to chime in here and guide you. In lieu of that, happy to throw some random shit at it. Is it only the first shift of the drive (when cold) that does it? Clutch purge? Tangent, when tuning my 6L90 shift pressures I log trans slip. Very helpful to determine if my oncoming or off going clutch needed adjustment or overall shift pressure. In this case I just slowly bumped up shift pressure 5% at a time. Also logging the clutch solenoid currents could help you to spot some patterns. I would log those at high resolution. Logging those will give you insight into on-coming / off-going clutch relationship.

TQ_NET might be worth a look... Sorry man, no help here, but I wanted to wish you were in GM world, you'd have no problem getting sorted with the changes and / or direction that you need. Don't know what it is about Ford land but the guys that know the info rarely give it up. A great example of this is a reputable workshop I deal with has openly given me pointers on getting my HSV tune closer to optimum and allowed me into their tune. But when I try to move the conversation towards my XR6T, the lips go tight. Roland will shoot me for this next bit, hope he doesn't read this post... Back in the day HP Tuners had just enough to get the job done before PCMTEC came along and blew them out of the water. Long shot, but check out their forum. Also, grab their software (free) and a stock ZF strategy from their repository and check out some of the tables they mapped with regards to temperature just like Bill previously mentioned above. Whilst HP have nothing in the range of tables PCMTEC does, they only mapped the basics which sometimes can be a blessing as less can be more, you might get lucky. For example there are 3 tables that HP tuners has that relate to trans temp and shift pressure that might help. 1 of them you already mentioned (boost time) and Bill is on the right path For example, A clutch or 1-2 shift || HP tuners -> PCMTEC Boost Pressure || TCM41880 -> ZF00734 Boost Time || TCM41870 -> ZF01729 Upshift Offset || TCM41771 -> ZF01446

Yes please 😁

Righto. You're in a different league. Disregard everything I've said.

Is your box properly built or just rebuilt OEM? That will change things as a properly built box likely has extra clutches and different clearances etc so will require tuning by an expert. If just an OEM rebuild then by all means take it back. A stock strategy on a stock box should not have issues between cold and hot. Back in the day when the car was new, it would have gone back to the dealer as a warranty claim for this behavior.

Slips when cold but not warm. Something is mechanically wrong. I'd be willing to put a pineapple on it being your valve body to case seals. Can be changed at home, under 2 hours to get done. https://mjproducts.com.au/shop/landrover-zf-6hp26-genuine-valve-body-seals-plus-adapter-seal-block-and-mechatronic-plug/ https://mjproducts.com.au/shop/ford-non-genuine-zf-6hp26-6-spd-steel-pan-conversion-kit-10-litres-of-oil/