hjtrbo

I really am poor at writing things in a way that gets across what I'm trying to mean. I'm sorry everyone. Please put up with me. It happened in another thread I wrote in the other day too. Thanks Rolls, sums it up nicely.

The load axis won't be accurate

Just putting it out there. If you have to "rape" the base fuel table to get fuelling in line then also the torque model will be out. Best to spend extra and buy DW or ID injectors with good data. Not a big deal I suppose if manual, but auto will need tweaks to get torque management / line & shift pressures back into line.

What I'm thinking out loud is if you can monitor the 3 adaption phase values and know the maximum upper adaption range, then that can guide you as to what areas to increase. Assuming box is sound, but needs a bit of help to hold back 400+rwkw on radials.

If you log eds currents you'll see this pattern. Not needed for a standard box but the built boxes out there will need to adjust these things.

It's inferred.

Gave me a good chuckle that line.

Back to his problem. His sensor reads 96. The dyno read 102. That needs to be fixed. The sensor he purchased needs to be checked with a mityvac and the data confirmed with TI.

Yes I'm aware of how it works. Not able to write it down well.

Yes

The 100 - 102kPa you mention in the scanner is absolute pressure. 2 Bar MAP = Absolute pressure 0 -> 200kPa 2 Bar Boost = Gauge Pressure -100 -> 100kPa

Ring Ti to double check the data. If it's correct you have 2 choices, re-cal with a mityvac to find offset / volts or return for a new sensor or get a refund and buy genuine.

Needs a re-cal. Have you got access to a mityvac? Or double check with TI support.

What does the local weather station say?

When you log currently, does 6th line pressure match up with what is in the tune? Reason I ask is trying to ascertain if it's your frictions that are fried or you may have a cracked piston / leaking seal etc. If it's just fried frictions and you already hitting commanded pressure (check your log) then you might get lucky. But if you have a split piston / leaking seal etc and it can't even hit commanded pressure now then I don't think you will have much luck. Nothing to lose, give it a go man. On a side note, even though it sux your box needs a rebuild, you are lucky in that you can make all kinds of random adjustments to see what it does without caring if it destroys itself. I'd take this opportunity to learn as much as you can about the ZF. Can I borrow your car for a month

Sorry fellas for chiming in, just wondering what throttle position fraction is? Is it 0-1 = 0-100%TPS

If I have utilised the single VIN license, then sell the car and buy another to play with, can I buy 10 more credits and kick the old VIN off the license so I can put the new one on it and tune it?

lol. Independent Motorsports do a circa 460awkw package. That will find it out for sure!

Not sure which engine that tank got. It was mated to a ZF so that leans me towards the better bottom end. If no one else jumps in you'll have to do some searching.

@jakka351 advice is where I would go next. Hook up a decent scanner (ala PCMTEC) and see what they are doing. Not a job for the faint hearted...

Ah I see. Sometimes you can get lucky choosing different Ford models. OBD mode 1 will only ever give a very basic set of PIDs. I can see you need more detailed information to construct your own messages. I'm not able to help with that. All the best.

Are you iphone or android? If android pay the few $ and get car scanner pro and a shitty bluetooth OBD dongle from Kogan. This is what I use on my FG XR6T when the laptop is not in the car. Works fine. Edit: Ignore the readings, I had to put the app into demo mode to get a screenshot as I was not connected to the car.

Negative, BA and Mk1 BF XR6 Turbo have the poor mans bottom end (rods). BF Mk2 and up is what you want. Very simply, BA and Mk 1 BF max 300rwkw Mk2 BF, FG, FG-X max 500rwkw

Hey, Yes, my ute is a FG Mk1 XR6 Turbo. I tried out a few different ZF strategies and settled on the FG Mk1 F6 strategy. There is a couple of different ways to achieve the same with regards to changing calibrations but in my case I had success grabbing the F6 strategy from the create stock wizard and just dumped the whole thing into the box. Then adjusted auF1692 to match the ZF cal value in table ZF03987. Trans stays in limp mode if the calibration values don't match. Then I read the whole tune out again from both PCM and TCM so I didn't have a whole bunch of red compare marks all over my ZF section of my tune.

A few tune updates. Fixed up the MIL light issue I spoke of in another thread. Pretty sure I've got all the dodgy shit out of this tune now. I sure would appreciate someone seeing if there is any gremlins / gotchas left in it that I haven't learned about yet.... Running so well on e85. 98 tune will need a touch up now as I've pulled tables out the flex tune. Just waiting for winter now to tackle the 0 deg e85 starts. Implemented boost by gear just to help out 1st gear a bit. Ute specs, F6 turbo with flapper mod, mandatory bolt ons / springs etc, standard dump, 3.5" single cell cat pipe splitting into 2 x 2.5" cat back. Flat 14psi on 98 and flat 16psi on e85. Looking to take it up to 19psi on the same timing, road tune. 72_In Car_e85 Solid Roll Back Point_98 Will Need A Touchup.tec